Member postings for HomeUse

Think my Super is grey

Just viewed latest M E W and was happy that the main feature on front page is “Drive to saddle of a Super 7”

Is there not a differance between the 7 and the Super 7 ?

Seems to hav corrected itself on page 2

No faster for me - mind you I never had any problems

Zink Chromate primer is available on EBay and in many D I Y shops - would recommend for use on alloy

Never had any problem but I always use a 1/16” drill (I have a lot of them) and they always seem to drill oversize so seem to give the correct engagement

A quote from an old engineer “ If it don’t knock a bit and don,t rattle then it aint going proper” - He worked on Steam and first age Gas Oil

This link is good for anyone contemplating home casting

http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/index.html

Good crucibles can be made from empty “non refillable CO2 (disposable) cylinders cut in half - use bottom end - Take care when releasing any pressure left in cylinder

The only problem I have had with the software in your link is that it won’t work on “Apple”

Had some similar but 1inchx1/4inch rod - marked PURE-D - used by electrical engineers to “solder” underground cable joints. A case was clipped over the spliced wire joint and molten aluminium was poured in.

Think the stamp means that it is “pure”

Hope this helps

Peter Hall’s link - It should have a live steam engine (compound of course) with “Mill” type boiler

And of course a ready supply of “vino”

This may be useful http://www.modeleng.org/ukclubs.htm

This may be useful http://www.modeleng.org/ukclubs.htm

Normally they are set up for the steam to enter into the inner pipe and exit as superheated from the outer - one design I seen had spacer blocks soldered to the inner to give spacing and support inside the outer - the outer had end caps that had small longitudinal fins that gave positioning in the boiler tube (Design seems to originate in Spain)

Hi - Just a thought - have you tried a mic. on the tube to make sure it is in fact 3/16 and not 5mm - I had similar problem with on line supply of copper rod (3/16 listed and ordered but 5mm sent)

A tip for threading/drilling copper - use full cream milk or single cream for lubrication - commonly used in past times. Make sure all residue is washed away as the acid in milk (lactic) will damage metals (and cement based items)

Edited By HomeUse on 06/05/2014 08:04:43

Try dilute Hydrochldoric acid (Brick cleaner) to clean steel sheet - wash off with clean water and coat joint area with Borax paste - clamp in position and heat to just under cherry red and apply Silver Solder to edges of joints - solder will flow towards flame/heat position (Capillary action) - let cool normally - DO NOT COOL IN WATER - causes brittal joint

Been looking thro. scrap box - found bit of thin wall coper tube with heavier copper end that could have been the cap from the one i was building - Internal dia is 1 1/2 inch and about 2 inch long with a flange on the open end.

Might be something from another project - can’t remember - Might need some brain lubrication to remember

Can remember it as started to build one - thought it was 1981/2 - about the same time as the 2 1/2 inch gauge Flying Scotsman was serialised (I did build the Loco but not finish the Sterling engine )

Hi - This site is quite interesting for anyone interested in melting metals

Unfortunately there is not much about lost wax casting

http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/index.html