Member postings for Tim Stevens

Cancel my last message as regards Howards solution. I'm sorry, but I am still stuck. If anyone is still there ... ? ... please re-consider my question - thanks.

And if anyone- including Howard - can draw me a diagram of Howard's version, I will reconsider that, too.

Regards, Tim

For Noel: the vehicle is a 1928 Lea Francis, and it came from the factory with a system which is no longer legal or sensible. That's why I did not mention it. For example, charging control was by turning the dynamo on or off - no other choice.

For Howard: thanks - I think you have solved it, and I will go and play with wires. You may be interested to know that the idea of ball-ended supports for taper turning (etc) is explored in my book 'Workholding for Machinists'.

Regards, Tim Stevens

The system was working, but untidy, and I took it apart without noting exactly how the two microswitches, and relays, were connected. The two relays are simple ON/ON switches, each switch operated by a tiny solenoid (as normal). The control lever operates two microswitches, each with C, NO, and NC, one at each end of its travel. And it worked well, but the wiring was untidy (and all the same colour), so I thought I would improve it. But in the six years since I built it I have forgotten how it should be connected.

Thje dip switch must only work when the headlamps are on, and gives two positions, main and dip beams.

The flasher switch turns the main beam on at all times when the car is in use, and when Flash is operated with dip on, the dip beam goes out while the main flash is on.

Two relays - one for dip fed from the fused headlamp switch, the other for flash fed from the ignition switch via a fuse.

A sketch would be ideal, and saves a lot of writing - Can you help, please?

Regards - Tim

I am avoiding use of the term 'simple' as it has me foxed. And sorry for the untidy headline - I can't edit it.

Edited By Tim Stevens on 15/11/2022 21:10:43

It seems we have another confusing term, or two, to add to my list.

Brushless doesn't just mean it's got no brushes, it means it also runs on DC.

And the drive for my lathe, which has a brushless 3-phase motor, is not called brushless, but an Induction Motor - an expression which actually covers almost all electric motors, from Faraday onwards, and tells us very little to distinguish one type of motor from another. It is fortunate indeed that electricians don't write dictionaries.

It seems that it is all a plot to prevent people who try to speak and write accurately, so they can be understood, even by those whose English is a second or third language, from succeeding. Well done, I say - but when I say well I mean a deep hole with water in, and done is what you call toast when it is brown.

Cheers, Tim

A Q for Jason - can you explain what is the distinction you make between a brushless motor (for a lathe) and a 3-phase motor with inverter?

I am aware that a brushless motor can be made for other phase details that three - but I'm sure that is not the factor in question here.

I was thinking (until today) that the two descriptions which you distinguish here are just different ways of saying the same thing.

Regards - Tim

PS my Colchester has a motor without brushes and is run from an inverter via three wires of different colours (none of which is earth).

Edited By Tim Stevens on 10/11/2022 15:57:59

There are factors which do not seem to have been considered: The evidence shows (a) that damp (at least) has affected this machine, and no check seems to have been made about other (hidden) areas of steel which might also be affected, or on the effect on the switchgear and any electronic parts. Both these will require examination when both parties are present, and any subsequent acceptance by the new owner should be conditional - in writing - on any hidden faults being sorted without further question.

and (b) that Warco (if they are indeed the supplier) have not complied with their own stated pre-delivery procedure. This makes it doubly important that Warco are invited to be 100% involved in any checks and rectifications. If another supplier, then it depends on what claims they make about checks, etc.

I speak from experience in the warranty dept of a major manufacturer. Hope this helps

Cheers, Tim

Yet again we have a claim that something is 'definitely illegal' and the next message says '... perfectly acceptable'. They cannot both be right.

So, please - everyone - if you make a claim about some detail being illegal (or similar) it should be no trouble to add a reference to the relevant law. The web is full of wrong, unsubstantated claims, and the habit has already spred to parliament. You cannot help people by getting these things wrong - you only spread confusion.

Cheers, Tim

Hi Bill

I assume that the battery is ordinary - ie usual for a car (not Lithium or Edison, etc). The answer really depends on what has been happening to the battery in the last six months. If it was last charged, and worked OK, two months ago or less, then I would look for faults in your wiring, and the 'standard' charger you are using. If it has been - dare I say it ? - neglected, and has been standing in the flat (discharged) condition for weeks then it is likely to be scrap. The plates will have become coated in lead sulphate, which unfortunately does not play the games we rely on for charging and providing power. If you had a modern, more expensive (clever) charger, you might regain some charge-ability by connecting ther charger and leaving it on for 24 hours or so. This might put some (not much) life back in. If so - if it will light a headlamp bulb for a few minutes - then allow it to discharge until the bulb shows a red glimmer only, and charge up again with the clever charger for another 24 hours. Do this repeatedly for a week (or longer if you can), and you might restore the battery - at least enough to start the car - assuming that everything else is in bang-on condition - clean connections, thick wires, good earths, fresh petrol - and the first thing you should do is run down to the battery shop and buy a new battery. And get a modern charger while you are there, and use it daily.

