Member postings for Howi

Chill pill folks.lets not be too sensitive.

This type of scam comes in many variants, PayPal, eBay, apple, amazon etc. If you hover your mouse pointer over the hyperlink, the true address is shown in a pop up, but not everyone knows this. 

People are far too trusting. I have had two friends taken in by the Microsoft scam recently, despite this type of scam being many years old, one very nearly lost a lot of money, the other had a lot of valuable documents deleted that were unrecoverable.

The scumbags out there don't care what harm they do.

It is sad when one has to say this - but - don't trust anyone, don't believe anything in an unsolicited email or phone call, never give your bank details, passwords, usernames etc you have NOT won anything and you never have to pay upfront to reclaim a prize. 

Your internet IP address is assigned to your router not your computer, with dynamic addressing you would need to reboot your router to get your ISP to reassign your IP address, if static then obviously it would make no difference.

Your computer and other devices are on the internal home network and ip addresses are usually issued by your router using dhcp. Usually from the range 192.168.?.?

There are also a number of errors that could lead to the beginner to have to remake some parts. Not having got the last part of the article yet, I have made up the crank and some other parts using what material/sizes I had.

As the instructions for crank assembly were not available yet (to me!) I made the discs from 13/4 bar, turned to diameter and centre hole drilled and reamed, then transfered to the mill/drill to drill the offset holes( I have cheap dro's on the mill)

A pet hate of mine is when the auther says he used various bits of scrap lying about in the workshop rather than having to go out and purchase same. I nearly died of heart failure when I priced up 6mm brass sheet!!!

I did not particularly like the method of cylinder construction so made mine out of 25mm hex bar, only parts left to make now are the end caps for the cylinders, otherwise the engine has been run in as is by driving the main shaft.

Next step is strip down, clean, reassemble and try putting some air through and see what happens. Interesting but enjoyable build at my level of competence(quite low I must admit), and managed to spot the mistakes before parts were ruined. I did manage to get hold of the original ( middleton v4) construction notes which helped fill in some of the gaps while waiting for the magazine to catch up.

Some aluminium can be stickier than other grades, as Nigel B suggests, WD40 or parafin, you can also tell things not happy by watching the swarf and listening, back the tool out, clear the tip and get back in.

Edited By Howi on 06/01/2017 16:52:54

Some aluminium can be stickier than other grades, as Nigel B suggests, WD40 or parafin, you can also tell things not happy by watching the award and listening, back the tool out, clear the tip and get back in.

I can second Amadeal and Arc, good machines, good service from personal experience.

Can't beleive I have just read through all these posts!

Some people have too much time on there hands (yes! Including me!)

Nema 23 is what you should search on, different numbers refer to more or less powerful motors ( and physically larger or smaller of course). A Nema 23 should be more than enough for a small sized table with a 90 to 1 ratio. Mine is a 75 to 1 and i can't stop the RT turning by hand. There are plenty of other articles regarding converting RT's on the web. Mine uses a pic chip rather than an arduino, has a larger LCD display and a small numeric keypad for menu and control functions and was relatively cheap to build. Mine uses a redundant laptop power supply at about 19v and 3 amps. All the other electronic gubbins resides in a die cast box from Maplin, ebay for the rest of the modules needed apart from the PIC board.

Loose yellow wire meant to go? Stick it anywhere, the previous 'sparky' obviously did with the rest of the wiring.

Nice sofa Nick_G........

Sorry Geoff, unfortunately that is not true, unplated bits will still erode, just not as much.

Yes! Den24171 is correct. Draw a line through the centre of the workpiece and line that up st 90 degrees to the cutter. When you rotate anticlockwise you get conventional milling, when you rotate clockwise past the centrer point you get climb milling.

Teflon baking sheets as has been suggested, silicone sealer etc. For cutting stud holes I would suggest getting hold of a radio telescopic aerial, cut the end off and hey ho you have a series of hole cutters, just sharpen the inside of the base of each tube and a simple twisting action cuts a perfect hole with no tearing as you would with a drill.

The tile cutter would be a good option or a dremel with a diamond disc, would be my choice. I have smoothed the ends of cut test tubes this way.

You may be able to test the board by replacing the connections to the motor with a 60 watt old type bulb.

Try googling for more info

Looks identical to my Amadeal AM210, you need to establish if it is the motor or the electronic board, if things go bang it is usually the electronics/fuses rather than the motor. When using slow speed a lot, you should wind it up to max for a few minutes every so often to get some cooling air through the motor.

I also use a 2 my arbor with a 25mm parallel, 25mm part reduced to fit hole in centre of 4 jaw chuck. Put arbor in RT centre, put chuck on centering on the parallel poart of the arbor, mark for chuck holding bolts. When fitting chuck use the arbor again, locate chuck and tighten bolts.to centre the RT I have a very small hole <1mm in the end of the arbor.using a wobbler point in the mill, centre the RT then lock down to mill table.once the RT is centered it is simple to centre a part in the chuck jaws by adjusting the jaws as you would on back lathe.

Lots of ways to do the same thing, whatever works for you. 4 jaw preferable to 3 jaw even though more of a FAFF to get part central.

Edited By Howi on 11/08/2016 09:02:06

Never had mine slip, tightens up rock solid. Any scratch damage on the parallel portion of the spindle unlikely to cause any issues, it is the M3 ( on my lathe) taper that is important and this has not been touched.

Very quick to engage and disengage.

You may use any method/design you like, but me, I like to follow the KISS principle.

 

Edited By Howi on 10/08/2016 12:56:59

Yes! That's the idea, I split mine about half way down the shaft. There are a number of diagrams out there but I just made mine up as I went along. Had it done in an afternoon, one of the most useful tools I have made, can't understand why I did not make one sooner