Member postings for derek hall 1

I have no idea what it is either.

But I know that sometimes humour doesnt travel well occasionally.!

For a master class on this try looking on YouTube for "The Turbo Encabulator" ....I found it funny but my daughter did not ....she has a degree in history and doesnt understand "engineery things" and thought it was real .....some of the technical terminology used is wonderful and now a "ventilated grostling iron" can be added to my technical vocabulary!!!

Regards to all

Derek

I agree with Keith

GHT describes this also in the the ME in the mid 1970's. I have to say I have considered this upgrade on my Myford S7 (a kit of material and gears is available).

However it is a bit concerning to hear you mention this backlash. I guess it is the gearing modification inside the housing of the topslide....introducing this backlash due to the modification is not something I would consider a good thing.

However GHT in my view designed some very good kit and I would think that the backlash seen, may be due to inaccurate build by the maker not a design fault, but I stand to be corrected...

Regards to all

Derek

Hi Neil

I am considering entering the competition, with my meagre offering.

Hopefully there been a good response this year...

Regards

Derek

The dog ate my homework.....

Honestly this 3d drawing stuff you all post on here is fantastic.

I did a mechanical engineering apprenticeship in the 1970's and never got further than drawing spur gears in isometric projection with H2 pencils, set squares and other drawing instruments......

Regards to all

Derek

Hello Graham,

I am also the owner of an Emco FB2, and it also has a tell tale oil leak, never thought it was due to positive pressure in the gearbox.

I laughed when I read your proof with a finger of a rubber glove though!

I would really appreciate a list of articles describing the modifications that you have done on your FB2.

Kind regards

Derek

Hi guys

I built the George Thomas UPT for the sheer pleasure of making a tool that could hold taps square down 12ba without breaking them, use it with the drilling attachment and now have just made the attachment for clock bushing.

It's a tool that is truly universal and a superb design, looks good and of course designed by one of the "masters".

I enjoy making well designed tools, some may not like making tools to make tools others see making a tool or jig as getting in the way of the latest project or model, each to their own of course!

But I made the UPT as I saw it as the long term solution to non square tapped holes and made the basic tool many years ago. I would not be without it...

Kind regards to all

Derek

If you are prepared to do a project that will do away with issues of "is my tap square"?, then you cannot do any better than invest in some time and effort to build George Thomas Universal Pillar Tool.

A superb bit of kit, I now rarely need to tap with a tap wrench and have never needed to use the mill or drill in an effort to keep the tap upright.

Regards

Derek

I am pretty sure that if you need to cut off the factory fitted moulded plug from a domestic appliance for any reason and fit a replacement plug you can invalidate any warranty .....

But I stand to be corrected

Regards to all

Derek

A previous employer of mine sent me to do my 1 day abrasive wheel course on 21st June 1979. ....despite me asking for the day off as it was my 21st birthday, I still had to attend...

Thanks again for your replies.

Magnetic hold down method similar to the advanced version seems the way to go to add a bit of versatility.

Regarding the table moving as it's only relying on the plastic ball and one countersunk screw is an excellent point, I wonder if the problem exists if the ball is metal as in Danny's example.

I guess any design has areas for improvement

Regards

Derek

Thanks guys for your replies.

Great photos and really useful information . As I have an 8 inch grinder I will have to do a few mods to the height. Regarding this, is the height measured from the table to the base to coincide with the centre line of the grinder? or is near enough ok?

I am also going to fit a cup wheel instead of the normal straight wheel.

Yet another job i am going to do is to use the method by "stub mandrel" on this site to modify the way the wheels are mounted on the spindle - currently it uses a 1mm step on the shaft to ensure that an 8 inch grinding wheel runs true! Something similar was recommended by Harold in his book "Tool and cutter sharpening".

What a great forum this is, so much help and information....!

Regards

Derek

Hi everyone

I am looking at building the simple grinding rest by Harold Hall, as opposed to the more involved and longer to build advanced version.

So my question is how did the build go and how are you finding it during use?

