Member postings for John Reese

One argument against an independent 3 jaw is the difficulty getting the work to run true. I have Japanese 3 jaw with the adjust true feature. There are 3 screws for adjusting runout. It take me far longer to get that chuck dialed in than with a 4 jaw.

Definitely a power hack saw, probably shop built. With that enormous adjustable weight I bet it could really eat up blades.

I used to have a 4 way turret mounted on my lathe. I got smart and replaced it with an Aloris. No shims required- ever. Same can be said for Dickson style toolposts.

Sequence of operations:

1. Chuck & set stickout

2. Drill through several lengths

3. Face to length, Chamfer

4. De-burr the hole

6. Part off. Parting tool should have lead on the front so it cuts through the right side first and a 45* shoulder to form the chamfer left of the cut.

7. Hand deburr hole.

8. Advance work in the chuck

9. Go back to step 3

10. Drill deeper as needed.

Chronologically:

1. Cincinnati Contourmaster with broken tracer. Gone

2. Cincinnati Ho. 2 horizontal. Gone

3. Sharp, copy of Bridgeport. Still have it

4. Rong Fu 45. Still have it.

Chronologically:

1. South Bend 9", well tooled. Gone

2. South Bend 10K, almost every accessory. Still have it.

3. Pratt & Whitney 14" x 30". Had been to England and back. Gone

4. Lehmann 20" x 120". Gone

5. Myford Mini-Kop. Gone

6. Warner & Swasey 1A. Gone

7. Clausing Metosa 13" x 30". Gone

8. Unknown 8mm watchmaker's lathe. Still have it.

9. Nardni 16" x 40". Still have it.

I would guess they are from the watchmaking industry.

I, too, detest the damned things. Imagine the resources that were wasted creating them. They seem to appeal most to those who have inadequate language skills.

Consider buying a 4 axis DRO. The scales can stay connected permanently.

Just cut it witth an abrasive disc and do not worry about loss od hardness. I do it often.

Robertson heads are quite common in the US also. We see some screws with a combination head: Robertson and Phillips. They seem to strip out more frequently than either the Robertson or the Phillips. The higher grade fasteners are mostly Torx drive now.

Expanding collets are made. Here is an example for a watchmaker's lathe:**LINK**

At one time I had a similar collet in 5C size. At the time I didn't have a lathe so I gave it away.

The weight of the chuck itself will have a negligible effect on the spindle bearings. The cutting forces when turning are greater than the weight of the chuck. A greater problem is the total thickness of the chuck. Bigger chucks are thicker. The effect is similar additional stickout of the workpiece.

I think it would be worthwhile to keep some small diamond core drills on hand for removing broken taps or drills. Example:**LINK**

You can grind a tool bit to the correct profile. Use one of the existing planet gears as a template. Use the tool bit in a flycutter. I have used that method to cut gears of nonstandard pitch or pressure angle.

The collet shape is very similar to the collet in my Porter Cable router.

It is possible remove a lot of metal by chain drilling. Using an endmill instead of a drill will allow a little overlap of the holes. If you can get rid of nearly all the excess metal by chain drilling you might be able to get away with very light milling passes to clean up. Note my emphasis.

I used to keep my stones in a pan of Kerosene. Never had any buildup of crud.

Froggy the Gremlin from the Buster Brown show, sponsored by Buster Brown shoes.

I use HSS. Lots of rake and polished top and face.