Member postings for Dave Halford

There we go, a fully pre wired plug and play kit intended for the unskilled masses against a cheaper kit, but not supplied with a power lead, which means you are supposed to be a competent person to officially install it.

We previously had a DRO (last year I think) display issue when the motor was run caused by bad earths. Worth trying to run the lathe via an extension lead from the house and see if it still does it. It wouldn't be the first time a wall socket had a poor earth.

So far 7BA on a steel through hole. The tips have a cross cut in them, all you do is draw a cross over the hole centre and align the tip and work crosses with each other and give it a quick PSST and the busted tap comes out as sparks. The Plasma jet is about 1mm dia and so far the thread has survived untouched.

The thread on the remaining bits of the tap looks wrecked.

When a tap is going to stick it, goes stiff, then springy, then bang. The trick is to let the pressure off when it goes stiff and try to back it out. Springy means it is a 50/50 chance of me having to reach for the plasma cutter to blow it out the busted bits.

No

The DRO on a lathe does not tell you the size of the work piece, only the travel of the carriage or cross slide assuming a read head runs exactly parallel to the scale and the mountings are not flexing.

That then leaves tool deflection, tool height, head bearing wear, blah blah.

What they are good at is telling you when backlash has moved a supposedly clamped cutting depth and save having to count the number of turns on the carriage/leadscrew handwheel especially on lathes like mine that does not have either graduated. They also confirm that a spring cut is just that though only a mic can tell you if you should be taking one in the first place.

Prevention is better than a cure.

We roast tomatoes in a casserole dish with the lid on, that way you get more juice to pour on your plate where it belongs.

Ps

As the forum Subject Police have not yet attended this party and in the interests of balance.

What's this got to do with Model Engineering?????

Don't try an Aquarium heater, they burn out if used in air.

Andrew,

Finger trouble must try harder.

To be clear Jason is mostly talking about the Metric Minnie drawings.

The shared manifold does apply to original design as well.

Edited By Dave Halford on 12/04/2022 11:34:41

The cutter head takes 12 size tips therefore these that Jak refers to will at least fit , the 04 refers to the cutter tip radius or 0.04mm puts them in the semi finishing / finishing zone, whereas 08 is usually for roughing.

Exactly, and a more general purpose insert as well

from Lathes.co.uk

They charge £26 for a belt + tax and post.

For the more-common Kennedy "Hexacut" Model 60 hacksaw the flat belt is normally 1" (25 mm) wide and 21.8" long (554 mm)

Yours may be different

The bang may have been the Capacitor blowing up.

Machine mart have discontinued this style of lathe.

If 800mm between centres is important to you the long bed will be more flexible.

There's a reason why beds that long are very expensive. You may need to consider something industrial and 2nd hand.

Very likely it was

The old bullet connectors that went into the sleeve joiners will be failing because the sleeve was quite heavy and especially liable to flap around on bikes without rubber engine mounts. If you must keep these for the sake of originality the sleeves need tying down to the frame. You can get Velcro tape for this, it looks like old cloth tape unlike cable ties.

BT used Silicon grease filled crimps to prevent corrosion in street cabinets, you can get tubes of said grease from B&Q in the plastic plumbing section.

Resin cored solder never gave any trouble, however the modern 'non acidic' flux for lead free solder certainly causes rust and greens up copper nicely.

We used to think like that over here, but in the end it doesn't matter, 30mm is a foot and a metre is 3foot 3 inch.

I just wish my 2014 Jeep knew it lives in the world of the big gallon now, the MPG is literally miles off.

Edited By Dave Halford on 09/04/2022 10:42:47

Peoples behaviour with insulation grants can be a little odd.

The first I had was free roof insulation in a 30's house when 4" was fitted.

2nd I had a top up in an 1988 house to bring the 4" up to 6"

3rd I had in the same 1988 house was additional cavity wall beads blown in on top of the existing 1" foam sheet.

None of the neighbours took up any of the offers of this free work paid for by the utilities (and tacked on everyone's bill) at either house. Too good to be true and you can't get owt for nowt???

Bob,

My Grandmother had the same roof hot, as hell in summer and frozen solid in winter.

Having had a big ceiling re plaster boarded properly when all the joint tape fell off it might be possible to fit Batts from the inside and re board and plaster. DIY apart from plastering, but not for the over 70's and pretty messy but a damn sight cheaper than having the roof off.

Used on the end grain like a wooden mallet

Work holding.

Differing heights of insert in the head = duff face mill

Bad inserts.

You don't need parallels for the first cut.

PS hard spots are all shiney.

You can buy the bricks shown in JAS's post quite cheaply in bulk on Ebay so you can build a hearth with higher sides and sometimes with a bit of a roof if you need to using metal brackets and 1 inch screws from the big box DIY stores.

Don't forget big burners need the bigger bottle (13kg minimum) to feed gas at the full rate.

I think most of us are bright enough to pick a safe area inside to braze, but please remember to look up as well as turning a light fitting or the garage door opener into a misshapen blob is both annoying and sometimes expensive.