Member postings for Pete Rimmer

I lso use infra-red heaters. I have two single bar 2kw heaters but I only use one unless I'm painting. My workshop is all metal so I have one on magnetic bases and just plonk it on the ceiling and point it wherever I want it.

The beauty of infra-red is that it warms everything it shines on so the heat is not lost as quickly as a convector heater.

True that, but I figured that if the single soft-start fet that was on the grinder originally managed without a heatsink then maybe these would too :D

Truth is I could probably keep two of the three so if this other-design controller doesn't work out I'll buy a couple more and keep experimenting. I can keep two of the thhree sinks I think and cut one side off the third, it just makes situating the speed control pot a little more tricky. At the death of it I could simply 3d-print an extension housing and put it in there.

On the other hand, my fully insulated workshop has no ventilation whatever and I don't suffer any rusting issues.

The main thing to do is reduce the temperature differential to a minimum. If you can't do that, do your best and stay ventilated.

Well, I ended up junking the soft start and bought a couple of cheapo 15a speed controllers from Amazon (£13 for two). I stripped down my spare grinder and wired the motor into the speed controller, it ran perfectly at all speeds. The only problem was, the circuit board is much too large to fit inside the grinder housing.

So I removed the heat sinks and ran the test again, it still ran fine. After that I removed the terminal block and cut the board down to a size that would fit.

And this is where it all went wrong. I installed the board and hard-wired the connections by soldering. Somewhere along the way I messed up and when I test-ran the motor it blew the internal fuse in the battery.

No problem, I have two so I fitted a new fuse in the battery and wired in the second unit. That too worked perfectly so this time I carefully un-solderded the heat sinks and instead of hard-wiring the lead sI soldered the terminals I had removed from the first board onto the second one and once again wired in the motor. This time it did nothing until I turned up the speed pot at whic time it sprang into life at full speed and I found that using the speed controller pot had no effect.

So it seems that either I am cooking components whist removing the heat sinks (unlikely as I was un-doing the tab screw first) or when soldering tabs on the board, or it's simply that the first test without a heat sink was fine but the transistor was on it's way out already and the second test finished it off.

I'm not done yet, I have ordered a different style of speed contoller which hopefully I will be able to shoe-horn into the casing with much less modification.

Your roof will be leaking nearly all of the heat and have the biggest temperature differential. Insulate the underside of that and your rusting problems will be severely diminished.

Damn I never twigged that it was a resurrected thread

Joe,

Run this test on your Holbrook. This is from when I measured a South Bend 10L spindle. You should have no movement to see.

**LINK**

Congratulations Joe,

Define 'runout' - how are you measuring it? No Holbrook should have 4 tenths runout in the spindle and especially not a plain bearing machine. Also, spindle runout should not be adjustable in the bearing. Spindle PLAY, yes, but not runout.

You cannot go 'down' out of a cutter's tooth count range without risking interference. This is because as NDIY says each cutter is (should be) the correct shape for the lowest tooth count in its range and it cuts an excess of metal at the top of the tooth as you go 'up' through the cutter's normal range of teeth. The higher the tooth count the lesser the effect which is why the lower tooth count cutters cover a much smaller range of tooth counts.

Going out of the tooth count range 'downwards' will cause the cutter to not remove enough metal at the top of the teeth and so they will eventually (depending on how much clearance you are using normally) bind in the meshing gear.

Your no3 cutter is the correct form for 35 teeth but has a range of 19 teeth where the departure from form is considered acceptable (35T-54T). You want to go a further 18T outside of that range. The good news is that your gears won't bind but they may rattle and the tooth form will be very pointy at the top compared to how it should be. The only way you're going to know if this is acceptable to you is if you try.

You shouldn't because it will likely bind at the proper centre distance. If you like I could hob either or both of those gears for you 48DP 20PA.

Definitely not a South Bend. Even their first lathes had the half nut lever on the right and I can't think of any South Bend that didn't have double vee-ways for the apron. Plus the saddle would be much nicer rounded corners and matching the contours of the apron.

An idea utilised by SF writer E.E. 'Doc' Smith in one of his Skylark series trilogy if I recall. Could be 'Skylark three'?

The beam would not even need to describe a full circle merely swing through several divisions or perhaps even just a single division..

After my one visit to Redcar all I can say is they could do with more of the same!

At least it did fall over unlike the chimney at Milford Haven a couple of years ago. They blew the whole bottom out of the stack so all it did was drop a few metres and stayed mostly upright. Ended up using half a million quids worth of remote controlled demolition robot to knock the base out with the operator over a quarter of a mile away using binoculars, until it eventually went over

dragon-lng-cogen-stack-finally-demolished/.

Thanks John. I will have to look at getting one of those.

What interface does the probe plug into normally John, i.e. when not used with a CNC device?

Thanks Michael. I found out if I don't rate the video as safe you have to log in to view just in case it's unsafe for kids.

I've had a lot of fun doing this conversion this weeekend, had to make a spacer plate, a new 6mm dia 6 tooth drive pinion for the motor and matching 38 tooth plastic gear plus a load of measuring and fitting up but it's worth it to recover the use of an old Biax.

Oops my bad I didn't realise I had to give it an 'all audiences' rating. Should be OK now

Gah I have missed some posts because the page rolled over. Sorry if I have slighted anyone I will make any replies shorlty.

Here is the retro-fit copleted, as Not Done It Yet guessed it was a retro-fit for a dead power scraper:

**LINK**

1. It's cheap enough so it's no problem if it's a failure or if I ruin it and have to get another;

2. The pinion and bearing are a match for the original motor.

Variable speed is not a must-have. The original device was fixed speed.

If you want a super storng epoxy get some Araldite 2013. It's not metal filled (but then how many of those listed above are?) but it's got more grip than a Scotsman. I have just glued a tyre onto an elecric pallet truck wheel after finding out the supplier has them on back-order and it's been pulling 1.5ton loads about all week.

I got recommended to it by Brian Caddy as the best stuff to fix way liner (Turcite, Rulon etc) onto gib strips and ways. I had tried ordinary araldite and it just peeled off like a sticker.