Member postings for Henry Artist

What a splendid model! Congratulations Neil.

Moonwalker 1 (8EL#203) was an extremely successful mission. Originally intended to operate for 3 lunar days it actually operated for 11 lunar days. It still has value today. Though the mission ended in 1971 it was "rediscovered" in 2010 and found to be the brightest reflector on the moon thus allowing very accurate laser range-finding of Earth - Moon distance.

Will you make a model of the Luna 17 lander?

There are a number of things to consider with meths (spirit) burners.

1) The size of the flame is directly proportional to the size (diameter) of the wick. Bigger wick = bigger flame. Cotton wick material is available in a huge variety of diameters from sellers of oil lamps. But you MUST extinguish the flame before all the fuel is used up otherwise the wick will burn away and need replacing. Fireproof wicks can be made from glassfibre rope or #400 stainless steel mesh. The wick should not be packed too tightly into the burner tube as this will impede capillary action preventing enough fuel being drawn up to burn.

2) The fuel in the tank (which requires a vent hole) must be no higher than the top of the burner tubes. (Unless it's a "chicken feed" burner.) Overfilling a fuel tank is a Viking funeral waiting to happen...

3) Meths burners produce soot. Lots and lots of soot.

4) With the wick type meths burner the flame is very susceptible to being blown around by even the slightest breeze. This is not too big a problem for those who run stationary engines indoors but can be for running a mobile steam engine outdoors.

Aside from historical authenticity there is no reason to use a meths burner when gas burner systems, and the parts for them, are readily available. The advantages of gas are that the flame does not get blown around by a breeze and so goes where it is needed - to heat the boiler. Also, when correctly set up the burner produces no soot and the flame is controllable. Contact Phil at Forest Classics to discuss your requirements - **LINK**

RDG Tools sell a range of airbrush adaptors. **LINK**

It may be better for you to buy a mini-lathe from a reputable UK dealer for a few hundred pounds and work on renewing/improving your machining skills before you invest several thousand pounds in an industrial lathe. You should have little difficulty in selling the mini-lathe when you are ready to upgrade your workshop.

Your biggest expense may not be the lathe itself but everything else that goes with it to actually make things. Accessories for mini-lathes are much cheaper than those for larger machines.

Take some time to consider what are likely to be the largest and smallest diameters you might like to turn and which materials you will be working with. This will help you to decide which lathe to go for first.

You may find it beneficial to read "Model Boilers And Boilermaking" by K N Harris.

"The Model Engineer's Handbook" by Tubal Cain also contains some very useful information on boilermaking and steam production calculations.

What you choose to do in the privacy of your own home is up to you but in most countries there are rules regarding the public exhibition and running of (model) steam engines. Have a word with your local Model Engineering Society.

If this is your first attempt at making a boiler you may prefer to go for a kit you can make yourself. All of the calculations are done for you and the correct materials included. PM Research make two boiler kits. GLR Kennions do a boiler kit too that can be gas or coal fired. Also, in UK some companies that supply ready made boilers for model steam will supply them as a kit of parts if you ask nicely.

I have a Sieg SX1LP which I purchased from ArcEuroTrade. It is sufficient for my modest needs as I only build small steam engine models as a hobby.

I have found the valves supplied by GLR Kennions to be very good quality. **LINK**

Sometimes, after a lot of use there can be a tiny leak at the valve stem but it is a simple matter to replace the graphite string packing. You may also like to experiment with O rings.

Alternatively, you may want to try the valves sold by Bengs Modellbau. **LINK**

They are made by Winfried Niggel and are rated to 6 bar.

I have a Numatic James. Great for sucking up swarf from my lathes and milling machine. Also excellent for domestic cleaning duties too.

A little bit more information would be helpful.

Is the locomotive a commercial model or scratch-built?

What gauge is it?

Normally a displacement lubricator is connected to the steam pipe leading to the cylinders.

One pipe connecting a displacement lubricator to the steam line is not uncommon. Such an arrangement exists on my Maxitrak Allchin. It can also be found with "dead end" lubricators sold by Stuart, PMR, Bengs Modellbau, etc.

Yes, a quick change tool post (QCTP) can make your life much, much easier.

Good to hear you have your engine running happily now. You may like to read this article - **LINK**

As you have no doubt realised a Displacement Lubricator is so called because steam condenses in it and as oil floats on water it displaces the oil forcing it into the steam line and thus it is carried to the engine. But that's not the only thing that is going on.

Can you say "water hammer"?

The pressure in the steam line (the pipe that goes from the boiler to the engine) is not constant. No sir, it is not. While the engine is running it fluctuates slightly. As a steam port opens and the piston begins moving into the cylinder the pressure momentarily drops. When the steam port closes a pressure wave travels back up the steam line (at the speed of sound for the medium through which it is travelling). Go look up "water hammer" for more information.

This is why it is a good idea to locate a displacement lubricator as close to the engine as possible where the effect is greatest.

Can you use a bigger fastener? The tapping hole for M3 is 2.50mm.

Drill out the hole much, much bigger, tap it and fit a plug. Then try again to tap M2.5.

Start making the part again from the beginning.

You should try building one some time. Not that difficult and loads of fun!

Up to a working pressure of around 2 bar-g, soft solder is OK. Look at toy steam engines. This method of soldering is still used by Wilesco and there are plenty of toy steam boilers made from very thin brass and soft soldered which are over 100 years old and still in working condition today.

If you are making your own boilers you have to decide on the odds of your boiler running out of water. Commercial steam toys are designed so the burner runs out of fuel before the boiler runs out of water. So long as there is sufficient water in the boiler no harm will come to it regardless of the method used to heat it. Just look at the Wilesco D455.

This is because of the laws of physics. At 2 bar-g water cannot exceed a temperature of 135C. Most soft solders melt at 183C so there is a significant margin of error.

In fact by the time water has reached a temperature of 183C the pressure would be around 10 bar-g and mechanical failure of the soft soldered joint more likely than failure due to melting before you get to that point!

Edited By Henry Artist on 04/05/2017 08:49:36

Long, long ago (so the story goes) if a car manufacturer discovered a fault in the design of one of their vehicles which might potentially lead to death or injury they would do a costing exercise which would give two cost figures -

Cost A was how much it would cost to change the design and make new, safer components, possibly alter the production line, and possibly do a recall to retro-fit the new components to all the existing vehicles with the fault.

Cost B was how much they would have to pay out in compensation if they did not fix the fault.

If Cost B was lower than Cost A they would not fix the fault.

Of course, modern vehicle manufacturers will vigorously deny that such scurrilous and morally questionable practices continue today.

Edited By Henry Artist on 03/05/2017 09:19:00

Comments, suggestions and questions are, of course, most welcome but try to keep them on topic.

Now that I know the steam plant works it is time to make the other components - a water tank and a condenser. The condenser seen in the video on Page 1 is just a temporary device that I often use to prevent oily cack and steam spraying on to my work bench.

I have a PMR water tank kit. This is what comes in the box...

I intend to make a slightly different 1/4" x 40tpi bush so I can have a valve on the water tank.

Thank you.

Thank you. I'm glad you are enjoying it.

Thank you