Member postings for Richard S2

I also like it. Very compact. Looks about 3.1 spindle to hand wheel ratio from the pic.

Nice find and never seen one like it. Shame it was not a good day for you.

Regards

I replaced the tool post stud on my 1949 ML7 way back in 1986 with a new one from Myford, purely to accompany a new Single tool holder clamp set. The original one is clean (BSF) threaded.

I presume the threads on yours are a bit chewed now?,

So IF you wish to go down the 'back to original' path and use the proper nut, drop me a PM. The old one is used as a 'Keeper' for the Single parts set as a whole for storage, but I'm sure I can find an alternative.

VC!0 eh!. Envious of your experience. Loved the sound of those 4 Conways crackling on a cold clear frosty morning at Gatwick in the 70s/80s. Lovely spacious Flt Deck with a panoramic view. But probably a contributor to my having to live with Tinnitus now.

Thank you Steve, Having been a bit apprehensive about painting this, it's coming together better than I had anticipated.

Just about finished the front end now, except for fitting the chimney and one stud/nut to replace the c/sunk screw on the top slidebar. The hand wheel for the blower valve was all drilled and filed by eye, so not perfect.-

I made some changes to the design of the chain drum to reflect more full size practice which is now fitted. This drum is flanged each end and the chain bolts pass through these, rather than the drum itself. The worm wheel fixture is secured by a separate grub screw. finish is just oil blackening-

The redesigned feed pump is now fitted and tucks away nicely behind the rear wheel to disguise the out of scale size. I have to sort a tiny high spot on 2 teeth on the 2nd and 3rd shaft gears(spotted in red). only an issue of slight resistance when they merge, so I can't leave it-

Getting there.

Regards.

Thank you very much gentlemen for the positive responses. It's becoming a race where it's a challenge with the old hand joints locking up and the eyesight needs more assistance-

Thanks Vic, I have avoided them up to last week where the Museum has just asked me to sort 2 engines, one is a Stuart Turner N2 1933 and the other is a little J.A.P 2a 1940s, So my summer has been allocated for me. Be easier to deal with larger nuts and bolts etc though! (then there is also the Treshing Machine).

Thanks Nigel, appreciated. I took the process a stage further and made an embossing block from gauge plate.

Put the diamond hatching in with a slitting saw with 0.025" blade and about as deep. I then used that to press the pattern into well annealed brass sheet pieces by hitting it with a 1.1/2lb hammer on a block of railway track (my anvil, as I didn't have a press then). After the first impression hit, the cuts line up with the impression to get a 'register' for the next hit (again annealed). Had to put a screwdriver slot in the side to prise the plates apart, as the fit is very close. 3 hits and they were of good impression. I also tinned the top of the hatching so that I might wear the paint away a bit and it will show as looking like steel, rather than brass.

I still have the block I made over 30 years ago, as I might need it again-

This is the best shot I can get with my old camera to give a better view of the step(s) -

Thanks again. Regards.

Edited By Richard S2 on 01/06/2021 10:40:50

Well, nearly 2 months of frustrating delays to the painting/assembly due to unfavourable weather conditions.

Finally able to set up yesterday and apply the penultimate coat of semi matt black over hot bits at the front end. The chimney saddle and exhaust pipe were painted separately as it is bolted on. This enabled me to apply a consolidation coat over all the Cylinder block joints, stud heads and nuts without access issues, having satisfied myself with the valve timing setting etc (he says with fingers crossed).

Assembly began today of the respective front end parts, some of which are embellished with a bit more detail like the flanged and bolted exhaust at the cylinder end-

Bolt heads to paint, followed by a final black spray touch in around the saddle/smokebox joint. A Clean up of the raised lettering to do.

I settled for a cylindrical locknut on the valve rod with 2 flats on it, which to me anyway, looks less bulky or obvious than a 5 ba nut. The extended regulator rod and gland at the front of the cylinder is dummy of course. I found that there was so much spare metal on the casting, that I decided to turn and file this bit up to give it some detail. Yet to make 2 14ba studs and nuts for it yet (before I put the chimney on) -

I did manage at least to get the flywheel painted last month and really pleased with the finish. Gib key lightly fitted as it has to come off again -

Boiler barrel cladding (nickel silver) has had the top coat flatted down and ready for clear coat, along with the rear hubcaps. So hopefully more progress soon.

Another avid viewer of this channel. I particularly enjoy the 'Look at Life', 'Glimpses' and the educational shorts.

I despair of many modern produced programmes where they prefer to overlay the background incidental music to the mumbled narration and the minimal content.

The films and programmes on this channel are better for me. I suffer badly with tinnitus and normally have to listen using headphones to prevent general background noise drowning out the soundtrack or narration, less so on this channel because of the mainly clear, concise speech etc, despite the occasional iffy soundtrack quality....Long may it transmit.

I am a regular user of airbrushes over many years. My oldest brush is 45 years old and has been spraying cellulose and enamels from car panels to models for most of it's life without any replacement of parts (top of picture below).

It has a fine needle, will manage most types of paint, but is only capable of a 2 inch wide fan down to 1/16" wide. To spray a wider area say 1sq ft (30cm x30cm), you would need to retard the paint to maintain a wet edge. The amount of paint it will lay on is less, so will need to be built up in coats.