Although the advance version looks more versatile I have looked at both designs and the simple version seems to do all that I want such as grinding lathe tools etc

Looking forward to your replies

Regards to all

Derek

Hi at the risk of hijacking the thread, I would like to ask Jason to clarify what he thinks is a small drill that is too small for sharpening?

I have discovered in my workshop lots of small (less than 2mm) drills but despite using a micrometer on the shank (yes I know it's not accurate!.), I am not sure if they are a number, metric or imperial size!

I have always used centre drills or just drilled via a dot punch but I suppose these new fangled spotting drills are the answer to more accurate starting of the drilling process I have never used them....but of course the drill has to start in the right place whatever process you use to mark out where the hole has to go.

Regards to all.....this is a great forum!

Derek

Thanks Neil that has cleared up some of the confusion I have.

I am now going to treat myself to a digital and paper subscriptionto MEW!

Regards

Derek

And that's why unfortunately I wont go the digital way.....too many variables.

In this day and age why is it not all viewable via pdf......or is that too simplistic?

As I understand it mytimemedia you can see the archives but difficult to read and impossible to print a hard copy whereas pocketmags you can... but not if you use windows 7, but seems to work ok on apple stuff....

To be honest this really needs sorting doesnt it?. Most of us would sooner be "lathe-ing" than wasting hours fiddling around with a pc/laptop/tablet trying to access something that should be easy and that we have paid for.

Rant over.....sorry!

Regards to all

Derek

Well said Neil and big thanks to Jason.

Welcome to all newbies who have joined.

I would also like to thank CUP Alloys, Chronos and Arc euro trade - those suppliers that advertise on this site and give us fantastic support.

I have recently placed orders with these companies and have found them all helpful and friendly. I have received my "bits and pieces" that I ordered with no problems despite the current virus related issues that are currently causing much disruption for us all.

Great job Neil in making us all welcome, well done!

Regards to all

Derek

Anyone recall the school pink custard?

Here is another one Angel Delight...

Regards

Derek

Hi all

I am dithering on taking up the latest offer to subscribe. One of the attractive things for me though is access to the archive, and possibly the potential to print off articles....and that in itself seems problematic.

It does appear though that there are difficulties with reading or accessing the archives, I am not very computer literate and I am reasonably confident that I would not have the skills, or the patience! to be able to resolve it. I find trying to resolve silly issues with computers a frustrating time wasting exercise to be honest. There seems to be too many variables that needs to be in place before a user can access these archives, it must be a simple way isn't there?

I am in the process of culling my old copies of ME and extracting useful information that interests me. I am not sure if I want to start collecting more hard copies (even if it is MEW!) Hence the choice of digital format plus archives is my preferred option but......

Regards to all

Derek

Fantastic response guys thanks.

I have Tubal Cains book...why didn't I look in there first?......doh

Much clearer now. I guess its metric coarse by default if the instruction/drawing says to "tap M5" for example, otherwise it would be specifically stated if the metric thread pitch was to be any different ...say "metric fine (MF?)

Thanks once again everyone

Stay safe

Regards

Derek

Hi,

I am a little bit confused with the metric taps and die choices available. I have loads of "imperial/English" taps and dies and am more familiar with feet and inches to be honest from my apprenticeship days long ago. But more and more drawings are referring to metric "stuff".

Now I don't mind metric stuff - I have a metric Emco mill, and an "English" Myford!

So to my question.

If a drawing says tap or thread for M5, does it actually mean M5 x 1mm pitch or M5 x 0.8 pitch etc.....? For example Tracey Tools show that there are 5 different pitches with an M5 thread.......and I thought metric was supposed to be easier!

I am sure there is a table showing the preferred/standard metric tap sizes and pitch for Model Engineers somewhere....otherwise do I just use the Metric "Coarse" range? (it seems so much easier with the "old" stuff e.g. tap 2BA or thread 3/8" BSF for example.......)

Hopefully one our our resident metric thread persons on here will be able to advise which of the 5 available choices of M5 I should buy - in fact what metric taps and dies should I buy and what pitch?

Confused

Derek