Member postings for Redsetter

There should be a locknut of some kind to hold the small gear on the shaft, but you can probably get away with a thread locking fluid, at least temporarily.

If you have the original tool clamp, it should be possible to machine the base of your square toolpost to get it down to centre height for the 10mm tools. Best done in a 4 jaw chuck, but can be managed in a 3 jaw. Quite a good project to learn on.

I doubt if a mini lathe toolpost will fit without a modification of some sort, so it is worth seeing what you can do with what you already have.

William, if you poke a finger through the rectangular hole at the tailstock end of the bed, you should be able to feel the inner end of the pin hole.

If it is the original pin in the original hole it goes under the bush, not through the centre.

Edited By Redsetter on 09/05/2020 11:50:52

I think you will find that the drilling for the pin passes through the bearing housing, and then through the front face of the bed, so that in theory at least, the pin can be punched right through.

My ML10 is certainly like this, but please check yours before trying it.

I no longer have a copy of "The World of Model Railways" but I think it was written by Joseph Martin, not Martin Evans.

You clearly know your way around machine tools. You can probably make a CL430 work for you, but as others have suggested, go and have a good look at one before getting too enthusiastic about it. There must be plenty of secondhand ones out there which haven't had much use and can't be worth a lot, so that might be an option.

According to my 1969 Stuart catalogue that is a 500 boiler, suggested for the S50, beam engine and steam hammer.

The 501 is the same length but 2 3/4" diameter, and that is suggested for the 10V and 10H.

I think suck it and see is the answer. It may do what you want. It will surely make enough steam as the same burner is used in both boilers, but it will need water more frequently.

I think we are all wondering what are you actually trying to do, and is that really the best way of doing it?

I have always bored these first, then slit, and not had a problem.

The 1/16 radius at the root of the flange is important, as that is what centralises the wheelset on the track.

The tread does not have to be tapered - a parallel tread will work equally well, possibly better,

The radius at the tip of the flange is not critical, on wheels of this size it is mainly cosmetic and can be formed freehand with a file.

I have, unfortunately, been involved with vintage and classic cars all my working life.

I am willing to bet that most of the great and the good who you consulted are enthusiasts and not engineers. They are probably a very nice bunch of chaps, but do not really know what they are talking about.

I doubt if the bearing in question is working anywhere near its design limits, so you would probably get away with 8 rollers if you kept quiet about it, and you would not be the first.

As to valve lift, if it worries you, you can set the clearances individually to give you the lift you want.

George, If it is the engine in your photos it looks like the Reeves Popular design, 3/8" bore, 1/2" stroke, though there are others which are very similar. Have fun drilling the steam passages!

It does actually say "tight push fit" in the Tich book, page 179, though it is perhaps not clear that no other fixing is required.

It is fairly common practice on locos of this size to make the door ring as a tight push fit into the smokebox tube. It can then be removed and refitted easily to allow access to the pipework. Since it has to be turned to a reasonably good fit anyway, this is probably the simplest method.

It looks like a Stuart no. 8.

There is nothing "dodgy" about Robin West who runs View Models.

He has been in business for many years and though I have not dealt with him myself, two colleagues have done so and been completely satisfied.

He is probably having difficulties at the moment like many of us.

Steve, I think you should withdraw that comment.

The bypass valve can go either side as convenient. It doesn't even have to be in the tank, sometimes a separate valve is used, typically on the cab floor, with a pipe to the tank.

Have fun with your Tich!

Look at the online bearing and belt suppliers. Many have a calculator facility which will give the length required, given the pulley diameters and centre distances, and they will have dimensions to identify the section that you need.

Interestingly it seems to have a right handed leadscrew. Also packing blocks under the headstock, so it may be somewhat modified from the original.

Okay, in principle with launch links the eccentrics should be set 90 degrees either side of the crank pin, then both advanced equally by an amount equal to lap plus lead. In this case you can ignore the lead component.

I would suggest that your reverse eccentric is set about right, but the forward one isn't.

Going back to the first sentence, the eccentrics should appear symmetrical either side of the crankpin but the angle between them will be less than 180 degrees.

I hope that makes sense.

Obviously we don't know what you have done already, but before adjusting the eccentrics the first thing to do is to centralise the valve on the port face by adjusting the valve spindle, so that the valve opens equally at each end of its stroke.