ML10 Headstock Belt Change

Several years ago I bought an ML10 out of the estate of a deceased colleague and it has been in storage ever since. I have never used it and the time has now come to allow it to go to someone who can make use of it. I have stripped it down for cleaning and servicing and the head-stock drive belt needs replacing. I have searched on YouTube for a demonstration video but can't find one and I have the Ian Bradley ML10 Manual which doesn't contain anything about it. So, could someone point me in the direction as where I might find some relevant information, please?

BTW, I forgot to mention it is a later machine (circa 1979) without the split bearings where the spindle ran in the head-stock casting which I believe was a feature of the earlier models.

Edited By Chris Crew on 20/10/2022 20:28:11

Chris

I was contemplating purchase of a Speed10 a while ago, and found this: **LINK**

https://www.instructables.com/Stripping-a-Myford-ML10-lathe-Speed-10-headstock/

Luckily, I bookmarked it, and hopefully it will be of some help to you.

MichaelG.

Hi Chris,

A few years ago I changed the bearings on my Speed 10, and found this helpful - it says in the article that it is a similar process to change the drive belt .............. https://www.instructables.com/Stripping-a-Myford-ML10-lathe-Speed-10-headstock/

Chris, If you have access to Facebook, join the Myford Lathes private group; worth doing anyway as there's quite a few helpful folk on there.
I uploaded three useful pdfs to the files section last June, which I salvaged from the Yahoo group before its demise.
Failing that, send me a PM with a real email address

Bill.

Michael G,

Thank you for that, I now know what is needed to be done and what to expect during the process. Very helpful.

You will save yourself a lot of trouble by fitting a link belt.

If you use a link belt, pay the extra money for a good brand name such as Fenner. The cheap plastic ones have a reputation for slipping.

I would NOT recommend using a link belt on a small lathe UNLESS as an emergency repair ! Noel.

May we know your reasons for this, please?

.

You may have worried thousands of Boxford users there, Noel

**LINK**

https://www.boxford-software.com/spares/3656Understd.html

[ final item on the list ]

MichaelG.

I don't have an ML10, but have used a variety of linked belts on a variety of different machines.
I believe Boxford recommended and supplied one of the original linked belts designs, The Brammer, held together with a set of metal rivets.
When I bought my Super 7, it was also fitted with one of these, which worked fine, but was getting quite old; when new, the lathe would have been fitted with a standard V belt.

Since the belt was old enough to start to perish, I replaced it with one of the white plastic linked belts from RDG, though they are also supplied by other outlets.
It slipped for much of the time, even when thoroughly degreased.
I replaced it with their slightly more expensive black variant, which was no better.
I may have got the colours the wrong way round, but it doesn't matter, as they no longer list either.

They were made up of links of solid plastic and didn't appear to gave ant fabric reinforcing.
RDG now seem to supply Megadyne link belt, in green; this is still a form of plastic, but with an internal reinforcement.

Prior to RDG selling it, I'd already bought some from an eBay supplier for about £14.50 per metre.
It works fine on the Super 7, though I think you need more tension than a conventional V belt.
It's similar to the Fenner Powertwist, but cheaper; I've never used the Fenner belt so can't comment on it, though it seems highly regarded.

I then bought a Warco 720 Super 7 clone, which needed a new belt.
I still had the old Brammer, so used that initially, whilst awaiting a replacement.
I also had some new Nutlink in stock; I tried this, but it's physically deeper, so I couldn't select the lowest belt speed, as the metal joining bits fouled on the casting.
The same proved true of some T nut belt I had in stock.

I use both T Nut & Nutlink successfully on a pillar drill and power hacksaw, but there is more space around the pullies, and a greater distance between them.
I wouldn't use either on a small lathe, due to bulk and stiffness.

I also tried some smaller section T Nut on the motor drive for the Super 7. There's no obvious reason to, as a conventional V belt fits without and dismantling, but I had it in stock; It didn't work out, due to the greater depth fouling on the belt cover.

