Member postings for Steve Skelton 1

Last one - on eBay but is not a known brand to me, but much lower cost!

**LINK**

Cheers

Alternatively Proteus do a slightly lower cost one

**LINK**

Steve

Hi, you are going to struggle to find one at a reasonable price - I came across this when searching. We have a business selling obsolete electrical control gear and we very rarely come across them.

id-65-2998:dev-c&gclid=CjwKCAjw7LX0BRBiEiwA__gNw3ejZT-uMTXxgyXoU1ZlkIqVIa8yutDq4oPUFsE5rrAdDbPebByruRoCB7EQAvD_BwE">https://www.rapidonline.com/Schneider-Electric-A9Z51240-40A-Single-Phase-2-Pole-30mA-Type-B-RCD-65-2998?IncVat=1&pdg=pla-340003444795:kwd-340003444795:cmp-757438067:adg-98613163406:crv-428566073244id-65-2998:dev-c&gclid=CjwKCAjw7LX0BRBiEiwA__gNw3ejZT-uMTXxgyXoU1ZlkIqVIa8yutDq4oPUFsE5rrAdDbPebByruRoCB7EQAvD_BwE

Cheers

Steve

Hi Steve, during a report on the BBC recently they said that, although their is no proof, the belief is that Coronavirus is not killed by freezing but just remains dormant. The advice is to wipe any packages with a disinfectant prior to freezing so that on defrosting (and it becomes active again) it is not transferred onto other surfaces if it is present.

Best to dispose of any cardboard packaging before putting it in the freezer.

Cheers Steve

Nowadays I only tend to print with ABS+ on a glass bed and find that if I paint the bed (when cold) with a dilute solution of ABS dissolved in acetone that I get no problems at all with adhesion (or lifting) without the need for a raft or anything else.

As the things I print are generally exposed to water and need to be quite tough I find ABS+ to be the best medium.

Obviously the need to clean the bed with acetone is required occasionally if the layer builds up to much on the bed. I also find that using a bed temp of 110deg C to be best.

Steve

In the average pleasure boat the option of electric heating and cooking is not an option when at anchor or on a mooring so the only options are gas or diesel. Diesel cookers are not very common and are quite expensive, hence why gas is used in 95+% of all small craft.

Steve

Interesting thing is that if I try to visit the site via Google and a VPN it comes up with "www.googleadservices.com refused to connect.".

This indicates it is all to do with the Google search engine as when searching using Firefox through a VPN I can get straight through to the website without any problem and no e-mail received.

Moral of the story - stop using Google and try Firefox or other search engine. It is claimed that DuckDuckGo is the safest search engine that does not store any personal analytics.

It has certainly got me thinking!!

Steve

Mick, having worked with silicone rubbers in the window industry the type of silicone you are looking for is "neutral cure low modulus" silicone sealant.

Steve

As belt and braces make sure the angle is earthed and the supply is fed from a 30mA RCD/RCBO then whatever happens you will be safe.

Steve

I find a little jewellers rouge made into a paste with water and painted onto the surface works best for keeping silver solder from spreading where it isn't wanted.

Steve

Yes, it will be polyethylene.

Dick, the Acrifix is an interesting adhesive but is only suitable for plastics that are soluble in methyl methacrylate as the adhesive "solvent welds" to the substrate before cross liking itself with the UV to give a hard joint.

Neil I assume you mean Lazer Bond? Having looked at it I will probably try this out. I searched for your review but could not find it - do you have further details?

From my research it appears that the bonding material itself is suitable as a gap filler when cross linked, the question mark is its adhesive properties as I have not found any review where the material actually 'bonds' to plastic substrates although it naturally bonds to semi porous materials or where a mechanical bond is possible. I also found references to degradation of the bonding material over time (moisture or uv exposure?).

Steve

Hi Michael, yes there is a product that has been developed from the stuff dentists use - called Bondic. This has mixed reviews and was my first choice when I started looking. For small jobs it looks reasonably good but refills at about £8 for a 4g cartridge it appears quite expensive. You can buy 50g from the far-east for under a fiver but I have no idea if it is any good.

Steve

Geo, not worried either way whether it has a uv light pen or not. Would just like to have other peoples experiences with non-specialised uv cured adhesives.

Steve

Hi, has anyone got any good (or bad) experience of using uv cured gap-filling adhesives for general repairs on non-olefin plastics. There appear to be a vast array of cheap far-east imports on eBay and other sites but it would be useful to have a reasonably priced yet reliable general purpose uv cured gap filling adhesive for rapid repairs on non critical household items.

As I understand it there are acrylics and epoxies available, there may be more but I am struggling to find reliable evidence on any of them other than specialist engineering adhesives

Thanks in advance, Steve

I would be very wary of starting the engine if you have distorted the spin-on filter as it may have been internally damaged and bits of filter or rubbish could get into the oil system with dire consequences.

I have had similar expeeiences removing oil filters and perseverance has usually worked. Metal band/strap rype removers usually work for me. I tend to put a rubber strip beneath the strap for extra grip without distorting the filter.

Good luck

Steve

All back up and running. Many thanks to John at Mintronics.

Thanks Jason, I will try to get it back they way you suggest.

I did not, however, respond to an e-mail. When I opened up my old copy of Atom 3D it came up with a screen asking me to download the upgrade. I have to say I am very disappointed with the way Alibre have done this.

So if anyone does not have the maintenance package ignore the splash screen on opening up the program (I think that's what you call it) that says click here to download the latest upgrade. I do not think it said anywhere that you need to pay for it.

Jason, I bought the basic package less than 3 months ago so would have expected that if they upgraded the package within that time that they included the upgrade.

If Alibre are that strict and petty about not allowing a free upgrade within a three month period I would have thought they would, at least,have the basic technology to not send an automatic upgrade command through to me if I am not eligible to receive it.

I now have software that I cannot use and do not know how to go back to the old version that I am only entitled to.

As I said HELP

I went to load up Atom 3D and it informed me an update was available so I clicked on it to download it as you do. It then said a reboot was necessary which I did. I then tried to load up Atom 3D and it informed me:-

"This version of the software was released after your yearly maintenance subscription has expired. You do not currently have access to this version".

What is going on. I only bought this a few months ago and having been away for the late spring and early summer I wanted to carry on learning how to use the software.

This cannot be right surely - has anyone else had this happen?

What do I have to do to use what I bought. Will this mean every time that they make a change to the software you have to re-buy it?

HELP

Steve