Member postings for Cabinet Enforcer

People entering stuff they didn't make has always been an issue in this sort of event, a good judge would have picked up on it, there is no need to "ban" such entries.
All you can do is complain to the committee that a commercially available product won, maybe you could offer your expert services as a judge in future?

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 06/08/2023 11:35:41

The Warco spec page lists two seperate motors, 1.5kW vertical and 1.1kW horiz.

**LINK**

Anything that can clear brambles will be capable of harming even quite mature trees, the operator needs to be careful where they point it! The 4mm line on my brushcutter would easily kill my 10 year old apple trees if I was careless with it.

I'm sure it would be possible to constuct some sort of stand-off guarding for the wheeled machines,but it would be rather unwieldy, better to watch where you are going.

It isn't mentioned in the article, but I believe this was the first ever instance of an EU wide product ban arising from the product alert system. Of course now you can buy all manner of lethal power tool attatchments direct from your favourite website, particularly mind boggling is the version of said brushcutter chain attachment that uses chainsaw chain for added "spice".

Brush cutters are the conventional tool for this sort of job, for the specific job you describe I would think the walk behind type is what you would want, useless for a fine finish but loads of grunt and quite manouverable.
No association with the website, just the first google hit to show examples.

**LINK**

Fourth link on my google search, your google-fu is weak Robin-san.

**LINK**

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 13/07/2023 01:34:20

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 13/07/2023 01:34:38

Currently my main use of CAD is generating paper patterns, after Draftsight went paid (which was fine for this purpose) I downloaded solid edge, the 2021 version I think. Recently I got around to trying it out, and while I can see the potential of the actual drawing package, it seems to have a particularly useless print driver. Apparently it is almost impossible to get it to print at exact 1:1 scale, you can ask it to easily enough but the print outs are not at 100% and also this "feature" is not consistent across scale either, with smaller features printing a touch larger.

A Google search provided no useful info, beyond that it is indeed broken and things used to work properly before it went freeola.

Is the 2023 solid edge version better, or does anyone know of a workaround? Fusion 360 works ok for this but the limited documents and general online faffiness is a pain when you just want a quick paper pattern.

There are scattered reports of people replacing (usually) MT4 spindles with an iso/bt type.

The most recent one I have seen was by youtuber Stefan Gotteswinter, he put in an iso30 spindle. Covered in the first 10 mins of this video :

**LINK**

The spindle was obtained from a german machine dealer, **LINK**

I would like to get around to this myself someday, an iso holder would be so much better for quick changing, it seems maybe even iso40 is possible to fit.

Sort the FEP out first or you will just get failed prints or trash the FEP.
If you bust the FEP you will get resin all over the screen, you do not want to do this.

Make sure you have removed all of the peel off protective films.

The FEP is clamped into the tray with lots of bolts, if it is somehow not flat it should be possible to fix it. Most printers come with at least one spare FEP, and there are plenty of youtube videos around on how to fit them.

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 03/08/2022 21:29:51

Glad to hear it Graham.

Have you considered getting a digital caliper with an extra large screen? Such things are available from the usual suppliers.

It seems that in the US, where most u-toobers hail from, 4140 is just the standard goto grade when something stronger is wanted, as you have noted EN19 or in a more modern nomenclature 708M40 is equivalent. Here in the UK I think the grade of choice when you need something a bit spicy is typically EN24, which is another cro-moly steel.

Of course the material needed should be specified at the design stage when the relevant calculations are done, but most youtube metal bashers aren't too hot on the actual engineering.

I would recommend getting: a box of disposible nitrile gloves, 5l of isopropol alcohol, and a silicone mat for working on (pastry rolling mat for example), a small metal funnel for putting resin back in bottles, and remember the safety specs, you don't wan't a splash of resin in your eye.

The silicone work mat can just be left in the sun to cure any spilled resin, remove once it has hardened, much easier and less wasteful than mopping up spillages.

Also, even if you ordered some resin with the printer, order some other resin to try out, I got 2 large bottles of the same colour and type of resin when I got my printer, this was dumb

Assuming you want the "squeeze plastic filament out through a hotend in layers" type of printer, then my advice is don't, they are all rubbish

If you must, then you need to make an assessment of how capable you are of taking a printer to pieces and fiddling with it. Even some quite expensive "FDM" type printers need rather a lot meddling to keep them going satisfactorily, the difference between expensive and cheap printers is often more the quality of the support available than how good the printer actually is.

