Ml7 New Owner.

Hi guys.Feeling bit daft about this.However, if you dont know, you dont know & I dont!

I got my drill chuck from RG tools.All working fine,using the RG arbour.However, Im not sure how to remove it.Plus if the drilling gets va bit tough, it spins.I looked on various videos ,and most seem to just unwind the back stop, and it pushes itself off.Mine wont wind back that far.Last time, I used a rubber malet, which cant be right.Plus the arbour doesnt have a flat edge(as my other one does) to use a spanner to remove it.

Secondlly, I was turning down some Delerin rodding (Plastic) its a fairly large diameter, and one of the chuck jaws fell out.Now, I cant get the jaws realighned Obviously im missing something here!

Put the jaws in their respective slots. Identify No1 and hold all three in with one hand whilst you turn the chuck key backwards. When the jaws are fully out they will 'jump' off the end of the scroll with a click. When No1 jaw jumps start winding them in, making sure you keep inwards pressure until they are all engaged on the scroll.

re the drill arbour, lock down tailstock, place towel to protect bed and drill chuck and either use a deadblow hammer or normal hammer and piece of wood to protect the back of chuck and give a smart tap (or use a drift through the tailstock shaft if using ML7).

Check state of taper for burrs or scratches and remedy if necessary. Sometimes a thin wrap of appropriately cut paper with reduce propensity of chuck to spin but mostly technique is keep the speed up and the torque low when drilling.

Re the main chuck, as per Pete, It is always a bit tricky first few times and likely you will get one jaw too deep or one wont engage the scroll but stick with it and you will get there. If necessary, take all jaws out completely line up the scroll rotating backwards just past 1 slot, locate all jaws correctly in their numbered slots and try closing up again while keeping pressure on the jaws as you do so they engage the scroll correctly.

Fairly easy to see the outer end of the scroll as it passes by a jaw gap. Fit No.1 first, then 2 and 3 on the same circuit. May need to fit the first jaw in one particular slot to obtain the optimum concentricity for the chuck (it is unlikely to be perfect).

The morse taper needs something behind it, if not long enough to self eject. A suitably rounded bolt, screwed in a drawbar arbor, is sufficient, but suppliers like Arceuro will supply a pukka-looking part to convert from drawbar arbor to a tanged one.

edited to add that drawbar arbors can often be removed with wedges - easily made or can be sourced from Arc or others.  Wedges avoid having to thump the drawbar with a soft-headed mallet (do not us a steel hammer!).  Some arbors are made with self-extraction in design.

Martin got there, mostly, before me - probably awake longer than me.

Edited By not done it yet on 02/01/2020 17:43:04

The later super 7 had the self ejecting tail stock, not the early ML7 though. Not sure what year it was introduced.

If, after fitting the chuck jaws in the correct order, (Engage 1, then turn scroll forward to just before 2, engage 2 then turn forwards again to engage 3 ) one of the jaws is ahead of, or behind the other two, remove all three jaws and examine the rear side which engages with the scroll. probably, you will then find that the first, inner "tooth" has been broken off.

It does happen, sadly! But all is not lost..

The jaws can be synchronised by fitting the undamaged jaws in the normal way, but the jaw without the first "tooth" will need to be engaged on the second turn of the scroll.

Hopefully, all three will then meet in the middle as they should. Work will not be held to run absolutely concentric, (I have only, to my surprise, ever, found a three jaw chuck that does hold work dead on centre. If the run out is less than 0.005", it is pretty good chuck.

HTH

Howard

Thanks guys !!!

I've never had a chuck spin on it's arbor, or had the Morse taper spin in the tailstock; and I drive my drills pretty hard on an industrial lathe. I've had drills spin in the chuck, but not the tapers. If the tapers are spinning with a relatively low power lathe then I suspect the mating surfaces are dirty, bruised or the tapers are not correct.

Andrew

Which end of the taper spins? Chuck or the taper in the tailstock? Not unusual for older myfords that have been abused to have damage in the tailstock taper... If it's the chuck on the arbor I had a similar problem from a chuck and arbor from one of the common suppliers, can't remember which. Turned out the arbor was too long and bottoming in the chuck just as it started to grip. Ended up putting the end on the grinder and shortening by about 0.030". Tapped it back on and been fine ever since! Eject the arbor from the tailstock taper on an ML7 with a brass drift.

Paul.

Paul,

Get yourself a genuine Myford manual for your model of lathe. Original manuals are available from Myford, second-hand on eBay or even a free download as a PDF.

There are significant differences between the ML7 and the Super 7 so the hand books are specific to the actual model

Best of luck

Eric

If you haven't got an oil gun for the lathe, don't buy the Myford pom pom type. Get a Reilang, that way the oil will go where you want it, rather than over everywhere else.

My advice would be to fit and use the Four Way toolpost, rather than the standard. In that way you can have three tools set up and available in seconds, rather than having to change and shim up a tool every time that you need something different.

The Rear Toolpost will make parting off a great deal easier, so fit that to the Cross Slide, and mount the parting tool in it, UPSIDEDOWN.

It will be time well spent to make up  a Tool Centre Height Gauge.  t will save a lot of time in setting tools to the centreline  height of the lathe.

With a Rear Toolpost, it will need two blades.  The underside of the upper blade is used for setting tools in the front Toolpost, and the upper surface of the lower blade for setting any tool in the Rear Toolpost.

If you are unsure of what one looks like, PM me and with an E mail address, and I'll send a picture of the one that I made and use frequently. Apart from a two or three grubscrews, there are only four parts. And it can be made with only one size of Tap if you are short of kit, at this stage.

Howard

Edited By Howard Lewis on 03/01/2020 15:46:42

I am watching this thread with interest, having just bought a super 7. Mine has the 4 way tool post. Was looking at the quick change so no sharp tool bits sticking around to catch skin on. Looking on youtube at Steve Jordan & others it seems there is a problem getting one to fit without milling down the bed.

Was glad to be rid of the standard tool post arrangement, to fit a 4 way, and then a rear toolpost.

On the lathe that succeeded the ML7, I made a 4 way rear toolpost,.to match the front one.So up to six tools can be available. (Front chamfer, rear chamfer, and parting, in the rear one ).

I own, but have never yet used a Tailstock capstan. Still can't get out of the habit of changing drill chucks!

Howard

Does the rear toolpost hold on by using a T bolt in the slides of the bed.

On the ML7 the rear toolpost was clamped on using the rear Tee slot in the long cross slide.

On my present lathe (16 years old ETR BL12-24 similar to Warco BH 600 /Chester Craftsman ) the 4 way rear toolpost is located by two small dowels against the rear of the cross slide. and is clamped to it by Tee bolts in the rearmost Tee slot. Actually, a long Tee nut, tapped for two M8 studs, to pass through the base of the toolpost, to take washerfaced M8 nuts.

Howard.