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shaper machine unknown accessory

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Jordi Tomas01/04/2019 10:04:31
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8 forum posts
12 photos

I got a table set whith different kind of machines few weeks ago, and I am only interested in the drill and the shaper

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The shaper is ok. I only had to change tractor gear of 12 teeth. I have cleaned deeply and painted it.

It is like my worshop jewel. I hope you like it. It seems that could be a copy or done inspired in the Rhodes shaper models.

It has the particularity of having a gearbox that probably comes from an ancient motorbike.

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In this picture I was testing the gearbox adjustement.

índex.jpg

There is an accessory that I don't know what is it for, thus a piece is missing. I marked this in red in the picture. With partions of 0.1 mm, are there anybody who can tell me what is it for?

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detail

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Plasma01/04/2019 11:19:43
443 forum posts
1 photos

Wow that looks like one hell of a tool station!!

I have a Rhodes shaper awaiting renovation, it has a vertical attachment to turn it into a slotting machine, very neat.

I'm not sure about the item you have asked about, isvit fitted to the shaper somewhere? Are you sure its for the shaper?

Doesn't look like it lives on the dovetail slide in the picture with the arrow on.

A nice machine though.

Rod Ashton01/04/2019 12:20:34
344 forum posts
12 photos

Can it adjust the fall back of the clapper box?

If so it could adjust either the clearance angle on the tool by slanting the clapper forward. Or by the same method finely adjust the the fallback to give an extremely fine Z axis height adjustment. Just thinking out loud!!

IanT01/04/2019 13:04:10
2147 forum posts
222 photos

If it is clearly designed to fit where your photo shows Jordi - then all I can think of is that it's a way of setting the ram travel to repeatable fine limits without moving it over the work. Presumably you could set it and (probably) with a spacer set the travel within required limits - required for example when shaping within a slot.

I do this "by eye" and have never needed anything like this - but there may well be some other explanation...

Regards,

IanT

John Olsen01/04/2019 15:04:03
1294 forum posts
108 photos
1 articles

It looks to me like the leadscrew from a lathe cross slide or compound table. The right angle pin at the end would go in a hole in the slide, so that the slide is pulled back and forth when the handle is turned, but the alignment between the screw part and the slide is not too critical. It doesn't look like anything I have seen on a shaper before.

The shaper itself looks like a good machine, and the vice looks like just the bee knees! The gearbox does indeed seem to be ex motorcycle, possibly replacing a stepped pulley for a belt drive. My Dad once used one from a two stroke motorcycle for a drill press, cutting away the engine part first.

John

Jordi Tomas03/04/2019 08:54:09
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8 forum posts
12 photos
Posted by Rod Ashton on 01/04/2019 12:20:34:

Can it adjust the fall back of the clapper box?

If so it could adjust either the clearance angle on the tool by slanting the clapper forward. Or by the same method finely adjust the the fallback to give an extremely fine Z axis height adjustment. Just thinking out loud!!

I was looking for in the "hell tool station" accessories a bar to connect with the clapper block and finally I have found an accessori that matches perfectly. I think that it is used to attach the clamping level to fit accurately the crank pink of the slotted link.

Obviously, after that, clamping lever should be removed before turning on again the machine.

Thanks a lot for your clues.

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Nigel Graham 203/04/2019 09:49:02
3293 forum posts
112 photos

I reckon you've guessed right with what that screw drives, in those last photos, Jordi.

Why?

Definitions first:

The sliding mass on the shaper is its Ram.

The Clapper-Box is as it says, the hinged block that holds the tooling.

That add-on does not reach the clapper box, and I can't see why you need to limit its return arc. In fact I'd consider that bad practice. You control the tool geometry by grinding it appropriately.

The only time you lock the clapper-box, is when cutting internal key-ways etc. Those are normally draw-cut, necessitating that locking. One way that avoids modifying the machine is to use a tool-holder fitted with a jacking-screw in an extension above the clapper-box top.

So why this accessory?

First what it is NOT. It is not a stroke-limiter - not on a power-driven machine! That is the task of the crank adjustments and nothing should obstruct the ram acting as the crank stroke and relative position give.

Therefore, I think it was intended to give a fine, short-stroke hand feed. Hard to see where that might be used, but one guess is for engraving scales when you'd want to cut only short, fine grooves under close control.

Neil Wyatt03/04/2019 09:57:12
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19226 forum posts
749 photos
86 articles

Perhaps for hand slotting into blind holes, or making compound gears?

IanT03/04/2019 10:15:55
2147 forum posts
222 photos

On my Atlas - the ram position is adjusted by a crank on top of the ram and there is a separate locking handle. This adjustment simply positions the ram within it's stroke - and as Nigel states - the actual stroke length is set by another adjustment. This shaper doesn't have the crank adjustment but I assume the ram is simply slid around and then locked in place by the lever on top of the ram - a similar but simpler arrangement.

