Member postings for Neil Lickfold

If the tool is sharp, you can push through 0.001 inch depth of cut to about 0.002 inch depth of cut, from 0.002 inch diameter to a max of 0.004 inch diameter. Metric 0.05mm to 0.1mm max on diameter. The blade or cutting wants to be around 5 deg or so . If you make it too much like a chisel, it will pull the cross slide in and try to keep making a deeper cut. Having the tool face , the one in line with the bore, if that is set so it is about 1 deg clearance, this will also help to stop the tool digging in. Any material taken out before hand, dramatically reduces the cutting loads. Even if you hand file a rough slot , and then use the tool in the lathe for finishing the key slot works well. HSS works really well for lathe key slot cutters.

Neil

As you mentioned only a manual machine, it will be a lathe with milling attachments and full digital readout, on all axis with the tailstock quill included with an indexing head as well. The lathe spindle becomes the mill spindle, cross slide becomes the X axis, vertical slide becomes the Y axis, and the saddle movement becomes the Z axis.

If you were going cnc, then the answer will be a milling machining centre with a 4th axis. That will do most of what a lathe can do within reason, as well as all the milling functions in 1 machine.

Neil

Even salt has a use by date now days.

Some oils do go off, get rancid over time. Not noticed it with any cutting oils since 1984, which is my oldest cutting oil, and rocol paste are both fine, but not much left now.

It looks to me, that it is someones home made engine case, and has used commercial piston liner assembly and carb. They may have made the crank and prop driver as well. But there were several makers who used the flat on the crank for the prop driver, instead of the tapered collet.

Neil L

There are some modern face mills that take a negative position insert, with a positive cutting geometry. The ones with the un even spacing are just awesome. These newer ones, have the 4 sided inserts, so will make a 45 deg approach, and the inserts have 8 cutting edges. They are quiet as well. Then there is the ones that side cut. The newer versions of these are both un even spaced, with a helical outside geometry , allowing for side cutting or going down a wall. These normally only have 2 cutting edges per insert. Kennametal make a great series and so does Mitsubishi, and Iscar. All 3 brands are available in the USA. Sadly the inserts are sold in boxes of 10, that will last a long time. The milling inserts are very well suited for interupted cutting. You can make a holder to take either of the inserts from the insert milling cutters. A common theme, is to make a holder that uses the un used edges from the vertical insert cutter that uses on 2 edges. Turned 90 deg, it can be used as a fly cutter on the edge that is no longer used. They used to make a face mill that used these inserts that way. Not sure if they still do or not.

Hi Reg,

The face of the spindle (where the chuck and face plate seat against) should be zero with a dial indicator. If this is indeed zero, then the next area to look at is the concentricity of the thread itself on the nose spindle. Setting the lathe to screw cut the thread, 12TPI Whitworth I think, but check. Then place a DTI onto one of the flanks, and as you turn and the carriage feeds at the same time, check the concentricity of the thread form. If it is not concentric, it will cause all sorts of inconsistent mounting problems. The thread can be quite loose and still be effective. You can recut the form with a 55 deg included threading tool to correct this error.

To reset all the clearances etc on the lathe and re scraping or getting the surfaces reground, can take quite a bit of work and time, and attention to the detail is a must.

Neil

Another way is to use a collet chuck, that has a radial index, and is placed in the same z position.The collet with the work piece can be removed, tried on the part, returned and carry on with the thread cut.On a 25mm shank holder, if you get it to a radial position with in 0.1mm, the pitch position error is negligible.

Neil L.

Great that you can take pictures as you go, I always forget, or don't have my phone handy etc. Don't have my phone in the shed when making parts, that way I don't get distracted. Looks really nice and coming along well. Looking forward to the video of it running. That will be real music to me.

Neil

I think one reason for no bidding, is the lack of clarity of what you are getting for your money. It looks like a car engine that all there , but not assembled. People are just suspicious when it is not shown , and not all itemised.

I would not bid on it, without knowing more about what you are actually getting for your money, and what is the actual condition of the slides etc.

Neil

Gun drills are an illusion to me. The trick is to get the balance of the cutting force, from the centre to the outer, so that it want s to stay on centre. So they have support lands etc to guide the drill. The sharpening of a gundrill to drill straight is quite specific for that drill, and material etc. Now days, there is a new very high speed drill, that out dates gun drilling, with a catch. It needs a very accurate spindle, and very high through coolant pressure to work.

