Member postings for Dave Halford

From what some of our European members have said model engineering is very limited in Europe, so there's not much demand for machines nor designs.

That's why they invented CANbus

Centec's are currently a good investment.

Quill V heads have gone from £300 to £1500 in 12 years

Even a Centec 2 has gone up £500 and an 'overarm' is now £160

If ever there was a classic case of to big a vice that's it.

I think Gary Wooding has a 3000 rpm version. You just need to double all the plated speeds.

The quill vertical head has doubled the price.

The positives are

The gearbox shaft bungs are undamaged so the gearbox has never failed.

The power traverse claims to have the other gear ratios (they should be sitting in the top of the motor.)

Negatives

Where is the horizontal abor and bearing support.

It's outside.

A hide hammer is pretty dead, as in no bounce nor dents. That said look-at-me-tube would know best.

Not really Mike. Back in 1981 the was a 3/4" scale traction called Modular that was serialised in the mag, but the rear wheels for that were 41/2" dia.

This at Stationroad Steam may help, it looks to be based on a scaled down Minnie looking at the boiler pump pad with some significant simplification.

Won't be the first time something got packaged wrong. If it doesn't smell of vinegar it's not silicone.

I have never had clear liquid out of a tube of sealer (even acrylic) even years out of date.

As the owner of an American Rockwell Delta 10" I can confirm that a Boxford backplate from RDG fits. I don't believe for one minute the spindle thread is Whitworth.

Given the corrosion caused by the ali/water/stainless mix would it be better to use stainless studs and nylocks? The Loctight would keep the water out.

Dry joints can work for years and then give up.

They look more bead like and dull, good joints are bright and spread out on the track.

It's just as likely to be a connector that just needs reseating, even gold contacts can benefit. To be clear reseating means fully remove and replace plugs, I wouldn't go spraying anything on them.

It works on Minnie flywheels.

The Ali is likely to clog the file with out some chalk dust rubbed into the teeth.

Don't you need an arc to set the top slide over for an angle?

Mick,

Ask on here **LINK** There a lot of pro welders on there and they know what they are talking about.

Larry,

Carbide tipped drill will do it. The grub screws tips are probably mushroomed anyway

In which case I would (in fact did on mine) use countersunk allen bolts, hex heads will get in the way.

I'm pretty sure that lathe now self identifies as a boy.

I suspect you should have bought one of the Armstrong pattern tool holders that come in various sizes and were made for Lantern posts, they were all forged and very hard as well + they don't need the silly boat to set the tool height.

Be aware that the Lantern post is also through hardened.

Given that the 4 screws that go into the motor front plate look to be captive they should still be visible in their respective holes.

The question we all have is how did they come undone on their own or are the threads in the motor front plate stripped?

If the seller said 'I've fitted a new belt' it may be he couldn't fit the drive belt so he left the motor bolts out or a modification has been done badly.

A couple of sheets of mdf or cheap ply will sort the grass and gravel