Reliance drill grinding attachment.

Today I recieved a Reliance drill grinding attachment. Unfortunately it didn't come with instructions. I have had a little play with it this evening but as yet have not mounted it to the bench.

Having done a google search I can not find any info that is specific to the use of the Reliance attachment.

Would anybody have or can point me in the direction of the instructions that originally came with the attachment.

Thanks,

Steve.

This thread on the Spiralux grinding device might be of help - **LINK**

Harold Hall has instructions on his web site.

Paul

**LINK**

Steve Message me with an email address and I'll send you a scan of mine.

Pretty tatty, but readable

Bill

Thanks Robbo and Paul for the links. They have given me a general idea.

Bill you have a PM.

I actually bought the attachment on a whim. It was very cheap and I have always been intrigued by them.

I've been grinding drills by hand since showed how by my apprentice training instructor 33 years ago. If the results I get with the attachment are not a massive improvement or if I find it to much of a fiddle to use it will get relegated to a draw never to see the light of day ever again.

Thanks again,

Steve.

Steve, check your emails, there should be a couple of scanned jpgs awaiting you

Bill

I bought one off a well known auction site, it was actually broken but was able to repair it. Could not get on with it, and also prefer freehand! Many years ago I was taught to sharpen shears, scissors knives and drill etc by a itinernterant knife sharpener, who called once a week at the shop and did whatever had come in. He did appear on 'What's my Line' at the time!

Steve, I used one some years ago and found it ticked all the boxes, equal length + equal angle cutting edges and backed off sufficiently to provide clearance.
Sold it on when I bought a Quorn which will do the same thing.

Emgee

With instruction in hand, off to the workshop I go!

I will keep you all posted with the results.

Steve.

A 'real' Reliance kit works very well for someone like me who can't grind tist drills by hand with any accuracy.
Does though take a while to get familiar with it and it's essential to have a copy of, and to follow, the original instructions - which "Peak4" is copying 4U.
However the full instructions have been posted here (scroll down to the bottom):-

**LINK**

I'd recommend that you install it on a flat surface and screw a length of ms alongside so you can slide the unit accurately towards and away from the wheel. At risk of inviting major criticism, I use the side of the wheel since only a few thou need to be removed to sharpen the drill.
(The cheap alloy sharpener, purchased before the Relaince, was dispatched to the bin)

Hi Fowlers fury,

Thanks for the link. That is the same set of instructions that Bill kindly sent me.

I had no idea that there were 3 sizes available. Mine is the smallest of the 3.

Thanks for the tip about the fence. I will also be using the side of the wheel. Something I was taught never to do but what goes on in my workshop stays in my workshop.

I have sent you a PM

Eric

Narrow cup wheel seems to work best with all forms of swing across the wheel jig. The mathematics of the various various geometrical approximations assume the actual grinding face passing over the wheel is of zero width. Impossible in the real world but having the drill leave the active grinding area at exactly the same radius is the practical equivalent thereof.

This condition is met when grinding off the side of a grinding wheel if the side is perfectly flat and perfectly aligned at 90° to the swinging drill carrier arm when it is in its central position. Using the wheel must inevitably put some dish, however minor, in the drill sharpening area so the condition must eventually fail. How much dish is needed before the point geometry becomes unsatisfactory is a topic that never seems to be addressed.

Alignment of jig to wheel also seems to be somewhat glossed over. My Picador sits on a fabricated U section guide under the base to get the height right and constrain movement to the correct axis. I imagine the General, Spiralux and other versions having a tilted pivot are sensitive to the alignment of the pivot relative to the wheel face but the subject is pretty much ignored in the instructions.

Clive.

Edited By Clive Foster on 07/08/2018 10:02:59

Edited By Clive Foster on 07/08/2018 10:03:24

Re: Clive Foster's posting, whilst not professing much (if any) knowledge of the finer points of drill geometry, I fully endorse all his comments about "perfectly flat and perfectly aligned at 90° to the......etc".
For me, recognising such came from early failures to grind drills accurately with the Reliance jig.
As recommended to "fishy-steve", a means to keep alignment of the Reliance at 90° to the wheel is essential.
In the image below, I raised the diamond wheel so that drill points were close as possible to its centre line. This was done with a ms block which also provides the guide for in & out movement of the jig. Drill sharpening now seems accurate and although noting the "don't use a diamond wheel with HSS", I'm not aware of any decrement in HSS drill performance. I have though found it important to follow the Reliance instructions with respect to drill 'overhang' vs. its diameter.
(I gave up trying to get 4-facet drill points on the Quorn - far too much time spent & seldom achieving a central point of intersection).

Having now had a play with the jig my first impressions of it are very good.

A couple of issues though.

Firstly, having made sure that the jig and the face of the wheel are at 90 degrees to each other, I've found that the included angle of the cutting edges is 123 degrees. Not the 118 degrees I was expecting.

Secondly, the attachment is advertised as being able to grind drills down to 1/8 diameter. I've found that when grinding standard jobber drills below 3/16 diameter the drill bit is to short to use the back stop as supplied. I have though, with a spacer between the drill and stop, managed to grind down to 1/8 diameter.

Neither of these issues are show stoppers though.

Anybody else have the same issues?

Man or machine?

Edited By fishy-steve on 07/08/2018 20:53:23

Edited By fishy-steve on 07/08/2018 20:54:47

I bought the Tormek drill grinder after failing with other similar Reliance grinders. Have to say it's fantastic

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tormek-DBS-22-Drill-Bit-Sharpener-950970-Fits-All-Tormeks-DBS22-RDGTools/351767878514?epid=2256200570&hash=item51e6ffdb72:g:dJsAAOSwMNxXbUGO

Re: your 2 queries about the Reliance.
(1) You shouldn't need any spacer for shorter drills. Take off the end stop and replace it so the triangular part now points forward, to lay along the groove as below:-

(2) Looking at the images of your 2 drills, it doesn't appear there's enough back-off from the cutting edges. As there's no adjustment on the jig for the angle ~ are following the Reliance instructions for overhang vs. diameter? Also you must pull the drill carrier back against the stop i.e. towards you with the lip aligned vertically as described. Then advance the whole jig up to the wheel so it's just touching. Release the little knurled screw and push back the drill carrier to traverse the wheel. Then of course advance the "cut" with the bottom screw after slackening the others before retightening.

In the above image, there's a new Dormer 10mm drill against the wheel. You might just about be able to see the angle is correct.

Edit: I ought to have paid more attention to your post and images. I now see you have a smaller Reliance jig and therefore the comments above may not be applicable. IF you ever spot a larger size Reliance for sale,
snap it up !!

Edited By Fowlers Fury on 07/08/2018 22:51:48

My jig is the number 1 and it does differ from yours. It doesn't have the triangular shaped stop.

The angle that the pictures were taken at does make the relief look shallower than it is. Although I would agree that the drill on the right could be relieved more. The drill on the left I ground free hand. Also the drill on the left is 13mm the one on the right 14mm so is slightly bigger than the 1/2 maximum size that the jig is designed for. I think the relief could be improved if I altered the 3X overhang slightly.

If I ever come across a number 2 jig I will definitely buy it.

Steve.

"It doesn't have the triangular shaped stop."
Not querying that and sorry for any confusion. It was just that your picture at first sight appeared to show the same type of end-stop as mine but closer examination then revealed the differences - hence the edit.
Would it be worth drilling your end-stop for a silver steel rod, secured by a screw somehow? I''ve considered doing that on mine when sharpening the ends of short centre drills, thus avoiding an imprecise loose "spacer" in the jig.