Member postings for OuBallie

Anyone have any experience or advise on what compatible cartridges to use on the R360 please?

I have a set of genuine ones, but they will run out eventually, especially the black now that the laser has cried enough.

Geoff - Work on the Austin progresses.

Norman,

Just found I haven't responded to your question - sorry.

I use the Epson R360 for photos of family's 5year old, but I seem to using the 'Nozzle Check' mode more than printing.

Cannot decide whether to use the Epson in place of the laser, and incur the price of black cartridges, or go for another laser either b&w or colour, hence my post for advise and feedback.

Trouble is I no longer do as much printing as before, so I will use the Epson for the time being, and see how things go.

Geoff - Thanks to all for suggestions and comments.

Thanks for all the suggestions..

If I go second hand I will need to check that they work with Yosemite and El Capitan.

Epson have definitely shown the way forward at last with their 'tank' models.

Geoff - Will advise what I decide on, but don't hold breaths.

Recommendations please for a replacement laser printer.

It's now behaving like a cranky old you know what, something I'm familiar with, but it's earned its keep.

Anyone have experience of colour models, as I'm thinking of one as the cartridges for my Epson R360 are in the same league as perfume, cost wise.

Geoff - Feeling the same as the printer today.

Tim's third item of need, and no it's staying put

Obtained this years ago.

Geoff - In zombie mode due to bad night.

Thanks guys!

Brain was on strike when trying to think of words to use to describe them when doing an Internet search.

Geoff - Forum to the rescue once again

Screwcutting for the first time!

Why oh why have I been funking doing it for so long!?

Only aluminium, but still a milestone for me.

Geoff - Now for some Acme threads.

Details of where to obtain please.

They are quieter compared with wire wheels on the L-grinder.

Geoff - Keep the neighbours happy I say.

Thanks for the kind comments.

Remembered how to do YouTube links, surprising myself to boot.

Trepanning using the Dividing head:

Geoff - Carport here I come.

Edited By OuBallie on 21/10/2016 10:55:20

Spent time in the Workshop instead of the Carport in September as the heat and humidity made working on the Austin Seven body parts uncomfortable to say the least.

Mounted the lathe and dividing head chucks, that had been gathering dust since 2006, onto base plates then time to work on the Austin Seven cylinder block:

1. Valve grinding

Last time I did any was int the '70 when I was racing at the original Kyalami GP circuit, bringing back lots of memories plus things I had forgotten

2. Machining flat surface

clamped the Austin Seven cylinder block onto the Marlow table and machind the surfaces where the exhaust/inlet and water inlet manifolds bolt to.

Something was most definitely wrong with the way the flycutter behaved so that was soon replaced with collet and end mill.
Afterwards a session of draw filing on the machined surfaces revealed all nice and flat, and doing the same on the cylinder head and block mating surfaces showed they where flat as well.
The inlet ports have a nasty 90° bend on the short side, as they head upwards to the valve heads, so they need blending.
Anything to get the mixture to flow better will help.

Geoff - Back to body parts.

Edited By OuBallie on 21/10/2016 10:58:17

Edited By OuBallie on 21/10/2016 10:58:45

continue/

Fun and games ensued checking the diagrams printed on the side cover of the lathe as to what change wheels where needed and where, then finding that NONE where marked with number of teeth, so had to count and stamp each one.
Chucked a piece of aluminium to test, and then problems as I just could not get 12tpi, the closest being 11.5tpi!
The usual wtf but after an hour of checking the positions of the feed and gearbox levers and finding them in their correct slots, plus change gears, went to have a bite to eat and coffee to calm down
Back to the lathe and I just could not believe what I saw!
As plain as possible the diagram on the gearbox showed two 40 tooth gears where needed and for some inexplicable reason I had fitted one 32tooth.
What relief when that was rectified and the thread gge confirmed 12tpi!
Measured the Vertex spindle nose and cut the thread in the aluminium rod to size to use as a gge for the backplates, and very pleased and somewhat surprised at how easy it was.
I remember thinking to myself "Is it this easygoing!"
Aluminium, so MS no doubt not the same.
First go at screwthreading

Replaced the 3-jaw with the large 8" 4-jaw and used thick aluminium plate for the two backplates, machining the centre holes then cutting the internal threads using the Jog facility, and leaving the Half-nuts engaged, just reversing the lathe using the 'Jog' facility again that the VFD control has.
Took a little fine fiddling with Top-slide feed to get the threaded plug gge to screw into the plates all the way, but again pretty pleased, after being not a little apprehensive in the past about screwcutting in the lathe.
Blind holes a totally different matter.

Next problem was how to trepan the centres out.
Easy said I, mount the aluminium on the dividing head, onto the Marlow and use a small dia end mill.
After three passes I cried enough and time to use the lathe to trepanne the centres out.

Found the toolbit I used to trepan the thick plastic from 'Oompa Lumpa' to make holders for Angle Eye lamps I made to fit round the spindles of the the Mitco and Marlow, and soon had both done.
https://youtu.be/eXFRk-fUI_8

Chuck mounting holes drilled and tapped.

Chucks mounted on the Vertex.

The Marlow spindle speed has subsequently been increased

Geoff - Hopefully back working on the Austin tomorrow.

