Member postings for not done it yet

41p each!

Drops to 19p for 100 units!

I have spoken with the vendor (of the Raglan 5” offered in the forum advert section). It is most certainly a 5” model, but is either a very early example, or (more likely) a cheaper ‘ schools’ variant of the normal 5”, in that it has the same ( well, very similar) carriage to the Little John. The cross slide is likely improved and it does have the larger diameter lead screw. I changed from a LJ to the 5” for the advantages of the better designed, and somewhat superior, apron.

However, I agree with Jim. You get a far superior lathe compared to the average myford. I am, of course, not biased in any way whatsoever .

Extra bits of info are that while the change-wheel LJs were convertible to QCGB, the 5” models, without, are not so easily converted. These lathes will have the wider (stronger) drive train gears, compared to the earlier LJ Mkll lathes, along with the 5” adjuster (easier and better than the multi position banjo of the later LJs).

At 3 1/2 cwt, and probably a bit, they are more robust than a myford, but I have loade several in and out of my Citroen Saxo without too much hassle - and without any assistance on occasions. The stand would likely need a second trip for my Saxo as I think it might be overweight for the roof rack!

Kevan is open to offers - and I am sure it is a genuine lathe in good mechanical order, even if it may need a motor repair or change.

When i wanted a load of oilers I got them from the nipple shop. Not sure how they compare to the above suppliers on price/quality, but were fine for my lathe.

Thanks, John.

I’m sure it will help us make the little gems even more amenable.

I’m not one to simply set it up “as fine as it will go and leave it there”.

Roy,

With a simple pointed tool sharpened on both sides, I would agree that the cut would be the same either way of travel. I’ve not yet got a range of cutters, but I expect roughing and fine finishing might need different approaches and a cutter sharpened to cut optimally may not cut the same in both directions (think here left and right handed cutters for a lathe, per eg).

Deleted.  Double post

Edited By not done it yet on 19/01/2018 19:55:05

My post from page one.

Mine has part of the fast traverse (bits fitted at manufacture) but it is fitted with a full lead screw nut at the power feed end of the slideway. I expect quite a lot have been modified thus, over the years. I’m sure a lead screw can be machined from a suitable length of bought-in threaded rod. No need to be ACME if the nut is changed. I’m sure some purists would cringe, but if still manufacturing, Centec would be supplying metric bits by now!  

Might need a different scale on the manual handle, or just fit a dro and not bother with the scale (I don’t use the scale, only count the turns for a 1”, or multiple, movement, if working on something in imperial measurements.

Edited By not done it yet on 19/01/2018 20:01:27

Should they not be supported at three points?

Many milling machines have a dro fitted to the quill. No reason why that concept cannot be integrated with the tailstock of a lathe.

An Adept (2, I think), which looked to be in good condition, went for a mere £250 on epay this last couple of days. I would not personally pay that much for one but, clearly, someone wanted it (unless it is relished...).

Colin,

Do you make heavy duty meccano?

The link belt on my compressor has been on for well over thirty years, so can’t complain on that score. I would have used linked belts for my lathe a couple of years year ago, but the spindle was out, so normal V belts were the cheap option and they would see me out.

I think one can perhaps fare better if running a single solid belt rather than a linked belt but my lathe had twin belts so no worries about fluctuating spindle speeds.

Now I have changed my model, if it were to need new belts, they would be the linked variety - unless the spindle had to be removed at the time.

Search box will find a couple of threads at least.

I think it is a metric ruler - the imperial scale is the inferior one (they used to be the superior scale - which meant drawing, or marking, a line using the device was more difficult if wanting a metric length!).

Tape measures were the same for a long time (and might still be) after metrification - a pita to use for metric measurements - and it was difficult to even find a metric-only tape for quite some time afterwards.

If it is only a superficial ding, I would start with trying something a little less aggressive than the reamer. Some strips of abrasive, glued to a good morse taper, may be sufficient to remove the offending marks. Revert to reamer plan, only if required.

Mine is a WWII edition, 11th, I think.

Were these on war-time paper, or are they all on thin paper? All the info is there, cost me ‘nuthin’ and is invaluable at times.

Bazyle,

Can you get a feed of 12 1/2 thous., or even 20 thous., with the standard set up? And what ram stroke will these operate over? Can you alter the rotating pin height, to change how long or short the stroke needs to be to get one, or two, teeth feed?

Do I take it, from that statement, your gears rattle when not under much load? Kinda means that extra feed, rather than depth of cut, loads up the gear train?

Exactly my point.

Feed rate is also important. Cut per tooth needs to exceed a value at which ‘rubbing’ can occur.

I only used thous. because the shaper is really old, and metric hadn’t been invented in Britain back then!

A Boxford is mechanically powered (not handraulic or manumatic), by an electric motor? It is easy to load those up to full capacity and they will run all day long. I wouldn’t! Slow and easy is what is needed for me!

As a round figure 6 1/4 thous. would be 0.15mm (0.158, more precisely).

What I am asking, of the users, is whether more than one setting is accomplishable, among other things. I think users of hand shapers, in general, would be OK replying on some of the points, but powered shapers are a different ball game - or at least in a different league.

I would not plane them out using the carriage on my previous lathe - the rack pinion was a weak link on that model. I still would not do it on the present one either, but it is a matter of choice.

Apart from the other alternatives mentioned, one could buy a shaper and use that. Adept hand shapers are fairly common and easily up to the job.

Or you could buy some broaches if you have a means of pressing them through.

Hacksaw and filing is another way, but likely needs more skill and practice to achieve the same quality of keyway.

Edited to add that there are attachments,for fitting to the carriage, for keyway cutting.  They would operate with the carriage travel locked down.

Edited By not done it yet on 14/01/2018 13:46:49