If you want cheap, then the ender 3 (or any of the inumerable copies of it) is the way to go.

Not technically much better would be a printer from Prusa, but it is part of a cohesive ecosystem with something approaching a support system, and will be be more reliable. Quite a lot more money than an Ender, for many the extra hand-holding is worth every penny. Most cheap printers are basically a less good Prusa with no support.

Then you have more commercial suppliers, like makerbot, more like an out of the box device which can be expected to "just work". A lot more expensive again.

For the technically adept there are self build options which can have very good performance and reliability, but costing similar or a little more than a Prusa. An example would be the Voron 2.4.

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 16/06/2022 20:44:04

You mean Thomas Sanladerer's review? All the issues he raised are to do with the additional features that you do not need to use, just don't connect it to the internet and use USB to move files like any sensible person. He did actually say this in his review...

Otherwise wait 5 minutes, there will be a similar model released from the other manufacturers before long, doubtless with various "improvements" to counter the M3.

Chris, it is hard to tell exactly what you are asking about, is your quill moving a lot when you clamp it, or are you just asking about how to keep track of Z axis movement?

It is true that you need to take care not to wind down the fine feed while the quill clamp is engaged, the mental discipline comes easily once you have spoiled a couple of parts

The fine feed should have markings on the handle, same as the x and y, so in a pinch you can count those. Otherwise many of these mills have a cheap caliper type readout attached to the quill which while not as nice as a proper DRO is very useful, and despite mine having fittings which are not wholly convincing in their ridgidity, seems fairly repeatable. It looks like this one:

Another option is to improve the awful depth stop, as detailed by Stefan Gotteswinter here:
**LINK**

Stefan also later fitted a proper DRO to the quill, which can be seen in this more recent video dicussing other modifications:
**LINK**

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 10/03/2022 15:18:49

When cutting smaller pieces on the bandsaw I usually just use some packing pieces from the offcuts left on the saw.

However my next roundtuit will be spent on one of these, which is the most elegant solution I have seen for a bandsaw vice:

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 09/10/2021 11:34:39

I use the 60 on the motor and the 140 on the spindle, if I need more speed for something specific, I can change pulleys back to the first set I bought.

I would recommend machining a bush to clamp the taperlock bush onto, if that's your chosen route, mine clamps direct to the spindle which works but isn't very practical.

The 280 has threaded holes in the bed which are sized for an 80 frame motor foot, so my motor is stood off on some threaded bar, which also provides some tension adjustment for the nutlink belt. You can see a photo in my album.

I have a 280 and have added a VFD, I used a compact 1.1KW 80 frame 4-pole TEC motor, no manufacturer guidance on max speed/frequency, I run it up to double speed IIRC.

As for bottom end, just program in the motor to the VFD and set the min speed at zero, this lets you use the speed pot to adjust down to a full stop.

I used taper-lock z-section v-belt pulleys and nut link belt. 60mm and 140mm pulleys give a range of about 40 upto about 1300, I used to have 71mm and 106mm on there which gave a 2000 top end but the bottom end was a bit lacking in torque and would only run down to about 75.

The domestic oven is a fine device for gently and controllably heating a part for shrink fitting purposes, and is usually conveniently located near the freezer Just remember to clean any oil off first.

Nice belt sander, is it Jeremy Schmidt's design?

Struggling to reconcile your description of downmarket with the inclusion of Stihl? Which would be my default recommendation, they have a standard 2 year warranty and currently have an "offer" to extend to 3 years with an additional purchase item.

My father has a bent shaft "grass trimmer" type which would happily chew through a small area of brambles, I have one of the commercial size machines which is frankly total overkill for my garden, both get plenty of use, the trimmer also abuse, both stihl and both have been very reliable and give off a reasonble air of being properly engineered. The only shortcoming I would describe about either is that I am not too keen of stihl heads, they seem a bit soft/fragile compared to say an oregon one, but they are pretty much a consumable and a standard M14 fitting.

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 01/07/2021 16:41:52

There is no legal authority within the UK legal system for any regulator to prevent the sale of second hand machinery, no-one has any power to prevent the sale of such items including on a marketplace such as ebay.

There is the power to restrict the sale of new items that don't comply to standards, which is what the linked news story is about.

You can all calm down now.