Using a Slitting saw ?

Hi guys

I have a myford Super 7 and a MT2 Saw arbour and of course some saws.

I am wondering what the best way set this up. ?

Pictures of peoples set ups will be useful.

Thanks Chris

Depends what you want to slit and how Chris.

For simple rod etc - I just clamp it either in a toolholder or under the original tool clamp (maybe with some packing - and then use the cross slide to put on the cut.

For instance - for cutting rod down the centre, mount the rod level with the saw. Move the rod up til it just touches the saw (having set the topslide to zero), make sure it is touching along its length and then lock the saddle. Add the thickness of the saw and rod together - and then move the topslide back to clear the saw and then forward (using topslide) by half the sum of the two. You can then put the cut on.

For slitting collets (two cuts) - a 'collet' block (such as JS ER32 block) is useful to hold the work & enable a true 90 degree turn to be easily made. It's not hard - and the best way to learn is to cut some scrap. Just taken it nice and easy and brush some cutting oil on the saw. Don't extend the workpiece further than neccessay either. That's about it I think.

Regards,

IanT

Chris

You ask for examples of set ups, the following may be of help

The first one is largely self explanatory

**LINK**

In the next one, the square piece of steel with four corner projections, photo 25, is being used to hold the collet whilst being slit. It could have been a larger square with a round hole but I was using a smaller size scrap that was available.

Being square it enabled the collet to be easily turned though 90 degrees for each slit. The pieces of steel on the cross slide set the height and the top one is a side fence to ensure the collet is slit central for each slit without the need for further measurement.

**LINK**

Photo 27 shows that I also used the simple fixture when milling the anti turn notch

Click on the pictures for a larger view

Harold

Thanks guys.

Of course the most immediate thought that crosses my mind is the method of holding the saw. My arbour is tapered (m2) so may not be suitable to be put in the chuck.

I guess that means I need a different arbour without the taper?

More work for the lathe

If you are worried about the arbour dropping out you might be able to hold it in with a tailstock centre just touching. For added clearance a bit of ingenuity with a pointed stick and a fixed steady will suffice.

For thin saws pay attention to your chip clearance and lubrication.

Theres no chance that your arbour is tapped for a draw bar ? If it is use it, abit of threaded rod, a washer and nut, is all you need. Ian S C

Thanks Baz & Ian

Tapped for a Drawbar Dooh, silly me.

Told you I was a beginer

No worry, when I started, I'd never heard of a draw bar, or a collet chuck, I got my mill / drill, put an end mill in the Jacobs chuck, and got milling. First thing was a tap wrench, nearly finished and the chuck fell out, I still use the tap wrench, it has'nt got too big a chunk out of the side of it, and it reminds me about using draw bar, and propper holders for end mills. Ian S C

I use my slitting saw holder in a collet.

The shock loads on a slitting saw are low as it take many small chips compared to an endmill or slot drill, and they are all in the plane of the sutter, not trying to pull it out of the holder, so a super powerful grip is not required.

Neil

I made an arbour 5/8" dia, with a 20tpi thread on the end to suit my collet chuck, I use this system for fly cutters as well as its the only system I have, the only collet that I have is a 2 MT X 1/4" one, and about the only time I'v used that was when I built one of those Elbow engines, to turn the necked down part of the pistons. Ian S C