Member postings for MalcB

not tried it on my Harley yet

Was faultless on my Triumph Explorer before I sold it and is now on my MV Brutale. Each time just clamped on the mirror stem and not behind a screen either. My camera is a Sony HDR - AS15.

What camera are you using Nick and where are you clamping?

Have a look at www.techmoan.com review on the Pedco camera clamp. I use one myself and am quite pleased with it so far.

I think Julian sounds right.

Most plain bearing designers who run calculation programmes to work out clearances and bore profile start their runs with an input figure around 0.00125"/inch on diameter ( i.e. somewhere between 0.001" and 0.0015" per inch or metric equivalent ).

On smaller diameters of less than 2" or so it would be down to 0.0010"/inch. The final clearances are calculated based on type of lubrication, bore area which takes in length,, lube pressure, temp, method and viscosity., brg operating temperature etc,etc. At 0.00125/inch most bearings will run but longevity may not be maximised. The conditions mentioned will determine. These figures are not cast in stone and more or even less may be the end result after runs, along with a change in bore profile.

At around 3/4" diameter, 0.002" seems rather excessive and I would have expected it to be less than half of this required as well.

Might be worth getting a quote for the plate supplied with them laser cut. Check with your nearest laser shop.

Thought you must have, but yours is very detailed and good reading.

You are overcoming your issues very well indeed.

Greatly informative Allen and the pictures are brilliant.

You are more than likely well aware of Steves workshop build on the No.1 but if not:

http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/steammodels/stuart1/stuart1index.htm

Theoretically, for accuracy and rigidity a microbore boring bar is probably one of your better options. At 24-26mm diameter you should be able to cover the 2mm range required.

More rigid than some of the lighter boring heads around, but in practice most would finish with one as these kits which are more affordable and easier to get hold of.

Oh how I wish I had the room to be "Un-respected"

Looks very much like Cast iron to me as well. I would just plus one on using JB Weld metal binder, dress it all up with a rotary burr.

Drill, tap and spot face alternate position.

If it is cast iron, then a good preheat and weld will likely do too much damage and scaling.

RDG tools have an odd few gears but Tony at www.lathes.co.uk carries biggest stock of Boxford gears.

.

Daz, Lez, Ketan, thanks for the info guys,

I note your comments and watch this post with interest.

I am not actually without machine shop knowledge having served my time in the tool room, then been a planning/production/ programming engineer and works manager for over 35 years. Conventional, but mainly CNC in all machine shop disciplines, many multi axis with live tooling plus Laser Cutting and white metal lining. Taking semi-retirement a couple of years ago with retention on consultancy and CAD work basis. I was able to just go into work and use machines as I chose if no setup present. Consequently I have had to start up again setting up another home workshop after a break of 15 yrs since having my last one.

I do find that after doing quite a bit of research that the hobby machine/ equipment market ( rightly or wrongly ) is trying hard to replicate/shadow industry in its advancements. The situation with industry is now such that as I was buying new CNC machines, a critical part of the purchase price was always negotiating a much extended warranty and service agreements. Most cases being 5 yrs. The complexity of the equipment and obscenely high spares and labour costs made it a must. In fact a few machines had dedicated phone lines to them for 24hr round the clock monitoring and diagnostics with corrections.

My current bias towards a more simplistic approach to equipment, i.e simple belt driven for a Miller and without or limited use of PCB,s is based on many yrs experience in dealing with equipment that does have these and knowing all their traits. It's not going to be on one or two forum articles.

My research also indicates problems with gear driven hobby machines where gears have failed and some with excessive running noises. The fact that belt drive conversion kits are becoming available for some of these backs this up.

Along with its simplicity and versatility is probably why the Bridgeports have been such a popular choice for a milling machine ( and still is for many ).

As the hobby market equipment gets more complicated then if they want to sell these machines then it's up to suppliers to start pumping out better warranty and service packages

Edited By Malc Broadbent on 01/01/2015 17:30:47

Reading with interest, as currently looking for a milling machine and the Sieg X3 Super was high on my list until another recent price increase which now takes it to £1450 delivered.

The gaps now too close so looks as though will be opting for a belt driven VMC albeit the jury is still out on this.

As I read it, if an X3 motor develops a fault then there is a strong risk of blowing a board as well. This sounds rather an expensive occurance.

Why is there no protection between the motor and the board to stop this happening? Am I missing something here?

Thanks Bob

Thanks John, that's perfect and very quick information. I have full compliment of Whit/ BSF tackle and even BA everything..

Not looked for a user group yet but that's also good and welcome info so will check it out.

Not had a Boxford yet but really looking forward to doing the refurb over the winter.

Hi all, first post I am afraid. I am about to pick up a Boxford Model A with Metric Lead screw, that I have purchased.

I need to do a dismantling job to facilitate loading into my box trailer and need to take a selection of tools

My quick question is:

What fasteners did Boxford use on this machine for its build.

Metric - Unified Or Whitworth?