Dell | 07/12/2019 14:06:39 |
![]() 230 forum posts 44 photos | Hi all update I have a 11mm rotary broach with a 16mm shank but the holder is to expensive for just one job.
Edited By Derek Allum on 07/12/2019 14:08:32 |
Pete Rimmer | 07/12/2019 14:15:04 |
1486 forum posts 105 photos | Do you have a pillar drill or milling machine Derek? You can make a basic broach driver using some scrap stock and a ball bearing. Simply drill an off-set counterbore in the stock and load it in your drill/mill then make a similar one for the broach but with the hole central, and put the ball bearing between them with some grease for lube. I've broached a couple of things like this. Edited By Pete Rimmer on 07/12/2019 14:15:36 |
Jeff Dayman | 07/12/2019 14:38:50 |
2356 forum posts 47 photos | Just thinking outside the box a bit - if a rough and ready tool would do for this job rather than a beautifully finished custom broached job, here's an alternate idea. Buy a cheap deep hex socket from a hardware store or auto supply. Turn and bore a shank of mild steel, or find a piece of pipe the right ID and OD. Cut the square drive section of the socket off with a cutoff wheel in an angle grinder or Dremel type tool. Weld or silver solder remaining hex portion of socket to shank / pipe. Tool made. |
not done it yet | 07/12/2019 15:46:03 |
7517 forum posts 20 photos | I recently enquired about wobble broaches in this thread. Might help a bit. |
Dell | 07/12/2019 18:20:36 |
![]() 230 forum posts 44 photos | Thanks for the replies the tool I want to make is a clock mainspring winder to get the mainspring out of the clock barrel for servicing and or replacing so I will be using it quite a lot . although I will be using the tool I made regularly I hopefully won’t be using the broach more than once that is why the tool company said I should get the 16mm shank broach and it SHOULD be strong enough to press in , but I would prefer to do it or have it done with rotary. Broaching as I understand it would do a better job job. Dell |
JasonB | 07/12/2019 18:34:00 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Another option is to just mill half a hex into a semi circle of steel which is quite easy to do and solder or even loctite two of them into a hollowed cylinder. |
Dell | 07/12/2019 19:29:37 |
![]() 230 forum posts 44 photos | That would be an option JasonB if I had a mill. |
not done it yet | 07/12/2019 20:51:49 |
7517 forum posts 20 photos | Any particular reason it has to be a hexagon? As above, there are hexagon socket sets out there, if a square hole is out of the question. I used to have a socket set with a hexagon driver, even - probably 1/2” across the flats, though. |
John Haine | 08/12/2019 07:42:20 |
5563 forum posts 322 photos | |
Dell | 08/12/2019 08:58:56 |
![]() 230 forum posts 44 photos | Posted by not done it yet on 07/12/2019 20:51:49:
Any particular reason it has to be a hexagon? As above, there are hexagon socket sets out there, if a square hole is out of the question. I used to have a socket set with a hexagon driver, even - probably 1/2” across the flats, though. The reason it has to be hex is that the spring let down arbor is hexagon and I need to be able to change to the arbor that fits the square of whatever mainspring barrel I am removing the spring from, the picture in first post is only one of six and each end of each one has a square hole to fit different clock barrel arbors. Dell |
Tim Stevens | 08/12/2019 11:24:00 |
![]() 1779 forum posts 1 photos | It would help if we could see what the 'Let down arbour' actually looks like. There are often alternative ways to solve problems which only come to light when the whole system is clear. For instance, why does the 'arbour' need a hexagon spindle? Could an alternative work just as well (eg square)? And is the 11mm dimension critical, or might 7/16" do just as well? (7/16" = 11.11mm)? Cheers, Tim Edited By Tim Stevens on 08/12/2019 11:24:56 |
Pete Rimmer | 08/12/2019 11:31:35 |
1486 forum posts 105 photos | EDITED: If you made a cap for the non-cutting end of the broach with a small bearing in it. Put the part in the lathe chuck then dialled in some off-set on the tailstock you could probably push it through using an old dead centre in the tailstock. Edited By Pete Rimmer on 08/12/2019 11:35:40 |
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