Bob Lamb | 30/08/2010 16:59:00 |
![]() 140 forum posts 51 photos | I would really be grateful if someone would tell me which loctite to use to fix 3 1/2" driving wheels to the axles. Should I also pin them? I managed to press on the pony truck wheels OK by following LBSC to the letter but I am a bit worried about the quartering having read that the wheels might twist slightly when pressing them home. Also any suggestions welcomed on which of the many quartering methods / jigs is easiest, simplest and most successful - I don't want much do I? Thanks in advance Bob |
chris stephens | 30/08/2010 17:27:26 |
1049 forum posts 1 photos | Loctite 638 is the strong one.
Ned |
Nicholas Farr | 31/08/2010 00:26:28 |
![]() 3988 forum posts 1799 photos | Hi, 638 is a high strength with a diametrical clearance of up to 0.25 mm, 603 is the same high strength but with a clearance only up to 0.1mm. Both these reach thier handling strength in only 8 minutes so you must be sure that you get your wheels in the correct alinment without to much hanging around. Once this stuff is set you will have to heat the whole joint to 250 C if you need to remove it. 641 and 668 are both medium strengths and are for clearances of up to 0.1mm and 0.15mm respectivly and have a handling strength in 30 minutes and are more easily dismantelled if the need arises.
Hope this helps.
Regards Nick. Edited By Nicholas Farr on 31/08/2010 00:28:17 |
SpringbokB1 | 31/08/2010 05:10:01 |
![]() 4 forum posts 28 photos | In 2007 a local Fastenal dealer held a Supplier Show where various suppliers displayed their wares with representatives to answer questions and sell their goods. One of the stands was Loctites which was most fortunate for me because I was then trying to find out what version of Loctite I should use for fixing the driving wheels to the axles on the 5" gauge Springbok I am building. The representative recommended Loctite 620 which has the highest shear strength of all the cylindrical retaining compounds listed - 3,800 psi - has a permitted diametrical clearance of 15 thou, a Setup time of 30 minutes and Full Strength curing time of 24 hours. It is also temperature resistant up to 450 degrees C. Loctite Primer 7471 T is recommended for use with the Loctite 620 although I did not have any and am completely satisfied with end result without it. At the show I was given a 50 plus page Loctite Maintenance Solutions manual which is a very useful reference. |
John Olsen | 31/08/2010 06:59:44 |
1294 forum posts 108 photos 1 articles | I've been using the 620 for various applications around the workshop, although not loco wheels, with good results. One thing I would say is that the 7471 primer is something you want to use with good ventilation, it is pretty acrid sort of stuff. I dpn't know if it is especially hazardous as such, it has the normal sort of warnings of any aerosol, and the only ingredient they actually list is acetone, apart from the propellant of course. But the smell is not an acetone smell! So it may not be particularly poisonous as such, but it sure smells like it. The idea is to go away for the recommended 15 minutes drying time, but I am sure your own sinuses will give you that idea pretty quickly anyway. regards John |
KWIL | 31/08/2010 09:04:03 |
3681 forum posts 70 photos | 603 is also oil tolerant, so any contamination of the parts is less of a problem. If you use a high diametral clearance type, how do you ensure that the wheels remain truly square to the axles? |
DMB | 31/08/2010 10:52:57 |
1585 forum posts 1 photos | Hi all,
I remember a loco. construction series where the builder (Les Wharnett?) described initial machining of the portion of axle which would end up `inside` the wheel, to correctly
fit tightly, then M/C away the middle part to required diameter for the Loctite, leaving two lands about 1 / 32 nd inch each end of wheelseat as a guide to accurately locate wheel.
I am fairly sute it was the Lynton & Barnstaple loco described a few years ago in Eingineering In Miniature.
I would follow the above for ALL wheels or any other `shaft-in-a-hole.` Where there is a twisting force as in Driving wheels or gears on a shaft, I would also use some sort of pin,peg,wedge, spline or key - you know, the appropriate `mechanical` method of securing a shaft in a hole.
Good luck, Bob,John. |
Bob Lamb | 31/08/2010 18:11:01 |
![]() 140 forum posts 51 photos | Thank you to all who have replied - KWIL's thoughts on "wobbly wheels" was something that troubled me if I left too much slack for the glue and John's suggestion of relieving the centre of the axle seat seems a good solution. The 638 is now hopefully in the post and I will try my best to quarter them accurately. If it all turns properly I intend to pin them. Thanks again for a great forum - Bob |
ray r | 31/08/2010 20:40:28 |
6 forum posts | Hi all,new on here.With regards to pinning wheels,I used Loctite (think it was 602) & secured the wheels to the axle by drilling half in the axle & wheel starting with a centre drill,then no.31 & then1/8 to givea close fitting hole for a silver steel pin.
The loco by the way is a Clarksons 5" g 2-10 -0.
Regards,Ray. |
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.