Lever operated tailstock attachment Myford

Hi all

Dipping my toe again into the pool of knowledge

I have a lever operated tailstock attachment for my ML 7

Can someone please explain what its used for

Many Thanks

Lucky you!

It's a desirable replacement for the standard screw feed - quicker, more sensitive action for drilling with the ability to retract rapidly.

They are selling for a silly sum - that makes sense because the diameter of the hand wheels and the diameter of the tail stock lead screw makes it a little difficult

Thanks Ega

I think they are advertised for silly money, not sure if they actually sell for it, I have seen a dealer in the south west advertising one for over a year now and he hasn’t sold it.

What makes sense ???????

Robert Butler

The lever action is excellent for drilling lots of holes quickly with no particular need for depth accuracy. A conventional tailstock provides good accuracy but slows drilling down if you're in a rush. Nice to have both.

Of the two, I prefer conventional because most of the drilling in my workshop is done on milling machine or pillar drill, and for most purposes they do a better job faster. Lathe drilling is still important, but - for what I do - a lever action tailstock isn't a big deal. It depends - others love 'em.

In the past, Myfords were often put on repetition work where accessories such as adjustable depth stops, lever tailstocks, and tailstock turret tool-holders are the bees knees. Although there must be lots of exceptions, I suspect most of us rarely do repetition work.

Order a copy of L.H.Sparey's "The Amateur's Lathe" : he describes and explains most Myford-era lathe work brilliantly.

Dave

There is a copy of the tailstock lever action being cast for the M Type lathe. I don't know if it is adjustable for other lathes as I have yet to see one in the flesh.

David

Edited By David George 1 on 08/03/2022 17:25:45

LHS was a convert to the advantages of the lever feed tailstock: "A few months after obtaining my ML.7 lathe I fitted this attachment ... since when - if may coin a phrase - I have used no other." (from A Man and His Lathe).

He also points out the advantage of easier self-feeding when using taps and dies and the easier use of reamers (where feed and withdrawal should be rapid).

TEE Publishing may still have copies of this excellent little book.

They work well, but secondary drilling of brass with a normal drill bit, they can bite in. A split collar can be made to go onto the shaft and be used as a positioned stop in the back of the unit. They are just as fast as the rack and pinion tail stock units, and the rack and pinion gives a much longer drilling length or reach. The rack and pinion is not as sensitive as the lever one, but in saying that, I have successfully drilled 0.3mm holes for 3d printer nozzles on mine in both brass and steel. I own both having 1st bought the lever one, then bout the rack and pinion with the indexing drill holder attachment. After the one job I did with the indexer drilling, have never used it again, but have never removed the rack and pinion unit either or used the original hand wheel unit. But have kept it for the one day. My tailstock now has a sprung fit caliper holder for a cheap digital read out, and I have made a split collar to be used for a physical stop for drilling constant depth operations.

Neil

What it is ysed for

Has anyone got one fitted to their machine

Id appreciate a picture

Thanks

Ian

Is this it here?...

**LINK**

Lever operated tailstocks often come with a stop for accurate, and fast, depth control.

Some of us do repetition work:

All done on a lathe with a lever action tailstock.

Andrew

This is an excellent forum thanks for all of replies 😀

Ian, thanks for clarifying that, it was the justification I was struggling with, "because the diameter of the hand wheels and the diameter of the tailstock leadscrew makes it a little difficult", this didn't seem to have any relevance.

On the ML7 the hand wheel and trust plate is removed and the device fitted in place. This differs from the S7 where the tailstock barrel is replaced and the attachment fitted with an integral bearing.

Robert Butler

I love my lever attachment, with one reservation. The handle sticks out a long way and catches me when I'm walking past in my cramped workshop. I've taken to removing the handle when not using it.

George

I have the rack version on mine - wouldn't be without it!

The other advantage of a lever action tailstock is it gives you a more sensitive "feel" when drilling small holes so you don't end up putting too much pressure on those small drill bits. It also allows a quicker and more sensitive "pecking" motion when withdrawing the drill momentarily to clear swarf from the flutes. Doing the same by winding the tailstock handwheel is cumbersome by comparison. The lever action is more like using a drill press laid down horizontal. Quick, easy and sensitive. Well worth having.

MikeK's link shows the ML7 attachment.

If anyone is interested, there are photos of my customised version for the Super 7 in my Miscellaneous album (search for 645 and 646).

My custom handle can be instantly released/clamped to adjust the leverage or to move it in out of the way or even removed completely to use it as a drift to release tailstock tooling.

So, what does one do to use a tailstock centre with a lever-action set-up? Is there a cunning way to apply carefully adjusted preload to a centre so it neither burns out nor is loose? And to lock it in that position as quickly and easily as the standard handwheel and thread set-up? Or does one have to remove the lever set-up and put the handwheel back in place? Or do you just apply the pressure with the lever and rely on the tailstock barrel lock to hold it in place under load?