Myford ml10 spindle removal

I’m in the process of removing the spindle on my myford ml10. I read on here that one of the steps was to loosen two grub screws on the shaft - I can only find one, however. Is this pulley hole supposed to have one? It was worn over slightly, and I cleared the hole using a small drill bit, but I see nothing

this one has a set screw.

The only reason I am pulling it apart is to replace the belt. Am I better off just getting a links letter v belt, and leave this all together?

This won’t in itself help much, Jeremy … because my copy of Nr. 743 D id missing its ‘Pictorial Parts List’ :

… but hopefully it will trigger someone’s memory.

MichaelG.

Thanks Michael.

Does anyone else here have this parts diagram?

also, any recommendations on whether I should replace the v belt with a linkable belt? I’d really prefer to not dismantle the unit if it isn’t needed.

Edited By Jeremy Smith 2 on 11/01/2022 17:17:26

I've taken a photo of the spindle assembly drawing, but struggling to recall how to post it on here. Copy & paste doesn't work. Give us a mo. Allan

While I am a link belt user you still need to get your headstock sorted anyway

...and since you are now on that job...

Hi again Jeremy. This is the text from the ML10 instructions version 743K which matches the diagram I posted. Some of the item numbers are different to the 743D version that Michael posted for you. I believe you only have grub screw 54 locking the bull gear to the spindle, and grub screw 144 in the collar that prevents the pulley cone from endfloating, plus of course the spindle gear and bearing preloading collar and their associated lock screws . I'd suggest you do replace the vee belt because they're cheap, reliable and quiet, and that also gives you a chance to inspect the bearings at the same time. Happy overhauling. Allan

Just so I’m clear - I am not missing a hidden set screw inside of the pulley, correct? That little hole in the pulley I found clearly looked like a casting air pocket, which was slightly opened over use of the machine. I ran my small bit in it, just to be sure it wasn’t a set screw hole. I even blew some air in it just to be sure to clear any chips out of the hole.

Upon looking at your post again, I’m thinking that there is a set screw hidden to the left of the pulley, which is loosened once you tap the spindle out slightly?

Jeremy, if the only reason you have to take the spindle out is to replace the belt, personally I would just replace it with a link belt and leave it be. If you suspect your bearings, well thats another thing. I went through this process a year ago on my Speed 10 and getting the spindle out was such a struggle I ended up damaging the roller bearings and replacing those too. Also hammering the new bearings in fully home and straight was not easy! I did this to replace a worn link belt with a brand new solid belt but was disappointed to find the lathe then suffered from horrendous vibrations that shook whole bench. This lasted for weeks so I eventually I cut that belt out and replaced it with a new link belt and now theres no vibration at all!

Regarding the grub screw; Ive just been out to look at mine and there is no grub screw on the pulley set. There is one however on the positioning collar (part no. 10370) on the left, between the bearing housing and the pulley set. Your photo however looks different to mine in that the collar on yours is much larger diameter and even looks to be part of the pulley set. Can you confirm if the pulley and collar are separate or as one? The pulley set is not screwed to the spindle as it has to spin freely on the spindle when back gear is engaged. The rotation from the belt-pulley is transmitted under normal running by the catch on the bull wheel. The purpose of the postioning collar with the grub screw is to take up the end float on the pulley set so that is screwed to the spindle. I’m just wondering if on yours the pulley was updated to incorporate the positioning collar and end-float take up was either not required or achieved by some other means?

hope that helps.

John

Sorry Jeremy, In my rush to provide you with pictures, I didn't notice yours is a plain bearing ML10 so probably best to ignore my pictures & instructions above.

But for the suspect setscrew at the bottom of your small pulley groove.....not sure how different your version of the ML10 is, but on mine the pulley cone (and small gear permanently locked to it) turns freely on the spindle whilst the big bull gear is permanently keyed to the spindle. There's a radial sliding toothed peg which locks the two gears together for normal direct drive, and unlocks them for reduction drive through the backgear.

So if you have a similar feature for backgear disengagenment, you could set it to disengage, and that should allow the pulley cone to spin. If it does, you'll know the set screw you drilled to look for isn't there/isn't gripping the pulley cone.

John, the pulley and collar(where there should be a collar that is), I’s one solid piece.

I am going to leave it alone, and use a linkable belt like you mentioned. However, I need to figure this out because in the future, it will need to be serviced possibly.

John, Is this the correct size belt?**LINK**

Just to emphasise the point which Allan made :

Jeremy’s lathe is an ML 10 [with plain bearings] … Nr. 743 D refers
Allan’s lathe is a Speed 10 [with taper bearings] … Nr. 743 K refers

The spindle assemblies are different and the instruction books are different.

… I don’t have either machine, but I have admired them from afar

MichaelG.

Jeremy,

you might already have seen this but on www.instructables.com is one on 'Stripping a ML10 (Speed 10) headstock with details that you might find helpful inc references to the two grubscrews etc.

Jeremy, similar belt to that in type but mine is 1/2” wide not 3/8”. It’s a Fenner belt. You need to check the width of your pulley grooves at the top. I got mine from Lathe Spares in UK advertised as specifically for the ML10 but I would think other suppliers do Fenner belts as well.

With the Drummond M everything is grubscrewed in except the bullwheel which you need to bash out because it's on a tight tapered square key fit to the shaft

One of the 2 holes on the pulley is actually an oil hole for the pulley backgear mechanism

Edited By Ady1 on 12/01/2022 10:28:46

Jeremy smith 2, I also have an ml10 how ever I notice the spindle gear box appears quite different from my own lathe, it appears the baring holders are removable on your lathe but on my lathe the casing is one piece, is yours the ml 10 speed or just the ml10? Also does everyone know where to buy a replacement lead screw and head stock spindle for a readable price?

Edited By Lee Wells on 30/06/2023 12:45:25