ML super 7 belt

I need to replace the head stock drive belt on my Super 7 with a Fenner link belt.

I have found a company called lathe spares online who have one for about 23 pounds but they do not take pay-pal and I am reluctant to give out my credit card details. Anybody used this company or could give me an alternative.

Cheers Mike

A ) Don't use link belt B) you need an A29.5 belt any good transmission/ bearing supplier will have one, just called my supplier LESS than £4 +vat. Noel.

I've used Lathe-spares more than once, never had any problems, I think they supply a 'proper' belt for about a fiver which as Noel says is a better bet than linkbelt..

No connection with them except as a satisfied customer for odds & sods, their pricing structure is a bit more grounded in reality than some other Myford spares places.

RS stock them. The red Fenner link belts are excellent if you have the right size, mount them the right way round, and apply enough tension. Don't buy the cheap plastic version from RDG, they slip.

RS stock them. The red Fenner link belts are excellent if you have the right size, mount them the right way round, and apply enough tension. Don't buy the cheap plastic version from RDG, they slip.

**LINK**

**LINK** - take PayPal

I already have a cheap plastic belt from RDG that is why I need to replace it. I would rather fit a link belt than attempt to take the machine apart and risk upsetting the settings. I looked at RS but I have no idea how the belts dimensions are taken , and as I could see no mention of what belt would fit a Myford how can I order one.

Thanks for replies anyway , but I am none the wiser. Mike

You need to measure the width at the top of the pulleys and Google for the standard dimensions.. As for length, IIRC I bought a metre for my Super 7, but the big bore S7 has a narrower belt than the ML7 so that wouldn't help you.

This will probably tell you what you need to know -

**LINK**

It's amazing what you can find in one Google query - people should perhaps try it.

If you must use a link belt then order 1m it will be more than enough ! Though dismantling the head stock is not hard and resetting the bearings is easy - you will learn a useful skill that will make sure your headstock is properly set - it may not be so now. Noel.

Yes, I've tried both black and white plastic ones from RDG, and had little success with either.
I went with one of these green fibre reinforced ones off eBay, very similar to the red Fenner one, but the colour matches my lathe and, more importantly, it's cheaper; It also works well.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174456949982

The company does seem to have a web presence, but doesn't list this particular belt
https://industria.co.uk/brands/fenner-drives-2

See also, from the manufacturer
https://megadynegroup.com/files/resources/attachments/md_broc_acculink_web_am_en.pdf

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 10/03/2022 22:23:14

Have bought belts, Orings, seals and bearings from Simply Bearings. Very helpful. They stock Fenner Nutlink belts nutlink, but I've never used link belts. I do know that the generator on Tornado is driven off one of the tender axles by a link belt, otherwise they'd have to take an axle out to change the belt, which would be more than a bit inconvenient.

Nutlink belts, like T-Nut ones are deeper than the Fenner Powertwist, or the ones I linked to in my previous post.
I'm not sure if that would cause a clearance problem in the S7 headstock; It certainly did on my Warco 720, which is a close clone from the late '70s.
The extra depth fouled on the casting, so I struggled to obtain the lowest belt speed.
That isn't to say they are a bad option, I use one on the power hacksaw, and another on one of my drill presses.

Bill

Just coming back on this one for the sake of completeness.

I've just tried a length of NuTlink belt on my genuine Super-7, as opposed to the Warco 720 clone.
Like the Warco, I can't select the lowest speed belt drive in the S-7 headstock, as the deeper section of the belt doesn't easily allow the transfer of the belt onto the largest pulley; the little T nuts foul on the front of the headstock casting.

In the past I also tried a link belt where the "rivets" were actually thin headed hex nuts and bolts; this was also too deep and fouled on the casting.

When I originally bought the lathe 30+ years ago, it came fitted with a rather worn Brammer link belt; the type where the rivets are slightly domed/flat both ends, inside and outside the belt. That just fitted OK, but was eventually replaced as the links started to perish.

Bill

All sorted now, many thanks guys.

Mike