Hope this helps - Tim

These double-ended screws are not 'differential screws' in the normal, english, meaning. For us, the meaning is wrong. This is not by any means the exception with products offered from elsewhere in the world. Try convincing our US cousins that a bolt is not the same as a screw - and they speak english ... !

I suspect that some of the products we need do not have a specific name in some of the far-flung languages (just as the French have 94 different sauces and we have custard or gravy). But mainly the bloke that cobbles the adverts together has only a modest grasp of our language, and no access to relevant technical dictionaries, or the time to look stuff up. So, he looks for something similar and that will do.

Cheers, Tim

Hello - me again

I agree with Luker, and in particular with his view that ' The notion that ‘home made’ is not as good as ‘professional’ is (in my humble opinion) an absolute fallacy.'

I was not intending to imply that Luker should not rely on his 'home made castings' but more to bring home the notion that others, with less experience, less skill, and perhaps too, less access to facilities, might be inclined to try their hand at similar components, not realising that while what was shown was indeed 'home made', there was rather more to it than that.

Best wishes to you all

Tim Stevens

Just a thought - I would be reluctant to use anyone's home-cast risers. The steering controls can be loaded severely whenever a quick swerve (etc) is required (as well as every time the bike falls over). Has any comparitive testing been done to be sure that hone-cast risers are up to scratch?

A further point - the slotted clamp is not as strong as using a pad bolt in a non-slotted hole. Pad bolts are neater too.

A pad bolt is a stud threaded at one end, with a cut-out in the side, towards the other end, to match the radius of the steering tube where it will clamp. Tightening a nut on the thread pulls the radius hard against the fork tube, and pulls the opposite side of t he hole tight, too - so plenty of friction.

Not my idea - used on Vincent front forks 1950 - 56. (but they were not teles).

Regards

Tim Stevens

The advert I described appeared in an email message sent out by the publishers on 25/10 with the heading:

No tricks, just TREATS! Subscribe from just £10!

If no-one else was sent the message, I can copy the whole thing for you, but I'm sure you'd rather I didn't.

I agree that the description applied to MEW was an error - indeed the same description was also applied to other titles. But it brings to mind an expression, as we have recently chaged proprietors, about frying pans and fires. i've always been a cynic.

Regards, Tim

Yes, that is what their latest advert says about MEW.

Regards, Tim

When you get there, remind them that joining metals is BRAZING, and BRAIZING is what you do to beef.

Cheers, Tim

Edited By Tim Stevens on 23/10/2022 17:05:16

It's a funny old world. My car has a starter which runs on DC which is turned on and off by a commutator, and the current through each of the windings alternates. It relies on Induction, but it is not an induction motor. It also has brushes which are not in any sense of the word brushes. The car has points which are not pointed but must be kept flat. The power cycle has four phases, one of which is called induction, but it is not an induction motor or a four phase motor. I mend it with a soldering iron which is made of copper. The generator has three brushes, and this system is called 'Constant Current Regulation'. Its main characheristic is that the current is not constant or regulated.

And now I am further confused having read your responses - for which I am grateful, as they show that my concerns about the meanings of words are justified.

And those of you with an interest in typography will note that this response is not justified at all.

Regards, Tim

Edited By Tim Stevens on 23/10/2022 13:52:48

Thanks for that, Michael. As long as I know (now) that the motor is not in reality a DC motor it makes sense. Life is full of words and expressions which are in reality confusing shorthands.

And how about the too-common term 'pre-prepared'? - Or even 'pre prepared in advance' ...?

Cheers, Tim

Just so I understand what is going on ... the term Brushless DC Motor seems to me (I'm guessing) to be shorthand for a Brushless 3 phase motor driven from a DC supply using some sort of Variable Frequency Device - perhaps bult into the motor package.

Am I right? If not, please explain!

Thanks, - Tim

Ok, so we know, now, that there is a book dealer out there who does not play by the rules. Well, fancy that - very useful. While we all wonder who it might be, several of us will be ripped off by the same person.

This does not help. It frustrates, and it annoys.

Just my opinion, of course. What is the forum for, I wonder?

Tim

In my view (having worked for one or two engine makers) the OEM or factory wanted the head so that it could not be used again in the same sort of claim. And, of course, as evidence to back up the claim that the dealers would be making in their bit of the guarantee agreement. Which itself might be backed by insurance, which again requires solid evidence.

Incidentally, what turns out to be porosity can start off as alloy inclusions in the casting metal - which turn out to be slightly different from the surrounding metal, causing electrolytic corrosion in the cooling water channels, and so metal, or inclusion, eventually dissolves completely. This can take a very long time - some vintage cars suffer now, but were never a problem before WW2, for instance. Modern alloys are better, and so are modern antifreeze mixes, but we will only know how much better when the engines are still being used 90 years later. Fat chance, I hear you say!

Cheers, Tim

There is a risk with using a hex-ended tool to turn the chuck in this way - the load on the scroll which tightens the chuck jaws is always on the same section of the scroll. If the srcoll is damaged (as well it might be if the chuck really is tight) you will have problems when you tighten, or loosen, the jaws from this position. And the contact area against each jaw is fairly small, so distortion is likely.

With this design of chuck, with no bolt heads sticking out front or back, it is not easy to suggest an alternative method -sorry.

Cheers, Tim