RDG Tools item on ebay
John Coates | 22/09/2011 12:42:42 |
![]() 558 forum posts 28 photos | In need of a tilting vice to allow me to mill V grooves to make various tools from MEW issues as I want to stop using the tilt facility on my mill so I can keep it true
Anyway have found this on ebay and wonder if experienced members on here would consider it a good value item to buy:
I already have a Vertex K4 mill for horizontal rotating angles
Thanks for any help
John |
David Clark 1 | 22/09/2011 12:46:16 |
![]() 3357 forum posts 112 photos 10 articles | Hi There
23 people have bought one.
It looks OK although the thread on the screw looks a little fine and might need replacing eventually.
Should do the job for occasional use.
regards David
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Richard Parsons | 22/09/2011 13:07:49 |
![]() 645 forum posts 33 photos | Looks a bit 'Thin' and short on metal to me. It will do for light work but I would not like to ask it any real questions.
Rdgs
Dick |
Martin W | 22/09/2011 15:46:36 |
940 forum posts 30 photos | John
I think the price says it all
![]() Some time ago I bought a bargain mill/drill vice, not from RDG, at what appeared to be a bargain price and it now is used as a doorstop or footrest. It was replaced with a Soba swivel vice at about twice the price and infinitely better engineered.
So really it's down to 'what you get is what you pay for'. It is probably fit for a drill press but I would query whether it's suitable for accurate milling operations.
All the best
Martin |
John Coates | 22/09/2011 16:11:03 |
![]() 558 forum posts 28 photos | Can anyone suggest a better tilting vice please? As mentioned before I already have a Vertex K4 so I can do angles in the horizontal plane.
A good example of what I want a tilting vice for is to be able to machine the V's in a Keats Angle Plate I bought at Harrogate back in May. The castings have sat on the bench whilst I pondered how to machine these and so concluded that a tilting vice would be the most efficient solution.
John
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Gray62 | 22/09/2011 16:21:16 |
1058 forum posts 16 photos | I have a very similar tilting vice to that one, and to be honest, it lacks the rigidity needed for anything but light milling. I reserve this for the odd job on the drill press that needs a tilting vice. I would look at a Soba or Vertex for a tilting mill vice. An alternative, depending on the headroom you have on the mill, would be a tilting angle plate that you ould then bolt your existing vice to. I use this setup for the odd occasion when a compound angle needs to be machined. |
Harold Hall 1 | 22/09/2011 16:34:06 |
418 forum posts 4 photos | I cannot see John how a tilting vice could be used satisfactorily to machine a Keats angle plate, even using a robust vice. See my website www.homews.co.uk/page213.html and subsequent pages.
Incidentally, the site now runs to almost 350 pages and includes 50 workshop projects and 20 workshop processes, with many more to follow over the next few months. These will be most of the articles I have provided in ME and MEW. Harold Edited By Harold Hall 1 on 22/09/2011 16:37:18 Edited By Harold Hall 1 on 22/09/2011 17:06:31 |
John Coates | 22/09/2011 18:12:40 |
![]() 558 forum posts 28 photos | Posted by Harold Hall 1 on 22/09/2011 16:34:06:
I cannot see John how a tilting vice could be used satisfactorily to machine a Keats angle plate, even using a robust vice. See my website
Actually Harold I dug out MEW 161 and read your article. I just need to make a lot of clamps to be able to do it your way, and buy a protractor! Good news is I do have two angle plates
![]() PS. I do actually find that once I've got things properly aligned, the act of tightening up clamps causes them to go out of alignment. Any fixes for this? Edited By John Coates on 22/09/2011 18:19:23 |
Harold Hall 1 | 28/09/2011 17:46:12 |
418 forum posts 4 photos | Sorry John for having been slow in replying to your question. This is a very difficult question to answer as there are so many variables so can only give a few pointers and will start with castings. Do remove all the high spots on the face to be placed on the faceplate, machine table or angle plate. Even with that done the face will be far from perfect so place a piece of thin hard card between the workpiece and mounting surface. Sheet copper is often mentioned but is expensive and card is freely available. This will increase the contact between the surfaces. However, contact will still not be perfect so do make sure, if possible, that the end of the clamps being used are well in from the workpiece's edge which does in some cases fall away. Say at least 10mm. I think this is possibly one of the more likely causes of the problem The packing end must be higher than the workpiece, but only just, say plus 1mm. Much more, especially with a short clamp, and the clamp stud will have to approach at an angle so that the nut/washer sit cleanly on the clamp surface. If you are using clamps with jacking screws, as I mostly do, above say 40mm workpiece thickness, add and tighten a nut against the clamp to make the assembly more ridged. If the clamps have a clearance hole, add a nut below and above for the same reason. With multiple clamps, gradually tighten each one in turn. In particularly difficult situations, if possible, add supports around the base of the workpiece. Avoid using multiple pieces of steel, etc. to make up the packing height. If you have to do this make sure it is stable. Don't do this on the faceplate! Try, wherever possible, to have the angle plate horizontal in the bench vice whilst mounting the workpiece, then moving it to the machine. If securing a more regular item, rather than a casting, you should not need the card packing, otherwise the other comments all have some relevance. I would like to think that I have solved your problem, but I am not confident, however, the above should provide a starting point. Harold
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