It's been a while since I last posted, BUT I've achieved a landmark in using the lathe.

Chuck back plates
I've had chucks gathering dust waiting for me to machine backplates for the lathe and dividing head, so decided it was high time to start machining the 4 ready screwed backplates I got from Warco and making two for the Bertex Dividing Head.
Machining the OD of the last Warco one, using power feed, I selected Saddle feed in error rather than Cross-slide and a big dig-in was the result, BUT the brass tube I used to replace the spring pin didn't shear as I had hoped it would. (Need to think again, and maybe time to fit that clutch to the Gearbox input shaft now.)

Ideas on a replacement waisted spring pin design please. To

I panicked a little, as expected following on from my first episode, and instead of pulling the clutch lever to disengage motor, I made a grab for the Feed Shaft lever to disengage the Feed Rod.
After recovering from the 'shock' I found that it was now impossible to engage the Feed Rod no matter what I tried or how much effort I exerted, so I finished off in manual mode and walked away, working on the Austin Seven to take my mind off what further damage I'd done inside the Apron.

With the Carport at 27°C & 80% humidity during September, it just wasn't conducive to working on the Austin Seven, so Workshop time.

I wasn't in the mood to remove the Apron once again, to look inside, so settled on finish machining the backplates in 'manual' mode.
Imagine my delight and surprise to find that the Feed Rod Lever was completely free and back to normal with no hint of it having locked up.
I can only surmise that when I made that lunge to disengage the Feed Rod lever I must have inadvertently made contact with the Half-nut lever, thus partly engaging the interlock.
Those two levers are next to each other, albeit the Half-nut one on is on the side of the Apron.
Soon had the backplates for the lathe chucks mounted and registers done, then time for the Vertex dividing head ones and they had to have a 12tpi thread to fit spindle.
No way was I forking out for Myford chucks/backplates, so procured a 4" 3-jaw Pratt plus a 6" 4-jaw Bernerd.

This meant doing some screwcutting in the lathe for the first time believe it or not, as I've been able to get away with using taps and dies till now, and quite frankly funking the very thought to boot.

Geoff - Continued, with photos, due to word limit.

Been catching up on posts.

Made other half jump when I burst out laughing on reading this.

Geoff - Been busy in the Workshop as Carport a 'No go area' with 80% humidity

The Hemingway kit does as advertised.

The side plates could no doubt be made deeper if needed.

Geoff - Tidying Carport

Thanks for the responses.

Cam followers appear fine, BUT will check for uneven contact with trial assembly.

Thanks for the offer Chris, and I will take you up on it if my grinding proves less than satisfactory, after I put the camshaft, block and valve gear back together and rotate the cam to check followers/lobe contact.

Grinding done, using the high speed drilling machine as per photo, and in a typical Heath Robinson fashion by sliding the vice around the table.

A quick lick on X-fine diamond card and result as seen.

Easier than I expected.

Geoff - SU carb, that will replace the original, stripped for cleaning and refurbishing.

Edited By OuBallie on 11/07/2016 14:58:40

Nowt to do with me🤔

Geoff - Heading made me sit up😮

BobH,

What a brilliant idea on using the chain! Thanks.

Am wearing a proper mask, and have the Axial fan plus pedestal one sucking the soda dust out of the Carport.

It would be impossible to see without those fans going.

This forum is a gold mine for advise and help.

Geoff - Thanks everyone.

Photo says it all.

I do have a small high speed drilling machine, Dermel equivalent and angle grinders.

Suggestions please, as all eight need doing.

The Warden kit is mocking me, so time to pull finger.

Geoff - Overhaul the SU carb next.

Where/how to organise parts that will need blasting then spraying?

Came up with the absolutely 'brilliant' idea of hanging them on a rail suspended from the Carport roof beams.

Job done, and now ready to use the MSB unit for the first time, and man is it dusty.

Didn't seal up one section of the plastic sheeting properly that was isolating one half of the Carport, so some dust got through.
I will fix this before doing any more blasting or spray painting.

This method does, however, remove paint from areas nothing else can get into.

Attacked a lilac tree this week, using chainsaw, then had to do some wood and felt replacement on Shed roof.

Geoff - Brain says "Can do" but body replies "No bl@@dy way"!

Hello John,

Played around with bobbin tension as well as the top tension then wondered why the top thread kept snapping.

Checked everything then noticed what I thought was fluf on the top tension check spring only to discover that somehow I had looped the thread round it.

Fixed that and after more adjustment I'm happy for now, but will only find out once I experiment with the material I will be using on the car.

New needle plate fitted as the machine didn't have one.

When I got the machine I cleaned the mechanism as best I could, removed the end cover and found all the pieces of lubricating felt bone dry so soaked them in Singer oil.

Every moving part was lubricated and machine turned by hand then left overnight before powering up.

I think there is too much oil in felt strips, as it is running down the needle bar, but not as much as first.

The sump was empty, so duly filled, and I check the level before using the machine.

No mention of an oil pump in the manual.

Thanks for the advise on 'back stitching', something I didn't know about, but how do you stop the stitch coming loose if not used?

Geoff - Getting there albeit slowly.