Member postings for Jon Gibbs

John,

I'll take the armchair challenge

It looks as if 2, 6 & 8 aren't referred to at all.

...but it would seem reasonable to assume that the separations between 9 & 1 are the same as between 1 & 5 and 5 & 9. Likewise 1&3, 3&5, 5&7, 7&9, 9&11 and 11&1 and 1&4, 4&7, 7&10 and 10&1 wouldn't it?

This makes me think that the only number missing is 12 and that otherwise there are 12 equal divisions.

If instead of starting at 1 you number them from zero, the first row is 0, 4, 8 (& 12 i.e. 0)

the second is 0, 3, 6, 9 (& 12 i.e. 0)

and the last row is 0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 (& 12 i.e. 0)

Edit: I think this is precisely what Brian said in effect. So +1 for that. I was still compiling my post.

HTH

Jon

Edited By Jon Gibbs on 22/02/2017 09:32:31

I'm not sure if I'll get shot down for this but I have a Golden Goose Jacobs clone chuck from Axminster which I've always been pleased with.

Still Chinese but pretty good TIR at low cost.

16mm variant...

**LINK**

and 13mm variant...

**LINK**

Hope this helps

Jon

There's always Renaissance Wax for the museum pieces as well...

**LINK**

Jon

I'm sure it's tongue in cheek but is alluding to the conservation of angular momentum -  I * omega.

Increasing the inertia, I = mass * r^2, will reduce omega, angular velocity - It's the same effect as the spinning ice skater extending and retracting limbs and changing rotational speed.

Trouble is that even if you could move the molten iron at the core out to the surface the gravity would collapse the whole lot in again to roughly the same inertia but I'm sure JA knows this already.

Edited By Jon Gibbs on 17/02/2017 09:43:29

Edited By Jon Gibbs on 17/02/2017 09:49:30

Edited By Jon Gibbs on 17/02/2017 09:51:38

It's certainly not pretty but the most reliable IMHO would be an external braided strap given that the front forks of a bike have such limited travel and therefore have limited wiping/cleaning action.

Something like this attached to forks and frame...

Easily inspected for wear.

Jon

When I did my apprenticeship the instructor in the machineshop used to sit at a big raised up mahogany desk at the front with just a two pint oil can on it.

If he saw you up to no good, usually abusing one of the machines, there'd be a shout followed by a few feet of oil heading your way!

Edited By Jon Gibbs on 14/02/2017 10:55:48

Camelia oil is the traditional Japanese treatment against rust for woodworkers.

So the origin is much closer to your neck of the woods than here

Jon

These are Starrett calipers but it might give you a clue... **LINK**

HTH

Jon

Sorry I didn't realize...

...but therein might be the reason?

The grass is definitely not greener elsewhere (and that's figuratively speaking - not just because we get more rain

Jon

Keep spreading the word Fizzy and leave the NW to those of us who live here - that's absolutely fine by me

Jon

(27 years south of the M4 and glad to be home )

Yes - sorry. I perhaps should have used the more brand neutral - "green pan scrub"

I was inspired by watching one of MrPete222's youtube videos on rust removal and bought some anhydrous citric acid off ebay at £9 for 1kg.

Last night I tried experimenting on some badly rusted parts last night and the results were really impressive. Scrubbed the items with detergent first to remove all oil and grease and then left them in the citric acid solution for a couple of hours and then cleaned lightly with webrax.

Definitely recommended if you haven't tried it.

Jon

Hi Mick,

Have you tried cncpoorboy on ebay?

His prices are very reasonable if he's got what you're looking for.

HTH

Jon

Hi Claus,

This Youtube video might give you the information you're looking for... **LINK**

HTH

Jon

Well, I received a couple of lengths of HSS from Drill Service - good service.

I was very pleased to see that one is Momax i.e. M42 but the other is labelled "Swiftic 206 HSS".

Does anyone know what "Swiftic 206 HSS" is please?

It doesn't seem as grindable as M2 but I'm not sure what it is. Despite several attempts Google hasn't revealed any clues.

Many thanks

Jon

The trouble with plywood is that even for finger joints, half of the surface will be end-grain on each finger leading to only about 25% side-grain to side-grain which is really needed for good PVA joints.

A lot of segmented woodturners sware by Tightbond 2 or 3 because it works ok on end-grain.

Have you thought about biscuit joints or loose [hard]wood tongues? - that'll give you a lot more side-grain contact for PVA type glues than finger joints or dowels IMHO.

[Edit: Just thought that there is a potential problem with separate tongues in that there may be a chance for them to break-out of the ends and so not a brilliant idea either ]

HTH

Jon

Edited By Jon Gibbs on 26/01/2017 11:49:15

The KJD6 NVR switch is a standard item.

Just buy another one and fit it and you're job's a good'en.

HTH

Jon

I believe one is a conventional oiler and the other is for Molyslip.

Jon

Another thought is whether the number of teeth on the bevel gear of the chuck is divisible by 3.

If it isn't divisible by 3 then there will be a slight mechanical advantage difference between the 3 holes with the same rough key orientation?

Just a thought but perhaps over-thinking it?

Jon

Please forgive this stupid question but...

I can see how this is practically achieved in a pillar-drill or mill, where the chuck can be easily reoriented, but what about when the chuck/arbor is rammed and locked into the lathe tailstock taper?

Do you still tighten in every position then too?

Many thanks

Jon