Member postings for not done it yet

Is there one for diarrhoea?

JB,

That is more like a BAR stool than a milking stool. A good milking stool would bump on the rim before falling over.

Made by someone who has clearly never milked cow from a stool. I have, btw, on very numerous occasions. One side was always made, or worn, shorter so that one could 'lean' in towards the cow. You also need to be fairly low down to reach her teats. Small pails were used for two good reasons too!

Jason B,

IFthe milking stool was perfectly symmetrical (and built with the legs sufficiently spaced, as it should be), shortening one leg would never cause it to fall over (centre of mass would remain within the effective base). But if two legs were shortened by different amounts .... it would no longer remain stable in all circumstances - unless the legs were vertical and at the extreme edge. I think!

Silly analogy in the first place - as the stool only has three legs so all legs will be in contact with uneven ground. whilst in stable equilibrium.

Edited By not done it yet on 24/02/2017 11:39:58

If it was that easy they would make and sell 3 jaw independent chucks but they don't - wonder why ?

Similar reasoning why nobody makes locking back plates for Myford lathes? Either simply not needed or not practical? I think the latter.

Transmission cables have power (energy) losses according to he standard laws of physics. The power loss is calculated as I^2R, where I represents current in Amperes and R represents the resistance in Ohms.

The energy loss is as heat, measured in Joules.

Likewise, the maximm current is calculated according to Ohm's Law where V=IR, where V is measured in Volts.

From the second calculation the current carrying ability of any conducyor is reduced to one half for each doubling in length. Halving the current means reducing the energy generated (lost) by a factor of four. That is for a short circuit situation, although the same voltage would be available anywhere along the line if the current were zero.

There is always some 'juice' at the end of any cable - it may just be so small as to be economically useless.

The simple analogy for electricity flow is a water pipe, where voltage, and current are equivalent to pressure and water flow respectively. Flow at a open tap (without pipe attached - so zero length) is far greater than at the flow though a very long length of pipe.

For any power transmission line (electricity or water) high pressure and low resistance to flow (a large diameter conductor) and low flow rate are required to minimise the losses within the length of the item. For transatlantic cables, the current is infinitesimally small, hence the requirement of a galvonometer to measure same. But voltage changes are more easily detected and measured, fed to an amplifier and converted to a useful signal - hence the first transmissions were of voltage and zero voltage (on or off signal) like morse code signals.

Separately, for high power transmission such as the international interconnectors for grid power, to other parts of Europe per eg, large diameter (so low resistance) conductors and very high voltages are required. They are made more efficient by transmitting direct current at high voltage. This is because with direct current the voltage is constant (100 times every second the voltage would be zero if transmitting alternating current). Furthermore, the peak voltage for any sinewave alternating current powerline would need to be 1.41 times that of a direct current line of the same dimensions and material.

I would not even countenance the idea, let alone try something, that may allow any (even minute) loosening of the backplate from the register. Fretting could destroy the register in no time at all.

If you actually need a lathe which operates in the opposite direction to normal, buy one with a suitable spindle, not a threaded one, is my advice.

I would think these 'extras' are still only 'belt and braces' protection against the possibility of a chuck unwinding on deceleration, not against possible intermittent cutting forces in the 'undoing' direction at high speed. I may be wrong, but that is my take on it.

2 dints (I associate dints as only small dents) for £85? Unless in an area which may affect operation, I would go for it. Even barter for a bit better deal, as you are having a new shiny machine atop it! After all they have made an offer which may still be much in their favour.

How long before you might give it a dint, or two, extra?

Completely filling the tank with water will avoid any explosion risk while heating close to it.

Be a 'goodboy' and find your way over to U-toob.

Search for 'gear hobbing' and all, or most, will be reavealed somewhere amongst the videos.

You say 'equally square'. Are you sure you are dealing with ACME thread? Or is it a square thread? Better to confirm now than get it wrong!

Before we get too deep into this one, where is the current draw measured? If it is the inverter draw, then that may be misleading somewhat.

It might be useful to know the current draw of the motor that gives no running probem. VFDs are certainly not 100% efficient and single phase draw will be different from the phase draw of the motor. It might not be important, but needs clarification I think.

Most of these machines have motors where the direction of rotation is not so easily reversed. Much like an automotive starter motor in that it does not care what polarity.

They will work on DC current equally well as on AC, by the way - but I would prefer a 240V shock in preference to DC, I think!

Thinking here that it doesn't look like an amateur/homemade fitment.

The faced area on which it sits doesn't look too easy for the model engineer - a large chunk to fit on a mill (or could that be done by some other means?) - but I'm interested to know how, it it was.

It appears thaf different logo plates were fitted to the standard machine.

So I still opt for a factorg special, until persuaded otherwise.

The painted machined surface is surprising, mind!

Thanks for the replies.

Yes, I machine CI dry for almost all operations due to the graphite content (as I indicated in my OP) . The only time I use (extra) lube is thread cutting, mainly because the tool catches the 'grinding paste', particularly in blind holes - thus minimising dust into the atmosphere (if needed to be blown out). It was only for the purpose of reaming, not general machining (including boring) that I was asking about, as there is such minimal material removed.

Removing oil from a tap is easy enough, so I would anticipate no paricular problem with a reamer. Solvent for the oil or detergent in an ultrasonic cleaner easily suffices, if total clealiness is required.

Thanx to Alan and Nigel B for the confirmation that, while not necessarily rrequired, oil or cutting fluid can be appropriate.

Make it such that the headstock can not be rotated full circle? Many 'homebrew' wind turbines have no moving connections - they rely on the wind not winding up the output leads very much, thus allowing the operator to occasionally unwind any twist in the cables through the bottom of the tower before the twist becomes excessive. You would only then need some multistrand flexible wires.

Sliprings are also used on turbines, but tend to be rather larger than a bicycle tube! Automotive alternators use a smallish slipring arrangement for exciting current for the rotor. Spark ignition engines use carbon contact with brass for the distributor rotor connection for the high tension spark energy.

You might think about the horn button within the steering wheel of some cars, although they are a rather intermittent piece of kit. Morris Minor comes to mind as an example.

There have been many bicycles made with front wheel dynamos, over the years. Surely there must be some around that you could investigate. Enquiring on a bicycle type forum may yield some precise explanations of the usual methods.

Hope that helps.

into the 19th century

Is the design that old! Would that be early or late 19th century, John? Err, 1810 or 1890 ... ish?

The same thing happens to items like double glazing units covered in it, too. Even some masking tapes can become a nightmare to remove, if left on and exposed to light. BTDT on both counts! Get the protective film of fascia boards, and the like, as well.

This thread reminds me I have three sheets of damaged acrylic. I had better sort them, or probably scrap them.

When reaming cast iron, do you lubricate (further) or not? Oil, flood, cutting, tallow/graphite ... anything else?

Topic came up elsewhere. 'ONLY dry' was stipulated, but I was thinking more like often not necessary but still optional. I would use oil, but willing to learn!

Ha ha, maybe the abusive previous owner needed to mount something longer than the bed? ie from tailstock centre to back of chuck was not quite enough.... Or perhaps fell asleep while taking a cut on a job and was using a boring bar an Iinch and a half longer than needed?

This thread should be in the 'tool abuse' thread!

Edited By not done it yet on 14/02/2017 15:24:59

Here is a thought (after seeing their advertising that 'everyb machine comes assembled'

If delivered by their

own transport, would they supply it dismantled? They clearly have to certify it, but the advertising ("Warco GH Universal Mills are supplied fully assembled"

suggests these machines arrive in parts at Warco?