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Just tap on the door and they'll let you out.

Nah, just thread restoration.

Live and let Die.

Edited By Lofty76 on 09/04/2015 18:55:43

Yep, cutting dry with a tipped facemill.

Apparently I'm often heard to mutter something along the lines from Apocalypes Now ' the smell of the first cut etc.

Its probably some coating thats been applied at the suppliers.

Hi Neil,

We had a small incident at work a while ago when two new female apprentices were just starting the milling course.

We use a piece of EN1 Bar for the job and within seconds of taking the first roughing cuts both were near to throwing up and complaining about the smell.

I double checked and both were vegetarian (actually one was Vegan).

I suppose thats another Risk assessment Hazard I have to allow for now

Would something like this be too small? **LINK**

Hello Ian,

The 3 bar / litre exemption no longer applies to small boilers **LINK** section 1.6, and then refer to section 14 for small boiler testing.

Regards

Lofty

Hi Richard and welcome,

I built this some years back and opted for 1/4 x 40 fittings, for one reason the glass on the 7/32 is very small and tends to give a slightly higher level reading than the bigger glasses.

Reeves do a 1/4 x 40 **LINK** may need a second mortgage tho'.

I'm sorry, I can't remember what I did about the regulator, I think I just used the standard one, If I still have the drawings I'll let you know.

All the best

Lofty

Wouldn't that do a wonderful job of condensing the steam?

I've heard this method before as well, and checking my elbows against my GH1330 that is just about the correct height for me, and I'm 6'4".

At work, we have sixty Harrison L300's all on original manufacturers stands and apprentices that have ranged from sub five feet tall to heading towards seven feet.

The only problems we ever have is that the littluns can't reach the top of the Bridgeports.

Not good, thats what almost killed Schumacher.

You are not alone Ian, I keep my ME and BA mostly for steam fittings so they are never used on anything ferrous. I do the same with milling cutters, new ones are used on brasses, bronze and ally and then set aside for steels before going for resharpening when viable.

I also have a set of number drills that again are only used with the ME and BA taps.

Pretty sure I mentioned the use of a cutting compound.

Hello Tom,

What you would appear to have is a 'die nut' which is mainly used for cleaning a thread rather than cutting a new one.

The correct method is to use a split die. If you look at the die itself it has the size stamped on one face, this face is to be showing when the die is in the holder and identifies the 'cutting side' of the thread.

As Jason describes, slacken the two outer screws and fully tighten the center screw to open the die ( a lot of cheap die holders do not have a sufficient point ground on the center screw to open the die so be aware), and then lightly tighten the two outer screws.

Apply some cutting compound , Rocol or something similar to the rod to be cut and place the die on the thread with the 'cutting side' in contact with the rod.

While trying to keep everything square, rotate the die holder clockwise (RH Thread) for about half a turn and you should feel the die bite into the rod.

Back off a quarter of a turn and then advance again half a turn.

Repeat foward half, back a quarter until the full thread is formed.

Now, the thread may be too tight for a nut to fit on, so you need to slacken the centre screw slightly and re tighten the two outers,and then run the thread cutting process again. repeat this until your nut etc fits properly on the rod.

Hope this is of help

Lofty

Admittedly some forty odd years ago, the MoD apprenticeships of the time had instructors that insisted that the machines were kept clean not only at the end of each class, but during the machining operations as well.

Its a process that I still keep to today, and even insist on our current apprentices following a similar procedure.

We wouldn't be able to adopt the cling film method as all of our machines have slurry trays / drains in the base so a little vigilance on maintaining a clean working environment always pays dividends not only in how you personally feel in working in a sh*t tip but also on the longevity of the machine.

If I'm machining materials that chip I often use an industrial vacuum to remove the chips before they become a nuisance which means very little cleaning up at the end of a session.

Hardly surprising Bogs, ya don't see too many Telescopic Bore Gauges with a vernier scale on

Mark, which one do you have? mine is one of these **LINK** which sticks out quite a way from the machine.

I paid $150 for a tool sale item which turned out to be unused in its original box with all the paperwork, I think they retail for around $1300.

I was at the time more annoyed with having to pay the Mount Pleasant charges for import duties and VAT

I have three tools for edge finding, the 'wobbler' is a nice easy one to use PROVIDED you accurately measure the stub to calculate the offset.

The laser doesn't have the offset problem but it can take a while to get it accuarely zeroed, and then of course it doesn't like bright workshop lights, But it IS very accurate if the polarising lens is used to fine down the beam.

My favorite for really accurate edge and spot finding is my quill mounted optical microscope from Titan Tools in the States which according to the certificate, is accurate to 0.0001"

Only problem with the Titan is that a small centre pop takes up over half the microscope viewfinder.

And for the lubricant **LINK**

Try these people, I have no connection apart from being a well happy customer

**LINK**

We have used them on our Bridgeports

Lofty

I think you have to modify your fuel system components quite extensively to be able to use ethanol based fuels.