Kennedy Hacksaw Crank refurb

The crank pin on my elderly and much used Kennedy Flexcut literally fell out, jamed the crank and the ensuing heat broke the belt (which is annoying since I don't know where to get replacements affordably)

Time for some much needed refurbishment. I'm wondering what the best way to do this would be. The pin was clearly knurled and pressed into the crank (see photo) and has over time worn the hole so loose that it wobbles.

I have available the usual complement of workshop equipment (including toolroom lathe and jig borer with boring heads) but no hydraulic press.

Edited By Alan Bain on 25/05/2020 11:54:06

Here ya go **LINK**

You are lucky to have a working one.

I have one in bits at the moment, trying to work out how to repair badly worn slides.

Adrian

I'd be inclined to bore to suit a new (stepped ?) pin, made of something reasonably wear resistant, and use one of the high strength retainers, like Loctite 638, or maybe a slower curing one if you prefer.

Tony at Lathes.co.uk used to supply belts for them, but they were quite expensive; don't seem to be listed now, but see the section on Betalon belts
http://www.lathes.co.uk/page4.html

edit, just seen the post above mine. I clearly wasn't looking hard enough; I'm sure there used to be a link on Tony's normal belts page. 

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 25/05/2020 12:22:19

Thanks! I was surprised that my slides show almost no wear - which puzzles me - guess they must have been cyanide hardened or similar to have survived so long in such grimy conditions!

Alan

My problem was hubris and a bargain, plus not wanting to get too close to the saw when I bought it. The mains lead was so hardened and cracked there was a couple of inches of bare conductor sticking out of the motor.

When I saw it running smoothly I snapped up the bargain, didn't think to check how loose the slides were.

Live and learn

Adrian

If the flange is steel, I would make a suitable pin to fit the bored-out hole and ‘glue’ it in place with an electric welder from the rear of the flange. It would not be likely to fall out again.

People have used polyvee belts running on the back.

Never leave a Kennedy unattended in case it jams.

Adrian,

back in the day you could get stepped piston rings to avoid the wear ridge in an engine bore. In the same way if you remove the top slider and file a relief on each end you can avoid the wear ridge in the bow. Worked on my 90

Oil it each time you use it.

PolyVee running rib side down on flat pulleys works just fine. I imagine the ribs squidge a bit to improve grip.

Clive

As I found out to my cost many years ago and the motor pulley slipping on the belt virtually 'burnt' it's way through the belt. The belt was ruined as you can imagine.

Phil

Phil - that's exactly what I did - left it going while I swapped hats and became cook and came back to find a split belt!

Alan

Well thanks for the help - this is now in process; boring for a stepped pin and then holding it with a blob of weld.

Haven't worked out what to use for the pin; silver steel, EN8 or EN24T look like the options from what's on the shelves.