Gun drills can be hand re sharpened , but twist drills, some can sharpen them really well, and others not.

The best firm but removable pins, are tapered pins. The reamer can be a simple D bit reamer to a taper that you can easily reproduce. You can also take a tapered pin, and make it into a D bit, assuming that you hardened it of course. Anything from 1.5 deg per side to 3 deg per side does work very well.

Neil

Back to the OP, quite a lot of high volume work was done on multi spindle lathes, with 6 to 7 stations. Each station did a particular operation, often with form tools , or gang tools or other tooling that was made specifically for that part being produced. These were either capable of hand loaded and unloaded parts, or bar feed with parts coming off.

Then the other end detail would be done as a second operation, hand loaded into a basic 2nd op machine, or into a 2nd op semi auto machine. The 2nd op machines, don't have the bar feeders on them, and require the operator to activate the start sequence. Most of the USA machines, needed 2 hand to simultaneously button start.

So in your example, without seeing it, the threaded end would be done 1st, then the end with the hole would be done in a dead length stop collet, for the hole and other detail and the final length as well.

Neil

I once saw an old WW2 American cam auto machine that was making the 1st part of a .303 shell casing. It was just as it was last used in 1945 when production stopped. It was the last one, that the owners Grand father did not sell off or scrap or break down the set up of. It was as I was told, his personal piece of history. It had carbide tooling that was top secret in those days. Anyway, it drilled, did the hole for the primer, turned the out side, did the inside , the ring groove and parted off, all in 6 seconds. Makes on heck of a lot of noise and fluid and stuff goes ever where. It ran cutting oil, and they had what looked like an old washing machine, that spun the chips to reclaim the oil from the swarf. I was really impressed and they ran it that day for us to see. This was back in 07. Similar to the video, had a super rapid turret indexing, on the inline turret, and the back turret. It had a similar vertical part off , and a front tool that did not index, but profiled. This did the retaining grove.

The shells were not necked at this stage, that was done latter, along with the former for the primer hole final sizing.

Serial taps out here, is the taps that different thread pitch diameter. Yes they have a single ring being the 1 undersize and the 2 rings being the 2nd undersize tap. Usually the smallest thread pitch diameter is on the 1 ring tap.

Most taps will be like M6 X 1 H7 with the H7 being the thread limit range of that particular tap.

I just use one of those inline Vacuum cleaner ones. What I like about it, is the clearish container. It is easy to take off and empty. If I suck up a little part, it is not so hard to find.

I used to have a bigger 25 L bucket with cyclone thing. But prefer the smaller unit that is easier to handle.

Neil

This is what I have now. My actual one is made by Hoover, this is a knock off, but is the same thing.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32mm-Dust-Interceptor-Vacuum-Bag-Cyclonic-Separator-Collector-Dust-Outer-Filter/32669606014.html

Edited By Neil Lickfold on 31/08/2018 10:54:09

I have a selection of bolts and capscrews with thick washers. They are in 5mm length increments. Keeping things clean is a key to consistency when clamping, especially the T slots, so that swarf does not damage the underside of the clamping area.

Neil

I have found that the hole size of the wheel and that of the shaft, is too loose. I suggest either turning a better inner bush, for the wheel, or using some form of tape, to make up the diameter to a better fit. Once the wheel is in position and clamped it will be good. Cheap wheels need the sides dressing as well as the diameter.

There are many shims for TNMG holders. So a brand of holder is needed. You can probably by a cheap brand holder for the price of some shims these days.

Carbiidenz I think is the best there is. Particularly because he will sell inserts one at a time, and there is next day delivery as well. Has a lot of things and runs specials every now and then.

Neil

A great topic Andrew. I have seen where some use a single (pivot) tennon to adjust the vice on. Like you say , it takes less that a few minutes to set to within 0.01mm over the length of the vice. To get better that 0.01mm over the length of the vice, it needs to be clamped with a reference of some descript.

https://www.carbidenz.co.nz/v-coil-thread-repair-set-m3-x-.5.html

he also has spare coils in 1.5D and 2.5D

https://www.carbidenz.co.nz/v-coil-thread-repair-insert-m3-x-.5-x-2.5d-10-pack.html

Very good to deal with. If the order is in by 4pm, it will arrive by courier the next morning.

I could not find spare coils on Jcar website. The V-Coil is German made kit and a very good quality product.

Neil