Member postings for clogs

I need to move my machines around some times esp spring time for a total w/shop clean out.....

the heavy / akward machines (4) and metal cabinets are on a chassis type frame that u can use a pallet truck under.......

U could just make em a bit taller to suit ur needs.....

have some fun......

Alistair,

have u seen the price of Snap-On lately......make ur eye's water.......hahaha....

Lazer tools make all kinds of AF tools........mine are used proff.....since my Snap-on stuff got stolen......

Lazer is part of K`amasa tool's Japan.......excellent products.....they have a base near Brum......

we sell anything over 10euro's or for job lots and the rest gets given away for free....

I was given about 25kgs of sloted wood screws, (who ever uses them now ?) kept the brass and gave the rest away..........

there's an unwriten rule here, anything that can be usefull is left by the central community bins for anyone to take.......other than that we use facebook, they have a free-to-take site.......sure beats a trip to the dump, which for us is 15miles away.......most of the trackways etc on my farm are made from unwanted roof tiles etc.....not sure now but it was €65 per ton to dump stuff......

I've never bothered,

I use the mill to slot the shaft and again the mill to slot in the pulley etc.......as for the pulley, as long as the slot is deep enough, at least 1.1/2 times normal keyway depth, I leave the slot with a rounded top......custom make the key from flat stock.......can't justify buying special tools for the odd job and besides the keyway is usually covered with a nut and washer anyway.....

it's not a perfect world.......I'm sure this'll create trouble on the forum but life is to short........

this has been my go to method for years and it has been sucsessfull on high horse power items used on tractors etc.....clogs

always had trouble with parting off.......gen I go up to the next speed for the chuck......

some times good then not so....snapped a few TCT tool holders........

now gonna try a rear tool post with a Co HSS tool....will let u know......

most of the time on the 50mm dia bar I remove the bar and use the bandsaw.....which is a pain in the bottom....

it just makes me nervy......

I use a Myford S7 and a Colch/Student sq top larhes......!!!!!!!!!!!!!

frank, been here for 15 years..17150.......never bought any materials here, to many bad experiences....

same for tooling....used tooling can be bought but it's almost the same price as new in the UK.........

just found a steel yard north of Bordox that will sell without Siret Number.....

Main interests, antique cars and M/cycles.......anything old and mechanical.......

leaving soon for warmer climes..........

Andrew,

u can often u can do well from the BAY....so don't be to put off......u have as much chance buying decent material in a scrap yard as from the BAY....!!!!!!!!!!!!

generally it just depends on what ur doing and how much steel / material u'll need...

most steel's and ally can be bought in 1m lengths or less from most suppliers...even sometimes stock holders.....personal visits work best......

depends how lucky u are to be close to a stockist.....paying cash help...esp after a while when they get to know u......

most engineering / fabricating shops will sell or give away short lengths of known quality......just knock on a few doors.....

I use a guy reg and often drop in for a brew and unload a case of beer, keeps em sweet.......hahaha.......

there are a few on-line suppliers but u need to compare prices, as 1 in prticular sell's at very inflated prices but OK for the odd special requirement........

I tend to buy most steels in 6m lengths up to 35-40mm dia and have about £1,000 invested in st/st, brass and bronze in various sizes but I do get thru it quite quckly and it's more profitable to have usable material in stock than money in the bank...esp when u live in the BOONIES......(ps. supposd to be retired, hahaha).........

you could of course split the material with a freind to get better prices....(usually buying more helps with the price)......

hope this helps a little....clogs......

just had a quick look......

without getting down and dirty (Sunday roast in 10mins) .......hahaha

I can only see 1 knee operating rod for the lock.....left side from the front....up the hole......

mines an early 70's J head .....

clogs, that's cos I wear em..........hahaha........

sounds just like the gibs are set to tight or there's a ton of swarf in there even the oily gunge (old lube) dosen't help any......

it's gotta to be real tight to hold up the weight of the table......

the only prob with my J head is how much u need to crank the hndle to get long travel......(athritus).....

soon to be fixed by a geared elec motor..........

if u want photo's or a copy of the manual just pm message me.....no probs...anytime.....

clogs

clogs

the thread is 3.5mm...

u can buy a tap that has a screw driver handle prob from B+Q but def from most elec factors, CIty Elec etc etc.....

new screws various finishes are available in DIY packs of 4 for just a few pence.......

