John Coates | 24/02/2012 17:28:00 |
![]() 558 forum posts 28 photos | Right the cobalt drills have arrived so I can drill the broken tap out Original hole = 5mm Tap size = M6 x 1.0mm What size cobalt drill should I use and what RPM should I run it at? Thanks folks. The sooner you answer the sooner I can get at it. Oh and will I need coolant? (I don't have a pumped coolant supply btw) John |
JasonB | 24/02/2012 17:43:58 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | I would have thought you wanted solid carbide not Cobalt as thay are not much harder than the HSS the cobalt is added to.
J |
IVATTLMS | 24/02/2012 17:50:17 |
22 forum posts | I agree solid carbide slotdrill no problem |
John Coates | 24/02/2012 18:03:04 |
![]() 558 forum posts 28 photos | Oh arse! |
John Coates | 24/02/2012 18:08:31 |
![]() 558 forum posts 28 photos | What size please for the carbide slot drill? And is ball nose OK? |
Clive Foster | 24/02/2012 19:23:40 |
3630 forum posts 128 photos | A three flute carbide centre cutting endmill did the deed for me in a similar situation. Either M2 or M2.5 size and cutting dry in a Bridgeport varispeed running flat out. Somewhat below book speed, which is approximately supersonic, but it shifted 3 dead taps for me. Found the cutter on E-Bay, can't recall the brand but I think it began with N. Not a job I care to remember. Too many holes, hard spotted material, and rapidly blunting taps. Clive |
John Coates | 29/02/2012 14:54:05 |
![]() 558 forum posts 28 photos |
Thanks Clive Bought a 3 flute 5mm bottom cutting carbide end mill from ebay. Ran it at 1800 rpm and it cut the broken tap out So now I've got a 5mm hole I just need to see if my tap can cut a thread in it as I don't know if using the carbide end mill will have hardened the walls. If not I can cut the thread from a 6mm bolt and silver solder it in place as there will be three other bolts securing the workpiece to the trolley John |
David Littlewood | 29/02/2012 15:04:39 |
533 forum posts | John, You didn't mention - here at least - the material you were tapping, which would affect the answer to your question. Both stainless steel and titanium alloys are notorious for workhardening, other metals mostly less so. Another though - have you seen the Helicoil system for replacing drilled-out tapped holes. Never used it myself but I have seen people say very good things about it. David Edited By David Littlewood on 29/02/2012 15:05:02 |
John Coates | 29/02/2012 15:17:49 |
![]() 558 forum posts 28 photos | David Material is a 15mm thick piece of MS plate Yes have seen Helicoils used on motorbikes, my "models" as I don't do trains or tractions (yet) but full sized motorbikes!
Will try tapping later on. Just chuffed that the end mill got it out. I did break one of the new cobalt drills though before the end mill arrived, just seeing if it would work John |
Ian Abbott | 29/02/2012 15:52:40 |
![]() 279 forum posts 21 photos | Shouldn't think that ms will work harden. Helicoils have worked a treat for me. A drop of Loctite helps them to stay put. Ian |
Ian S C | 01/03/2012 12:29:06 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | John, I think I would tend to either make a bolt to fit the enlarged hole with a head to match the other bolts, or if its a stud, make a stepped stud, save you hunting around for Heli-coils, and a tap for them. Or you can do as I think you may be doing, and plug and redrill and tap. Ian S C |
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