Alan Worland | 02/10/2013 19:45:12 |
247 forum posts 21 photos | I am about to set up my Stuart No4 engine on a base driving a small generator and have purchased a length of 0.5" width belting. How much of 'lap' should this have when using adhesive, and what adhesive should be used? It will be running around a fairly small generator pulley and I am thinking about joint flexibility? Alan |
websnail | 02/10/2013 21:16:38 |
62 forum posts | The big boys, back in their day, used a wire hinge. Could you not make something like it. Only smaller. This book is a good read. **LINK**
|
Ian S C | 03/10/2013 13:05:43 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | Hi Alan, I was going to put you on to another thread about 2 years ago, then I saw who's thread it was, by some coincidence the author had the same name. I rebuilt a Stuart S9, and tried a leather belt about 3/4" wide. I'll have to do something about some sort of dressing on the belt, its too slippery. Try to keep your pully's as large as possible, and your belt as long as you can. The S9 has gone back to its owner, and is on display in the front window of the little Museum just down the street from me. Ian S C |
Bazyle | 03/10/2013 13:17:51 |
![]() 6956 forum posts 229 photos | At the St Albans show last weekend traction-engne-Tim was running a 5 in saw blade off a 2in scale Burrell for hours until he let the belt foul a guide. He used ordinary staples. Otherwise I'd suggest rubber puncture repair glue. |
Rik Shaw | 03/10/2013 14:43:00 |
![]() 1494 forum posts 403 photos | Make a scarph joint by tapering each end before super gluing together. Contact adhesive MIGHT be even better. Rik |
IanT | 03/10/2013 16:08:15 |
2147 forum posts 222 photos | My copy of "Belt Drives in the Small Workshop" (Duplex 1950) advises several means of doing this Alan. The first is to use an "alligator" fastener (a bit like a hinge where the two halves are joined by the central pin and the two parts have teeth that grip the belt ends. Assuming these are not freely available, it also suggests wire stitching using a form of 'X' pattern (but warns there will be an audible click). Finally there is a scarf joint described, where the overlap is recommended to be four times the width of the belt. The joint is made by the use of "celluloid" cement ( "as supplied by the belt manufacturer" ) and it is clamped between two lengths of wood using a G-clamp whilst setting. I've got a flat 2" leather belt on my Lorch Schmidt AB which is scarfed & stitched and it's held up very well so far. However I have just purchased two new (round) leather belts for my Cowells drill and will probably not use the simple wire clip supplied. Again the advice for a scarf joint length (on a round belt) is four times the diameter. I have been wondering what glue I should use and thought of the 'rubber' glue used to glue replacement rubber soles onto shoes but would welcome any advice from anyone else who has had a good result from other glues. I will probably also stitch the joint too for added strength (waxed cotton is suggested - plus pre-drilling the required holes! ). I certainly don't want any annoying clicking when the drill is running and I think this way should last longer. By the way - before anyone suggests it - I've tried the plastic stuff and it really wasn't as good as the leather belt the drill came with. Regards,
IanT
PS I've also read up Tubal Cain in this area. As a result I've purchased some Neatsfoot Oil to soften the leather belting before use as Tubal suggests (again off eBay) Edited By IanT on 03/10/2013 16:08:49 Edited By IanT on 03/10/2013 16:19:49 |
thomas oliver 2 | 03/10/2013 18:28:36 |
110 forum posts | I have a Kennedy Hacksaw and I made up a belt from a discarded motorcar camshaft belt, I ground the scarf joint at at least a 30Deg angle and joined it wit superglue. The joint was clamped in a vice and left for 24 hours. Considering the belt is driven by a thin sleeve on a 5/8th in motor shaft it has stood up for two years. I also cut sections off a poly v belt and joinn them similarly for my Pultra lathe. This has the big advantage that I do not have to dissemble the main spindle to fit the belt,but glue it up in situ. |
dave greenham | 03/10/2013 20:04:35 |
100 forum posts | Hi Alan. you don't say whether it's rubber or leather belting, years ago when I was a hosiery mechanic we use round leather belt on the sewing m/c's these were joined with what I can only describe as a 1 mm dia staple. The open joint of it facing the pulley. Loctite also do a super rubber glue, I've used that for sticking rubber soles back when they part company on shoestring at the toe, but what it would work like for a belt I can't say. But may be worth a try. Dave |
websnail | 03/10/2013 20:19:30 |
62 forum posts | Don't forget, both rope and belt drives work by friction (not tension), so the larger the contact arc with the driving pulleys the better. Some times an idler pulley has to be used to increase this contact area. Got any pictures of the set up? |
Alan Worland | 03/10/2013 20:38:33 |
247 forum posts 21 photos | Thanks for all your replies. I should have said the belting is rubber and quite thin but contains a woven structure which has made it 'unstretchable' it also has a texture on one side making it very grippy. My main concern was the ability of any adhesive to flex and remain effective, particularly as it goes round the generator pulley, which is only about .5" diameter. I have been considering a tensioner on the outer side of the belt but this would then cause the belt joint to be flexed one way - then the other! Alan |
John McNamara | 03/10/2013 22:05:31 |
![]() 1377 forum posts 133 photos | Hi Alan Have you considered welding a belt? I have had them made professionally in the past, even better the video below is do it yourself. Regards
|
Edward Messenger | 10/11/2013 16:57:55 |
1 forum posts | Hello Alan, I have been driving an ancient Drummond M with a 1" wide by about 1/16" thick rubber / fabric belt wth a 3" scarph glued with Evostick contact adhesive for about 15 years. Put a thin film on each end, let it dry for an hour or so and clamp between two pieces of wood for 24hrs. The thin ends of the joint started to lift a couple of years ago so I just stapled them down with an office type stapler. |
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.