Member postings for Pete Rimmer

You certainly shouldn't judge a person for having an immaculate workshop. Most of us would kill for this guy's setup and his work is incredible. On top of that Edvind's just the nicest guy and supremely modest. I spent the week with him on a hand-scraping course.

http://www.missiseipi.com/

I had one of those counter-weight grinders, though it's long gone now. The shaft is held one two tapered bronze bushes that need very careful adjustment. You seem to be missing the oil slinger cover that causes the oil to pool in the reservoir and run back down the gallery to the wick feeder.

They don't have oil seals as I recall, or at least mine didn't I can't help you with the disassembly of yours since it looks different to mine, but if it helps at all here is mine all stripped apart.

**LINK**

I would turn a centre to fit in the dividing head taper. I presume it's a morse taper 2 or 3? Turn it from 1" mild steel and then turn an arbor for your ratchet blank on the opposite end, with a thread for a retaining nut. and centre-drill the ends.

Mount your taper in the dividing head, load the blank onto it securing with the nut, hold the outboard end with the tailstock centre and now you can cut your ratchet with an end-mill to however many divisions you might want.

I have two of these, one filled with brake cleaner the other with wd40.

1l pump bottle

They are great for cleaning and de-greasing. The WD40 make for a great light duty de-greaser and cleaner and doesn't take the gloss off paint like the harsher brake cleaner does. The brake cleaner I use a lot when I have a scraping job to do. My local motor factor often has the brake cleaner on special offer, 4x5L for £36 or thereabouts.

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 30/09/2018 18:11:28

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 30/09/2018 18:12:50

Well done Christopher.

When you're cutting threads, especially when you're starting out and test-fitting the nut each time, keep an eye on the thread outside diameter. In many materials the OD will grow as you make the thread because the flat-topped threading tool raises a small burr that you might not notice. This will cause the nut to not fit even well after you have cut the full depth, the usual result being a very sloppy fit as you have found on your first attempt.

Make a few threading passes then check the OD with a caliper and you'll soon spot any problem. A quick swipe with a flat file as the part is turning will keep it all in check. Using lubricant can go a long way to avoiding it.

Pete.

Luckily, South Bend produced a very handy booklet that covers their range of lathes. Here it is on Steve Wells' brilliant South Bend resource:

http://www.wswells.com/data/howto/H-4.pdf

Everything South Bend:

http://www.wswells.com

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 28/09/2018 10:50:02

That dealer plate is common on Herbert-branded equipment since they were once one of the largest machinery manufacturer in the world so they had vast leverage on branding. If it was a machine actually produced by Herbert, it would be all over the castings instead of just on a rivet plate.

That's definitely a South Bend or a copy of one. Are there any more photos of it, or any evidence of what the ND stands for?

EDIT: Here you go Trevor, a discussion on the very same subject from 12 years ago. It's a shame that the photos are gone, it might possibly be the same lathe.

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/anyone-ever-heard-nd-lathe-144669/

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 27/09/2018 23:47:31

That's a South Bend 16", or a clone of one.

Hey George it might be worth mentioning your location. You might have someone here nearby who could pop round and steer you straight with your VFD.

I have three bench grinders and I have made new hubs for them to replace the two side plates you usually get. The hubs are drilled/reamed to fit the shaft as good as possible and turned to 1-1/4" OD with a fixed flange one side, to accept surface grinder wheels. Now not only do all the wheels run lovely and true (even on the cheap 6" grinder) but there's a much wider selection of easily-available wheels to choose from.

I thought I had posted this reply, but it didn't appear so I must have messed up,

Gunnar, before you go spending lots on new bearings check that your difficult adjustment isn't just the bearing inner being very tight on the spindle. I had a lathe that was like this and it was impossible to adjust the bearing due to the extreme stiction. I had to ease the fit a little with very fine emery, and after that the adjustment was easy to achieve.

If you pull the spindle out of the bearing and it creaks loudly then it's a good sign of the above.

If you fit a VFD you could change the pump motor for a single phase one. I did that. I also managed to find the star point and re-wire the windings for delta but it was a bit of task with he old insulation.

The post is missing it's ring(s). The ring slides over the body with the cutting tool on top. When you clamp the tool with the top screw, it also pulls up on the tee clamping it to the underside of the slot.

Mark you should mount your chuck to the backplate so that there is no runout on the body of the chuck, be that by turning a register on the backplate or by nipping up the bolts and bumping it into place using a dial gauge to check then tightening it up once you're satisfied. The chuck body has considerable mass and any runout will cause an imbalance when run at speed, and the more the imbalace the greater chance it will show up in the finish.

As Mike Poole rightly says, runout is a fact of life for a 3-jaw - the better and newer the chuck the less you'll have but they all wear with use.

Yes of course. That's not to say I wouldn't check over any chuck I bought - they all get stripped down but the register does nothing to add to the connection between the backplate and the chuck except ease the process of centering the chuck - all the load is carried by the friction between the faces created by the clamping bolts.

The loads on a lathe chuck are a lot less than people imagine. Two of my lathes have the chuck fitted to the spindle with no bolts at all.

It's you're right to have your own opinion, but what do you call excessive forces? Three m8 bolts clamping a chuck to a backplate will give a phenomenal clamping force, something that only a heavy crash would overwhelm .

My 8" TOS chuck is fitted to the backplate with no register, has been since I got it new. I've slipped the belt and stalled the 3hp motor but it's never bothered the chuck.

Strange that they should use M8 in the Ultra and M10 in the Forte.

David, my 6" chuck has standard pitch M10 threads.

If you're still unsure about yours try a 6mm allen key in those screws already in your chuck then try a 1/4" allen key. If the 6mm fits but the 1/4" doesn't you know they are metric.

It doesn't matter but if you use the long bolts that mount from the front you have the advantage of the socket caps which are generally better quality (and stronger) fasteners, plus you plug the holes which prevents the inevitable accumulation of swarf or dirt to be thrown out when you least expect it. If the bolts are long enough you could even put nuts on them but the simplest way would be to fit the plate to the chuck and spot through the holes with a close-sized drill, then drill and tap the spotted marks to accept the capscrews.

Added to that there's no real requirement to have a register on the backplate. The chuck will work perfectly well bolting the flat faces together, the register only saves you the bother of clocking the chuck true before tightening the bolts.

In any case, you should take a thin facing cut on the backplate before fitting your new chuck to it (but AFTER drilling and tapping the mounting holes) just to make sure it runs true on the face.

I have a 6" Forte chuck I'll check what bolts that uses and it might give you an idea.