I always kept every length available in my tool box for odd jobs that turn out to be a pain.......

often the receptical is set to deep causing this problem.....

and as for suplied screws, ur lucky u got any......hahaha......

just to add,

I use the sticky chain saw chain oil on exposed back gears, 5-40w Synthetic D engine oil on everything else except enclosed gearbox's which get Dexron 3 or 4 Auto (red) gearbox oil..........

also when my last bit of Q8 suds oil gets used up will prob go for Hydraulic oil for coolant.........

now what da ya think of that.........?????????..........hahaha........

ps. all the oiling points on my S7 and Col / student are now converted to gravity feed......

the stupid original Myford oil can is in my black museum never to b used again........

and lastly, al my machines are now covered with old blankets and Duvet's with a low wattage, curly whirley bulb in a work lamp to keep condensation away.......they are on 24/7 till the spring.....roll on spring / summer......

clogs

is it just me ????????

seemingly most of the worlds ill's are coused by men in suit's.......

I ran a small workshop with 5 employee's, when a rep came around trying to flog stuff...I told em that if they could convince me in 3 mins that I needed their product I would give them my time.......can only remember 1 that made it thru the door..........hahaha.....

u can see why the Mazda MX5 has taken over.....

when I lived in the States, had a bumper sticker that said.............

"the parts falling of this MG are quality, built in Britain".........

thankfully all(most) all that rubbish is long gone......

thanks R. Atkinson,,,,

actually know that one but the reverse switch is wired thru the DOL.......giving the odd wire...

will try tom. to get some photos on the forum.....

ta Clogs

Having trouble with placing photo's on the forum.....the search box is no help....

have replaced the 3ph starter push button on/off switch on my Colchester lathe....

the photo's would explain better but the main wires are no problem...all wires coded by me before disassembly and the switch box's )old and new) use the same wiring term numbers.....my problem is with the reverse switch......just 1 wire......

not fired it up yet as don't want to burn anything out.......

So help with the photo placing would be great help anyway but an offer of private email help would be just the ticket, if there would be someone so kind to help......

I live in the boonies and there is no chance of finding a 440volt electrician even if I wanted........

I'm not completely helpless but just worried........as I say the photo's will explain everything.....it's just I'll have a job to do quite soon..........

thanks for looking.....Cl;ogs

for the bigger holes I use mag drill cutters in the lathe but only in steel........mine go upto 65mm.........

clogs

probably a new kinda cheese.......

only buy HSS, even the Chinese versions are better than the carbon sort...

glad it's not just me then.........

got fed up with tipped tool version above (no1) so made a sturdy over the top parting tool holder that's mounted central to the saddle /cross slide........all very well for making washers but it's quite incoveinient when needing other cutters for different jobs on the same turnig....getting it on/off.......

I went back to the HSS type of blade holder but this time using a HSS cobalt blade.......I also with a Dremel grinder created a groove on the top cutting surface, so now have a semi hard blade that doesn't blunt qite so redilly with the conveinence of using the 4 side quick change tool holder.....

have just bought a h/d rear mounted tool holder and just waiting for the HSS/co blade.......so lets see how it works....

on the big stuff 50mm plus I just gave up with parting off and just use the band saw, inconveinient but makes my nerves a lot happier.......

also when parting off I up the chuck speed to the next highest setting, seem s to work for me.....and have the luxury of flood coolant......

more info.....

what machine and how old is it ?........

could be anything from wrecked bearings to miss alignment....did it suddenly happen ?

but miss alignmet does happen suddenly, it can happen after a rebuild or major repair......

a photo or 2 may help.....my 12" bandsaw is prob now 16-18 years old and has never thrown a blade.....

snaped a few but thats normal.....

hope this helps a bit......