The next a'brush I have is the same brand (Badger USA) and model, but of 2020 manufacture. It has a medium needle/nozzle size and can throw paint on at a greater volume, but still with a 2 inch wide fan. So again, a retardant would be of benefit. I have always been impressed with this brush (usual disclaimer) for their versatility within my needs. I also have a Paasch, which has a very small reservoir, for low volume fine work.

I had to get used to the viscosity mix using etch primers on both and had to adjust the ratios to obtain a smooth fine application on small parts. I have been using paints etc from Phoenix with no issues, but with a bonus, in that the small jars are the same thread pattern as my airbrushes!.

So the bottom line is that if you wish to paint a larger area with an airbrush of restricted fan width a volume, you may have to settle for flatting down with wet or dry after colour and top coat with a slow drying clear coat.

So if you only paint mainly large areas, then a larger gun with a wider fan may be preferable, of which I have no significant experience, but imagine the costs will be lower.

Badger 200 series (1974) top. Badger 200-3 (2020) bottom.

Good luck with your projects(s)

I replaced both feedscrews (didn't need to) on my 1949 ML7 back in 86. I've kept the originals, as they looked very clean. I don't have the feed nut though.

Send me a PM with your email and I will send you some images to verify the condition for you.

Can't help with the other bit, my lathe never had them.

Regards.

I have a set (3 vols) black hardback and fine condition throughout. Interesting reading. However my set has no reference to a publishing date, or which edition it is. Suspect 40s/50s.

Suggest you have a read of this Topic from a few years ago on the same subject-

EWP

Enjoy them.

Regards

Likewise, if you are looking for a similar type.

I am a user of the Vortex VT3 kit by Arctic Hayes, I can only say that I"m more than satisfied with it's capabilities. Mine came with a Map gas version which I have not used yet due to finishing off a cylinder of different branded propane. Here's a link for your perusal and consideration-

Vortex VT3

Note- it is available from other outlets and at less than RRP.

Being an individual who repairs, refurbishes, restores and use old machines up to 98 years old so far, I hate to see the situation in this throwaway society.

I am due to consider a replacement for my 24 year old Philco washing machine, which is still going well with only a motor control pcb failure which I replaced myself 9 years ago. but need to relocate it to ground floor and so will replace it. I will be buying a British made replacement with a 7 year parts and labour warranty. My Fridge/freezer is 21 years old (made in Britain) and hope to get more long service from it. The 30 yr old steam iron has been regularly fully cleaned and a new flex fitted 3 years ago...works perfectly.

It's a shame we are preaching to the converted here, but at least we care.

For the price of a length of 3/4" silver steel, which has a Brinell hardness of about 270 in the raw, it would save a lot of work. You probably won't even need to harden/temper it any more either.

I've used it for my counter shaft on my ML7 and several other machines and it's fine and durable

TWF, The collet chuck system you require is the 'Posilock' listed on Warco's website. Item not available at present, but offers a link to alternative.

Check out this link (hope it works) - Collet Chuck set 2mt Posilock

As already mentioned, you need to select a set to suit whatever cutters you have, either metric or imperial.

Productive weekend with some assembly work. Fittings on the Backhead area installed. Additional floor plate extends to a closer point to the backhead. Oil boxes have filter screens inside -

Rather tricky to assemble and fit the tender what with the additions and changes, but went ok with just a few touch up areas to the black paint. Altered bolting pattern between tender/hornplates and I produced a raised chequer pattern, rather than cut it into the steps-

Tender was made with 20swg steel sheet (from a 1970s fridge freezer back plate) riveted to 5/16" brass angle. The tank is lined with brass sheet and a stainless floor plate. Rivet are 3/64".

Also managed some more painting of parts today, so for me it was productive for a change.

Regards

Thank you all for the positive comments. If it inspires people to add more detail to their project, then this topic has done the job.

I have finished the front wheels now. Altered the size of the hub caps (reduced) and changed the oiler style-

I decided to stick with a change I considered for the axle and have now finished the Spud ring and pan-

This was straight forward fabrication using visual scale from full size engines. The only problem was finding a way to produce the pan and flange. I found the answer in an old Duraglit tin and used the lid.

I think I have managed to get the final top coat on the tender today, amongst other bits, so proceeding quicker now.

Redesigned reversing lever and motion work pieces have all been fettled now, so ready for assembly-

Layout of the con rod parts following closer full sized design-

Thanks again.

Regards.

Makes me feel better to see others overcoming these tiny challenges as well. I have been twiddling tiny screws, nuts and bolts for a while now. I have a number of ways to start them on threads etc, primarily my favourite tweezers and cocktail sticks. Finish up with watchmaker's screwdrivers and specially made spanners. How small is small?-

Regards

Very fine workmanship. Always good to see progress of projects here . Is this a collective effort?, as you say 'We' .

Thank you for your observations/contribution.

So continuing with this reasonable representation of the brand's model, I managed to dull the finish on the shiny wheel tread faces and now seem to look better-

Nearly finished, and just the Drawabar to make that will replace the shafts. It can then be hooked up to the Modded Minnie TE-

I found it easy to source thick walled steel tube (seamless) from M-machine. A quick check shows up a choice of the sizes you would require to produce turned 'T' rings.

I recently produced a pair with a diameter of 4 1/2", although mine had all the spokes riveted to the inner face of the 'T', but easy enough to alternate. Maybe a little fiddly on the 3" Diddy ones, but do-able.

I used a simple double edged (3/16ths) square HSS tool in a boring bar on my lowest speed (ML7) with no issues-

There are some images in my album which may assist you with building them this way, or help you decide.

Rgds