Member postings for Dave Halford

Looking at the links there is no sign of a plug of any type. I assume Oldiron saw the voltage printed on it and gambled with the odds of success being fair that the 20A input was left from another machine rather than an appalling badly designed machine.

Dimensions in CM

As it's all coming apart.

Use wood to jam the bull gear and a bar across the jaws to loosen the chuck.

You need the tool tip width to be greater than the 'thread' that you can currently producing.

Slow down your cross slide winding hand or use a broader tool tip. Bolt steel is extra stringy stuff and gives a torn finish unless tools are very sharp.

Not much, they aren't very useful.

This one is what I have as well - only with less rust, MT1 centre they never have a makers name on them, but Jones & Shipman has been linked to them.

Can't grow it anymore, though moving the plants to the kids gardens they grow fine. Must be like rose sickness for rhubarb.

The 'no prize' requirement probably explains why your money goes straight through, no doubt the reels still spin.

So from Journeyman's link it could be 10A to 140 or maybe 35A to 145. This is how the specs get screwed up with cut and paste and how your Thai advert mentions TIG when it clearly isn't.

Oldiron has clearly used his so we know the design works.

Just make sure you can get the copper tips for the gun where you are as it doesn't have a Euro plug in gun. You will get a burn-back that wont come out of the tip at some time.

Don't buy the cheapest wire you can find it won't work very well.

It goes back in time too.

There was a day when there were tens of thousands of horses trotting round cites belching out their pollution and not enough old men with buckets and shovels growing rhubarb.

The coin mech should be removable and still work without the rest of the machine so you should be able to see whats going wrong.

If it's a one penny bandit have you tried a 2 pence piece?

What makes you think Americans would what a Cutler is? Or Cutlery? Or what a table knife is for other than cutting things up.

Likewise, my great aunt had 'Seascape' on Marine Parade (the name survived till recently) I used to watch that train from her window. I watched the parts for the Sizewell reactor trundle past from the docks. The big grey crane that used to stand by the bridge was built to unload them.

There used to be a dairy at the dogleg of the Parade where you could watch the bottling process through the windows it's now Potblack.

Edited By Dave Halford on 12/01/2023 11:35:17

It all largely depends on your workshop construction.

Single brick or wooden shed, the recent rain will get through the walls and condense on your colder machines covered or not.

Concrete floor without damp proofing the same thing happens and in this case the plastic covers can make it worse.

Chainsaw oil has a sticky nature and is not easily displaced by water

Competent person? That would be covered here so it seems to be not so woolly after all. Says the man who was a competent person to fit a 13A plug and had a card to prove it. Yes really!

With RFI you may get trouble if the VFD spec says apply RFI controls and you don't and someone complains. If it's not mentioned then you can shrug I guess. There was an RFI issue at Heathrow due to someone unplugging a live CATV feed in a Brentford flat and screwing up aircraft on approach flying straight down the Brentford main drag, as they do.

Indeed The op states WOOD. Admittedly it's not often we get someone from the dark side posting, but even I know that a basic milling machine for wood is called a router and commonly spins a lot faster than our milling cutters.

Andrew,

On picking your belt speed try to keep the motor speed fairly close to the plated 50hz speed as the motor fan is not very effective at significantly lower speeds. You may also need more power for large forstner type bits or hole saws if you.

If you can't get the boss centred under the the chuck of an SX1 to bore it then machining the rim is a little academic.

If it does mounting the flywheel for side milling the rim on either a rotary table if you have one or make a plate with a pivot to suit the boss and a large lever to control the feed. The last suggestion is last resort and a bit fraught with danger and possibly too far outside the box.

Don't climb mill by mistake, the flywheel will have lots of leverage to overload a small table.

Carbide cutter

Steve,

The website is just sales BS, like the link in my post. The PDF is a little more careful. Even in the UK you can apparently legally use a business sales 'puff' which is kinda nearly true. Fanciful claims just put me off so I wouldn't buy it.

I use cheap CCGT inserts, a bit more fragile than real ones, but a ratio of nearly 4:1 on cost makes them worth it. I've also bought stuff from ME shows when I can hold and look at it.

All the large far east large tools that I have bought have been to some degree junk

1. A trolley jack with the jack casting bored so far out of true it broke through the side wall. Worked for a year.
2. Bench Drill with the spline all pitted looking like a dog had chewed it clattered like a machine gun
3. 3 way folder/roller/shear, nothing drilled true, but rolls OK when fettled (a lot)

So I only buy pocket money stuff now and your heater is way too expensive to gamble on.

Steve,

There's more than 40 of them, which version is yours? Given you can't trust the paint colours.

Come to that one of them shows the heater outlet inches away from a sleeping child in a car seat and I don't believe for one minute anyone would take that sales pitch seriously.

You have to click the right photo arrow once to see that one

Edited By Dave Halford on 05/01/2023 17:00:12

Rather we would have a thread concerning 'why can't I drill a half inch hole with a half inch drill in my tailstock'.

That's a bigun, I've got 2 side by side cones on my Rockwell Delta lathe for 1HP.

That might need matched belts all round and ordinary ones are £50 each