Member postings for RichardN

Many thanks - I had been looking at buying a small hand pump, but when this series started I hoped the pump would be included too to make my own.

From the brief skim I had earlier, the form tool would create the cone - which if you use the 'thump a spare ball' methodology for creating the seat presumably is easier with less metal to move, and thus creates a larger seat to seal? Would you drill undersize and ream before the cone is formed then Jason?

Just sat down in hospital with my son to read the latest instalment of the vert boiler, and I can’t see figure 1, assembly view of the hand pump. Was this in a previous issue that I should also have brought with me? The photos in part 4 are numbered from 1 so I assumed the figures would too?

Richard

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Hello- here’s a link to the index I use, which also has a link to one for Model Engineers Workshop. There are a few different index’s people host, others may recommend a different one? I don’t think there is an ‘official’ index though, if that was what you wanted. Don’t forget the digital archive doesn’t go back indefinitely, so the index will bring up earlier volumes than you can access!

Cheers Colin. I’ll temper this one next time the torch is out, and try silver brazing the next one to fail...

Sounds like a sensible move- would just bringing a couple of inches either side of the weld up to red and let cool gently be sufficient? My welds have always worked, but not for long- I suspect this could be a good solution, thanks.

I would guess Tig would be fine - I only tried mig when a blade snapped shortly followed by my spare, welded both and have carried on welding all my blades up whenever a blade fails now.

I’m sure scarf jointing and brazing would produce a better joint- but would potentially shorten the overall blade length- may be worth checking your adjustment limits in case...

I’ve welded bandsaw blades fairly frequently (possibly frequently due to my technique...)

Clamp both ends of blade (just touching) on a piece of mdf. Bang a splodge of Mig weld on the join. Grind flush.

*(Checking you haven’t left a twist in the blade before welding is optional).

**(when grinding sides of blade flush, it is very easy to break the newly made join- try using sanding drum on dremel rather than angle grinder unless you have more skill than me).

Old thread I know, but these may be interesting to people:

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These magazine files are 90p for 4, and hold two volumes of ME perfectly.

The official files are nice, but pricey, and every magazine I have that has been hole punched is missing a crucial word or number in one of the holes! These may only be simple cardboard but perfectly sturdy enough for indoor use (maybe not a damp shed though...).

Edited By RichardN on 01/03/2018 12:51:02

Are you thinking of a larger version of the Myford saw table, as shown here which is modified for mini lathes?

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I have used a 4” square of 1/4” sheet clamped at suitable height with a block on top as a fence as a poor mans version of this which worked quite well... but relatively small capacity to suit my needs any S7...

Good to hear I haven’t been abusing my S7 then, since so many others have done rather more than I! I don’t mind admitting I have done so now I know people who know what they are doing do it too...

As much as I like the designs here, some of which I have considered making, for an occasional use, is there an issue with just using the saddle handwheel for movement with a keyway cutter held on the topslide? I appreciate a few turns of the handle each stroke is less convenient than a single swing of a lever, but the same overall effect?

sorry to hear of the fire damage, hopefully something(s) is/are recoverable....?

Here's the link for info on posting images...

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0 gauge - LBSC seemed to suggest buying such items pre-made from one of the likely advertisers- it seemed such a satisfying little task to design and machine myself... Ran out of time to make the jig for drilling the rivet holes, or the beam itself... but I feel I have now started building the loco, just about...

Spent a day fiddling and ended up with a sprung buffer, just the one mind... the next 3 should be a little quicker...

Thanks for the replies- I was aiming for the 1:43.5ish standard gauge, so probably worth joining the Gauge 0 Guild.

The NEM links look great, hopefully once I join the G0G they have a similar level of data sheets! Or I may end up with a German NEM coupling with G0G buffer spacing on a random not quite to scale loco...

I am designing and starting to build in gauge 0, I have found online a series of references to wheel and track standards, but nothing regarding the buffers, linkages (between rolling stock) etc.

Are there standard height, spacing etc? Do some toy manufacturers vary to stop people mixing and matching? Does one standardise everything they build to be compatible with their local track? Or is prototypical to scale the starting point?

For the second item, that can wobble and rotate, how about a rotary broaching holder? The broach may not need to be ‘fixed’ and can just sit there and be crammed into the workpiece while wobbling away to its hearts content?

It's not unusual to include an over length piece of filament (3mm is ideal, but I've seen a few pieces of thin filament used) within the bundle of wires to the extruded which is held in a clamp to the back of the extruded block- this give flexible bouncy stiffness, with all load taken on the filament (cheap enough to replace if it does break) but creates instant cable strain relief.

This link might be better for people to click on for the video...

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I think a pair is gashes at 45 degrees to the cutting edges through the centre is the quick and easy solution with a saucer wheel if you have one- the centre portion has virtually no cutting effect anyway... while this may affect the aesthetic of the cutter, does it have a negative effect on the cutting action?

I find that once 'gashed' the cutter can be touched up several times before needing hashing again..