boiler for Stuart Turner 10H

At some time in the future I intend to build a steam boiler for my 10H, a cylinder about 8cm x 25cm appx. I intend to metal spin to form the end caps and make the cylinder from flat sheet, both of these methods seem to not be preferred!!

CAN anyone explain problems , pit falls or weaknesses

Nothing wrong with spinning your end caps if you feel more able to do that than flanging or pressing.

And only minor issue with rolling the barrel is that you have an extra joint so a bit more work and potential for a leak. Provided joint is done correctly with a butt strap and allowance made for the joint in any calculations then should be OK though easier to start with a bit of tube.

J

I have an old 120L hot Water tank , rated to 6bar so I am hoping to take the materials from that, hence my choice of construction. I was going to braise the tank seam, should I rivet Too?

One pitfall - if you are likely to need to have the boiler tested/certified, that will be problematic to say the least if using non-certified materials.

You may find it beneficial to read "Model Boilers And Boilermaking" by K N Harris.

"The Model Engineer's Handbook" by Tubal Cain also contains some very useful information on boilermaking and steam production calculations.

What you choose to do in the privacy of your own home is up to you but in most countries there are rules regarding the public exhibition and running of (model) steam engines. Have a word with your local Model Engineering Society.

If this is your first attempt at making a boiler you may prefer to go for a kit you can make yourself. All of the calculations are done for you and the correct materials included. PM Research make two boiler kits. GLR Kennions do a boiler kit too that can be gas or coal fired. Also, in UK some companies that supply ready made boilers for model steam will supply them as a kit of parts if you ask nicely.