Member postings for roofer

It takes a brave man to part off with auto feed...ime still at the sea bed in terms of my know how but ide never try it.

EDIT...Ahh just re-read and its facing off not parting.

Edited By roofer on 17/09/2014 18:15:24

Ide like to also add that the flat roofing industry is using fleece backed rubber now too...available in any width or length and this also can be bought upto 4mm thick. Just giving you guys a heads up iff the wants out strip the OP supplies

Went to my local scrap supplier for a root the other day and came back with half a dozen slabs of alloy..about 6"x8" and 1/4" thick. Set a piece onto my milling table to see how it would machine up and was confronted by what i can only describe as hard sticky toffee....this stuff is insanely soft and theres no way you can even drill it without it warming up and going even softer. What the hell have i brought home??? as its only fit for door stops.

Some great posts chaps...thankyou

Yea i was leaning towards something that involved grinding instead of cutting....Cheers Graham.

Ive had a couple of Myfords and iff ime honest i always found them over rated with prices far out matching the goods for machines and tooling....waits for the stones off the myford die hards

Hi Fellas...I made a vertical DRO (poor mans) on my drill/mill today from an old digital vernier gauge to get a bit more accuracy on my hole depths and light milling,this involved drilling a 5mm hole top and bottom of the gauge to fix to the brackets.Now i had a real mare of a time getting these holes through this stuff and took the edge off about 8 bits to get through...My question is whats the best method for drilling really hard grade SS???

yea we use them taking roofs apart as hitting nails has no ill effects unlike TCT blades

Diamond tipped blade in a wood cutting skill saw type maching...you will have to make a spacer up for the saw to blade spindle as they never match, but believe me its a lot more controllable than free hand in a Stihl saw

Ok i have it licked...at some point in its life the saddle gib adjusting screws had been modified from set screws and locking nut to headless bolts that dropped right through the saddle/gib with a nut on each end....ive been adjusting in the past from the top not knowing it was doing nothing but turn the whole lot and not tighten up.Thanks for all the help and advice guys anyway

My old lathe is trying to kill me guys...facing off a bit of cast iron today and the tool seemed to have got dragged into the work and shot the tool post across the workshop.I have noticed this summer that the cutting quality has been a bit hit and miss and after today i know why..the whole saddle can be lifted off the bed by about 2mm and i have the adjusting screws wound right up and i cant get it any tighter onto the bed and i just dont trust the bleeding thing now. Is it worth getting work on the bed or do i just put it out to pasture after all these years This is the link to my model. cheers chaps.

**LINK**

Done this to an old Range Rover classic with great sucess too.

Oopps sorry Chris i meant 60F

Always try to maintain a "warm roof void" and by this i mean there can be no cross heat transfare from the outside of roof to inside as in winter this will cause condensation.The best form of roof insulation is the likes of kingspan tight up against the underside of the roofing boards to eliminate the inside heat contacting the outside heat and all condensation will be history.We always insulate on the outside and lay the Built up felt roof on top of that as then the underside of the roofing boards will always remain at room temperture even in minus degree temps..mininmun of 75mm insulation thickness for this to happen though.I have a 60 sq meter workshop at home with its own central heating (yea lucky me i hear you say LOL) and during the coldest winter days it never drops below 60 degree cent because i have 120mm kingspan on the roof. Hope this helps.

Making 1 good 2 KVA generator out of 2 machines...swapping bits and crank from a Honda 5.5HP and ended up with a very good twin outlet 110V machine. Bought 2 of em for £20 from my local scrapyard.All this after a days roofing mind

Do remember though its a ting tong special and ive had my fair share of far East precision and its merits of things not fitting.

Thanks for the warm welcome guys...ime in the middle of trying to get the vibrations out of my old Henry milnes lathe atm. after checking the headstock spindle and seeing thats fine i do believe ive gone a bit greedy on the chuck and it may be a bit over sized Ile start another thread this week and see what you guys think. BTW ime not touting for work but iff anyone has shed or workshop roof problems and not to far from CH63 ide be happy to try help for a cuppa and custard creams..

EDIT....ime not a fan of showing my real names on inter web so please accept a name change..cheers

Edited By roofer on 25/08/2014 21:17:47

Fantastic thread...many thanks.

Let the wife go shopping then nip inside and bang the piston into dishwaher...iff you dont have a dishwasher like myself then small saucepan with engine oil and let it simmer for 15 mins on cooker. When the wife comes back from shops soaking wet and laden down with 6 plastic bags full of food just make sure your not around

Sorry guys,yes your right a rough profile would help. 53 years old self-employed flat roofer (35 years in the game) that pays my bills.My real passion is my workshop with a lathe..miller...welders ect and i love to bring old light machinery and tools that people have thrown out back to life and just general sitting drinking coffee looking at my collection of tools. based in north west/cheshire area. ok thats enough info for now i have to catch up on all the latest new posts.