It does look as if the slot in the new part could be intended to fit under the 'locking handle' but then - if tightened - the ram couldn't move - so I don't see any point to doing that if used as a shaper.

However, if a milling head was substituted for the clapper box, then the shaper becomes a mill and this attachment makes perfect sense as a feed screw.

So I think you should look for some kind of milling spindle to fit it in your box of bits Jordi.

Regards,

IanT

 

Edited By IanT on 03/04/2019 10:23:39

Hopper03/04/2019 10:41:26
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7881 forum posts
397 photos
Posted by IanT on 03/04/2019 10:15:55:

On my Atlas - the ram position is adjusted by a crank on top of the ram and there is a separate locking handle. This adjustment simply positions the ram within it's stroke - and as Nigel states - the actual stroke length is set by another adjustment. This shaper doesn't have the crank adjustment but I assume the ram is simply slid around and then locked in place by the lever on top of the ram - a similar but simpler arrangement.

It does look as if the slot in the new part could be intended to fit under the 'locking handle' but then - if tightened - the ram couldn't move - so I don't see any point to doing that if used as a shaper.

However, if a milling head was substituted for the clapper box, then the shaper becomes a mill and this attachment makes perfect sense as a feed screw.

So I think you should look for some kind of milling spindle to fit it in your box of bits Jordi.

Regards,

IanT

Edited By IanT on 03/04/2019 10:23:39

Brilliant!

Nigel Graham 203/04/2019 14:34:13
3293 forum posts
112 photos

Well, you could, and I did think that with my Drummond, making a fitting to take a small milling/ drilling -head - mounted directly on the clapper-box stud and set-screw so without permanently altering the machine itself. It would be quite limited in scope, though.

I still think it more likely it was for hand-control finer than the machine itself can give, very possibly as Neil suggests - working to blind ends - but it would be a very slow way to do any sizeable cutting like gear-teeth and splines. If I was to make a compound gear I think if the design allows, I'd rather screw two separate wheels together face-to-face.

If it is possible I'd ask the machine's previous owner but I am aware this may have come from a dealer, or a bereavement sale.

Jordi Tomas03/04/2019 19:11:47
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8 forum posts
12 photos
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 03/04/2019 09:57:12:

Perhaps for hand slotting into blind holes, or making compound gears?

Sorry, I was so excited to have found the piece that I have uploaded the picture in a wrong position.

Also, I didn't know the proper terminology and maybe I have translated it wrongly.

Now I upload new pictures and I hope it is more understandable.

I slacken the crank pink.

reduida1.jpg

I put the accessory founded (1 in red) and slacken the ram locking handle (2 in red)

I turn the ajust wheel (3) in a precise measurement.

reduida2.jpg

After turned the wheel 3 of the previous picture, the crank pink has moved, so that it will change the final route.

reduida3.jpg

Finally, I tighten again the crank pink (and remove the accessory before turning on the engine).

Thanks for being so patient

John Reese04/04/2019 01:55:35
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1071 forum posts

You surely would need to remove it before starting the shaper.

Hopper04/04/2019 02:29:21
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7881 forum posts
397 photos

Hmmm. Raises two questions to me:

1. Why would you need to adjust the stroke of a shaper to such precise amounts? Usually you need to set the stroke to the length of the job plus a generous but not precise amount to allow the clapper box to function, and to ensure the cutting is done mid-stroke at a reasonable cutting speed.

2. Why did the maker not make the attachment with a quick detachment link so you don't have to put the whole mechanism on and then take it off again after adjusting the stroke, ie for every new job?

I still favour IanT's idea above that it is precision adjustment for using a milling head on the shaper, or something like that.

If only these old machines could talk!

John Olsen04/04/2019 04:54:05
1294 forum posts
108 photos
1 articles

I think Jordi has it right, it is for adjusting the stroke. I will also guess that it is not a manufacturers accessory, but something that has been made by a former owner. It is not that a precise adjustment of the stroke is all that important, it is that it can take a bit of to and fro to get the stroke anything like, and while you are doing it your hands are inside the machine, just waiting for someone to bump the power switch and put you in a world of pain.

Some shapers are easy to adjust...my 18 inch Alba has the screw and bevel gears inside the bull wheel, so it can all be done from the operators side. My 6 inch Ammco does not, but it is a small machine, and it is easy to get the position right, you get the slotted arm in the vertical position and the crank pin will slide up and down easily and stay in the right position while you lock it up. My 10 inch Alba has the same arrangement, but it is not so easy to get it adjusted to a good position, it fights a bit and the rather small door opening gets in the way. So it is easy to see that someone might have decided that a more sophisticated way of adjusting the stroke was desirable.

John

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