Member postings for HOWARDT

From what I can see concentricity and size are immaterial. The hole is merely there to allow the pin to clamp a bar into the vee, so position is generated from the vee and the bar within it with the hole in the pin acting as a clamp on the bar.

Clamping the material between two steel bars and using them as guides to saw can result in a very clean cut. I have used this with a jig saw to cut thin stainless steel. It’s a simple cheap solution.

Looks to me that the wheels are lifted clear of the rails, about 30secs in.

Scrub that, forgot lh.

Arceurotrade.

Shop4fasteners, about £13 for 200. Have used them on occasions, useful for larger quantities, which I mostly get. Delivery is within a couple of days or so.

Looking at a company that makes rotary broaches web site, it would seem that it may be possible. The problem may be removing enough metal before broaching to get the broach to cut easily. When broaching a square or any shape that can be scribed in a circle requires a pre drilled hole slightly bigger than the final across flats size. It would be easier to just make a simple broach to form the hole in a press than lathe.

I have had a similar email purporting to be from BT saying my email service will be terminated for some reason. Just delete and ignore.

If it’s secondhand it may be fitted with a removable shank but be aware some have fixed shanks. As Jason says they can be Jacobs taper or screw fit on a few. I think the higher accuracy is for integral shanks where the body is ground to the taper.

Rather than heat anything where the bearing temperature is the limitation, a running bearing shouldn't go much above 60 deg C, try applying a cooling liquid up into the bore of the holder, something like a pipe freezer liquid. The severe alternative would be to lower the head so the spindle itself is resting on metal, put as large a diameter bar into the spindle from the top and hit it with a solid hammer, don't pussy foot with a lead hammer you need a good sudden impact blow to break the taper.

Many years ago I worked with high pressure airless paint spray units, 2500psi. These used a small check valve, the ball material depended on the paint intended to be used, either carbide or stainless steel. We used to put a steel ball in and strike it into the seat to create a perfect seal then build the check valve with a new ball. Some of our other pumps used glass balls in the check valves but these were 1/2” in diameter. Once seated properly the check valves rarely gave any trouble.

Amount to remove is based on the volume of metal that can be removed per kW. Power varies, dependant on the material being cut, have a look at the production cutter suppliers for information such as Sandvik. Then when you have a ball park figure you can start at 50% and see how your machine goes. Less rigid machines will remove a lower of volume than the calculated, more than likely a lot less. There are lots of figures out there but the way to learn is to do it for yoursel.

I also the same as John for simple shelves as well as racking from Machine Mart. Had the racking for a number of years and it is fine. it is one from the cheaper end of the range using thin bent sheet angle for the uprights and I think 10/12mm mdf shelving.

I have had this in the past with known sites. Using Norton on MAC OS, I just disable Norton and download the required file then re initiate it. If you worry you can then do a full scan, never had a problem, it is unusually caused by an out of date certificate.

Advancing the compound also allows you to cut multi start threads so no magic really.

Whilst I can see the point that manufacturers don't want to spend time updating drivers for products that don't last forever, there are some products which get little use and will last a very long time because of it. My scanner was bought in 2008 and to replace now would cost in the region of £1000, not something you want to do just because a suitable driver is not available. HP have just created and sent out firmware updates on their printers which negate the use of non HP inks. I also see that Epson are dropping laser printers from 2005, so any one with one may find it is no longer supported. My inkjet printer runs with a continuous ink system from an independent supplier, where a 125ml of ink is about £30. But like all things these days we are in a throw away society and big buisness relies on use to follow suit.

I use Silverfast, again not free but supports lots of older scanners although it is scanner specific so you need to get the copy for your particular scanner. Looking on the net there are some free alternatives which may work, worth trying some if you don’t want to get a new scanner.

Do you need one for surface finish or sizing. If sizing then have you the measuring kit to accurately measure size and angles.

Jests aside I always assumed it was a UK problem with our plug being bigger than everyone else’s and the cable.

Many old factory floors were finished with wooden blocks on end and worked well lasting for years although I imagine not cheap to do now. I would prefer a wooden surface even now as it is forgiving with anything dropped and always looks good even with oil residues. Perhaps if you have the kit get some suitable square posts and cut them into pieces and lay with a suitable glue to the concrete. Wood is both comfortable to stand on and sound deadening.