Blued Steel Sheet

Does anyone know where I can buy blued steel sheet, in very thin size.

I am looking for some to make the cylinder cladding on my 1/16 scale Pollit & Wigzell mill engine.

It will be more akin to blued shim steel actually.

Thanks

Phil

Phil If there is a gunsmith or a shop that sells airguns try them for barrel blueing and then blue some shim steel

Phil,

Sorry, don't know about the availability of ready-blued sheet

[except of course for the "banding" that they use for packaging]

... but it's very simple to blue it yourself.

MichaelG.

Hello Phil - I made a scratch built stationary steam engine some years back and I wanted to do something simmilar for the cylinder cladding. I cut out the correct shape in thin shim and made the necessary bends. When I'd got it to the right shape and size I smeared oil all over and played a blow lamp over it. Do it carefully and you end up with a beautifully "blued" finish. I did this 30 odd years ago and that blue cylinder lagging looks as good now as it did then. Practise with a bit of offcut shim if you feel a bit sceptical but if you are careful you will end up with a handsome lag. Best of luck ------ Stuart

Traditionally cladding was made from Swedish Iron, for small steam engines. This is a form of wrought iron. Stuart engines used to use this I beleive, if my memory serves me correct. I am not aware if it is available these days. If it is, I am sure someone on this forum will know and where to obtain it. Failing that I would go with the blueing of shim as described.

Hello Phil

Rimex Metals (UK) Ltd make blue mirror finish stainless steel sheets from 0.55 mm thickness upwards. The finish on the back of this material is exactly similar to Russian Iron. You may find it difficult to obtain a small quantity.

Rutland Tool and Supply Co.Ltd. in America sell 0.005" thick blued spring steel shim stock in 6" wide rolls

Graham

Many thanks for all your suggestions guys.

I think a few experiments are in order to establish what will work best for me.

Phil

Edited By Phil P on 29/11/2012 13:08:07

Hi Phil,

If you decide to use mild steel you can anneal it to make it more malleable. In order to blue it you can use a domestic oven. I use a small domestic oven for tempering and it will easily reach above blueing temperature. Ovens thermostats are often not very accurate so you will need to test it. Try it first at about 250ºC and increase by about 20º increments until you reach the desired result. Using an oven ensures accurate and even colouring which is not so easy with a flame. For a nice blue you will need about 300ºC. It can then be oiled to protect it.

Best regards

Terry

On our oven gas mark 6 gives a nice dark straw temper.

Neil

Blueing is a traditional method of finishing firearm parts so I feel qualified to stick my oar in...

I think heat blueing will be the way to go, I have used the oven method and the sand bath.

Once you have your oven 'calibrated' like TerryD it's probably the better way to go.

A lot of people quench the part in used motor oil, but I use extra virgin olive oil ( we have 91 olive trees, so we aren't exactly short of the stuff ) - it gives off a pleasant cooking smell is my excuse...
If you simply go for the temper colour without the oil then the part will tend towards a bright blue rather than a 'blacker' blue. Both look good but only you can decide which finish you like best.

Corrosion resistance isn't great with either process, but the oil quench definitely has the edge in that respect.

Thorough degreasing is REALLY important for an even finish whichever method you decide on. Don't handle the part with bare hands afterwards !

I think you'll have a lot of fun experimenting.