Mike Gibbs | 13/04/2014 14:46:41 |
![]() 14 forum posts | Novice builder here! I'm just completing a 5" steam loco. I need to attach works and name plates (all in brass) to the painted loco (automotive 2 pack). The naneplate could be screwed to the side tanks, but the works plates will have to go on with adhesive? I would need to seal round the screws in the tank sides. I would appreciate any suggestions or "words if wusdom". Thanks, Mike |
Nick Moody | 14/04/2014 14:58:37 |
7 forum posts | Hi Mike I used Blu-Tak to fit the nameplates, number plates and works plates to my 5" Polly V. That was 5 years ago and they only come off when I want them to! Even the works plates attached to the smoke box hold position despite the heat and oil. WD40 does make the Blu-Tak go a bit gooey but the goo is easy to remove and replace and it is a lot easier to polish both the plates and the paintwork with them separated. One packet of the 'Blu' stuff should fix a couple of hundred locos worth of plates so it is quite economical too! Best regards NickM |
julian atkins | 14/04/2014 20:54:22 |
![]() 1285 forum posts 353 photos | with all due respect to Nick, i think that fastening nameplates and worksplates with blu tack is one of the silliest things ive come across on here! ive made my own nameplates and numberplates for 4 locos, and the current build has superb diane carney numberplates and worksplates. scale fixings in 5"g are about 12BA. i wouldnt want to risk my numberplates and nameplates etc falling off with blu tack! side tanks if full of water need the holes for the fixings sealed with silicone sealant or one of the car sealant products. ideally the holes should be tapped and the bolts (brass or bronze) inserted from inside and screwed up hard, so that when the nuts are added on the outside the bolts wont rotate. loctite would also be fine. cheers, julian
Edited By julian atkins on 14/04/2014 20:54:46 |
Nick Moody | 15/04/2014 09:27:17 |
7 forum posts | With similar respect to Julian, I don't see why the use of blu-tack is silly. I explained my reasoning in my original post and as I said, none of the six plates (which I also made myself) on my loco have fallen off in five years of regular use. As an aside, our ceramic house number tile has been fixed to the outside wall using blu-tack facing the prevailing wind and weather for 17 years and it hasn't fallen off yet. As Mike says, he is a novice builder like myself, so I offered a practical, simple and effective solution to his problem. He doesn't have to take my advice, that is entirely up to him but it works for me. Regards NickM |
Michael Gilligan | 15/04/2014 10:41:30 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | I have no great interest in model locomotives, so I shall abstain from the debate; but, like Nick, I have been amazed by the mechanical properties of Blu-Tack. MichaelG. |
Jeff Dayman | 15/04/2014 12:57:41 |
2356 forum posts 47 photos | Julian Atkins- your attitude could really use work, in my opinion. JD |
John Stevenson | 15/04/2014 13:10:47 |
![]() 5068 forum posts 3 photos | I'd be more concerned about any light fingered buggers collecting trophy's.
Lets face it some of the plates are not cheap and even if you have made them yourself then there is a lot of work go into one. |
stan pearson 1 | 15/04/2014 22:25:28 |
![]() 135 forum posts 2 photos | I don't often agree with Julian but on all my locos using Diane Carney plates I have used 12BA bolts as recommended by her, they cost too much to rely on Blue Tack but I have seen them put on with araldite and others. I would seal the ones in the tank with Loctite, the ones on my 5" locos are soldered over inside using soft solder paint. Best of luck Stan |
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