The Megadyne works fine, provided you get the tension correct; I used the guide from Fenner's site for their Powertwist.

I've also noticed, that if you have a worn pulley, such that a belt sits lower in the groove, both T Nut and Nutlink have their inner metal fasteners fouling the bottom of the groove.
A new conventional V belt, Megadyne, and I presume Fenner Powertwist, are OK

Bill

RIGHT ega ! Firstly strech and the need to retension, then high frequency vibration. An A( or other ) section belt will have better power transmission. On lathes or mills with ball or roller bearings it is normally only a small issue to remove the spindle and gives an oppertunity to chech bearings Etc On my Myford the belt lasted 50years !

I would only use IF I had to or emergency to keep a machine running though not uncommon on agricultural machinery !

I knew some would question my opinion. Noel.

That the original belt WAS an A32 on a boxford and a slightly shorter(29.5" one on the myford could be that lazyness or incompetance is the reason for link belt ?

Edited By noel shelley on 21/10/2022 12:51:42

noel shelley:

Thanks for explaining.

I asked for your reasons as your earlier post seemed to suggest that a link belt was completely inappropriate and I wondered if I was missing some fundamental reason why I should not be using them on my own machine.

I can live with stretch and reduced power transmission and don't seem to be troubled by high frequency vibration.

Having used them on agricultural applcations nearly 50 years ago now. If the belt stretched and slipped, it was easy to remove a link. Often wetting the belt would solve the slippage for a while. Also recall using ones that had a metal link fixed to the belt by 2 screws. These could slip when the metal joiner met a very small pulley.

When I replaced the belt on my speed 10 ( referencing the instructables instructions mentioned above) I found bashing out the spindle a harrowing experience. I ended up removing the headstock from the bed so I could up end it on blocks on the floor and bashing it hard with a lump hammer via an aluminium drift in the spindle. I then felt I may have damaged the bearings but then getting the old bearing shells out and hammering new ones in was equally traumatic. Not something Id recommend lightly unless of course mine was in too tightly in the first place. So when Myfords say to just to tap the spindle out they mean with a great big hammer. Having replaced the belt with a new identical V belt from a reputable supplier I then found I had really awful vibrations at all speeds. This seemed to be caused by the belt having been stored in a squashed state and was no longer round. I put up with this for a few months hoping the rubber would lose memory of its shape but it never did. I ended up cutting that belt out and replacing with a fenner link belt which is smooth, rarely slips and can be removed occasionally for cleaning in white spirit.

I have run my ML10 for many years wiyh a link belt. I am still on the first link belt put on about 7 years ago.

The lathe is well used, and often maching or threading quite large stock.

The link belt has always proven entirely reliable and satisfactory.

John

Just a quick update on changing the headstock belt with the help of the advice received in this forum, so thank you all for that.

Yes, the spindle did take a little driving out with a copper-faced hammer but it wasn't too bad an experience. Upon re-assembly I experienced a little difficulty which I determined to be the rather tight fit of the back-gear Woodruff key rather than the light press fit of the rear ball race on the spindle. By relieving the key in the key-way by rubbing the sides lightly on a smooth flat file re-assembly was greatly facilitated. In fact I removed the spindle again just to prove how relatively easy it was to do the second time round. Others may experience the same issue and may wish to bear this in mind.

BTW, I did not use the OEM replacement belt because you can get a Dunlop branded A25 belt for less than two-quid including postage from a well-known online auction site.

Edited By Chris Crew on 25/11/2022 17:42:16

I was under the impression that to save bother with removing the spindle from Myford lathes, a linked belt was an excellent idea. If you are unsure of the size, quality and length required, Lathes UK sell linked belts.

The Smart & Brown model A at the museum has a linked belt from the motor to the gearbox as standard, Mike took one link out of it as it was at the limit of adjustment years ago, I bought a new belt just in case, but it is still in the cupboard.