Member postings for not done it yet

I used to get students to drop a steel slug down a piece of copper pipe and catch it, as it exited, with the same hand. Then substitute a neo magnet for the steel slug and show how easy it was to catch it!

In simple terms, lines of magnetic field crossing a conductor induce a current which, in turn, produces a magnetic field which opposes that of the magnet (and defeats gravity a bit). B

asics of motors and generators.

**LINK**

Bram,

I 'goggled' the place, 'goggled' for pubs near that post code and came up with the link above. Seems like the Flintlock Inn is the closest

I would think those change wheels mostly became redundant when the QCGB was fitted.

I just use a strong magnet inside a deep(ish) plastic bin/tub/etc. Nothing fancy.

I was wondering how many would lathe cut threads on anything less than about 5mm diameter? Is cutting with a die, securely held by the tailstock, any less accurate than likely needing a travelling steady? I've seen longer, small diameter threaded rod made using a travelling guide before but I've never even considered it.

Beware of welding. It may cause warpage - the last thing you want.

I somehow doubt that machines with half nuts have square threaded lead screws. No bother with square threads where no half nuts are involved - stronger but maybe s lityle more power to operate? One needs to remember that industrial feed speeds are sorted out for machines capable of climb milling. There will be a difference, with cutter wear, for hobby machines used mainly in the other feed direction.

Buy 'em quick. They are cheap, even for normal Dormer drills!

Edited By not done it yet on 21/10/2017 06:31:54

David did not say he lifted it - he 'shuffled' it. Once a crow bar can gain purchase, the machine can easily be lifted sufficiently to get rollers under, or manouvre it on to a pallet. Levers and fulcrums can make moving a much heavier machine, than half a tonne, seem easy compared to lifting something up to bench height.

I (well, we) went yesterday. A very good day out.

Met up with a Raglan owner for a chat and introduced myself to forum member Gary Wooding (we are both Centec users), who presented a very interesting talk about properties of precious metals. Interesting to me as there were a couple of surprises. I used to work recovering precious metals back about 30 years ago.

Purchased a few second hand bits - tooling and cutters mainly - and got thoroughly tired out but it was very enjoyable. Can now look forward to the 2018 show.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery, from here. An honest poster with heaps of expetience and a wealth of knowledge. Heres hoping he makes a return to full health and gets back on the forum - his posts are both direct and helpful to other readers. tNot only on this forum, but others, too, where his postings are acknowledged as second to none.

In over twenty years I have bought one Chinese lathe new - and never used it so much for various reasons - quality, operation and I was not a maker of models - a Raglan LJ, which was bought to replace the former but languished unused for several years due to my health issues, and since using the raglan much more regularly I located a 5" model in extreeemly good order. That is replacing the LJ.

On the milling front, I bought a machine very locally which was only suited to very lightweight work. I bought a Raglan, ex a development toolroom (where the previous owner knew it was looked after and only used for protoype developments). It is a great little mill, but small. I use it quite a lot. I then bought the Centec which is ideal for most of my needs. - bigger, both horizonttal and vertical, and far cheaper than a chinese equivalent.

Andrew, on the forum, has seemingly fallen on his feet with his Centec purchase and a friend purchased an almost unused (probably only turned wood the few times it had been used) from an elderly gent who was never likely to use it again.

The three Raglans (2× 5" and the mill) were purchased fully knowing that they were in nearly

as-new condition and were far cheaper than either a comparably sized (and quality) new Chinese, or old myford in similar condition. That is why I buy old iron in preference to new chinese.

Oh, and I recently bought the Alexander shaper - can't even buy a new handraulic shaper, chinese, or other, these days!

I made a 22mm arbor for my Centec. A bought-in 2MT blank and shrink fitted the two pieces together. Not fallen apart yet. I considered cross drilling and pinning as well. Time will tell, but all is well at the moment.

so bought a myford 254 now very happy.

Which was likely developed from the Raglan machines, after Myford bought out Raglan and closed it down. While the spindle outer races are obsolete, the Raglan is a far superior machine compared to the same era Myford offering. Rather more expensive, mind!

Spindle bearings are not too difficult to source - only the drive/chuck end bearing gets worn, the other end usually showing no signs of wear. You won't pick one up so easily - they weigh about a third more than a Myford. 3 1/2 cwt was quoted for the Little John and the 5" weighs a bit more.

Not always comprehensively useful but internet translation sites/services usually do a good job, if you have the time to pick your way through the website.

Edited to add: there are often choices for the language.   There are ten on the original link.

Edited By not done it yet on 18/10/2017 16:59:50

Thanks for the quick reply, Stephen. These chime and strike movements are rather intimidating to me. I will try to identify this chime warning wheel and go from there.

I'm guessing this chime warning wheel needs to turn at 25 past and 20 to the hour as well? I think it chimes on the half and three quarters, if the clock is started after the quarter hour.

First of all I need to make a decent stand for holding the movement while out of the case. I will get on with that once I have changed over my lathes, which is progressing painfully slowly at the moment.

I'm only a tinkerer with clocks, but learning a bit, and this movement has me totally stuck (not difficult!).

OK, here are the details.

Clock runs and keeps reasonable time, but it chimes at ten past the hour (1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 all at the same point, one after the other). I think it chimes (and certainly strikes) on the hour as it should.

If I advance the minute hand it chimes at the correct points every time, but not when under clock power!

Any ideas, please.

Again requiring dismantling, but maybe a possibility if you need to, could it be 'ceramic sealed'?

Back over 30 years ago I had an engine with a cracked cylinder head (an exhaust valve fell into the cylinder which hammered the head, bore and piston until the engine seized) which was metal stitched and 'ceramic sealed'. I just accepted the process and cost, as a new cylinder head was out of the question (1940s production) and importing a second hand cylinder head from the US was not an easy option back then, if even available. No problems with it since. I had no idea what the process involved and was just very pleased to have it repaired.

5Where has the post by Douglas Johnston (@10:07) gone?!?

Wot? Like my suggestion about 4 posts up

(Chuckles).