By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Forum House Ad Zone

Glass-scales-ZX45-RF45 clone

install of glass scales Y axis

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Neil Lickfold30/04/2018 14:59:54
1025 forum posts
204 photos

I installed the glass scales on the X and Y axis.

y-axis-mounted.jpgI did the Y axis 1st. I put a spring clamp on the read head to the ali frame to keep it true to the spacer shims. Attached the supplied Ali bracket to the underneath side of the read head. With the slide covers removed, moved the Y all the way to the column. Used a set of button spacers to get the approx distance from the bottom of the bracket to the casting , with about a 1.5mm gap or so. The checked the scale for parallel. So the Y axis can move with the read head as well due to the clearance gap. Using 1 indicator on the top surface and another on the outside of the scale makes for short work to align. After establishing the correct space size, then made some from Ali bar, but with 1 drilled 5mm as a pivot reference end, front mount, and then drilled the back one with a 5.5 clearance hole in-case of any discrepancies on the hole centres. This becomes the dummy run in mounting the read head support as well. Then drill and tap into the casting base 2 X M5 . In my case I turned a pin that was close in size to the bracket slot, to get a centre punch mark centred on the slots.Rechecked the vertical alignment, and leave the indicator over the back of the scale. ( Reference for reassembly, place the indicator 10mm or so forwards of the cap screw position ) . Now ready for assembly, it is important to remove the securing screws from the supplied spacer shims, but leave the spacer in place, and I used a spring clamp to keep it all together still. Remember to degrease and clean the side of the casting and the back of the mount bracket.I loosened off the back end screw till it was almost undone, removed front screw and spacer.(needed to clean casting and back of mount) .Put a very small amount of wax on the M5 capscrews for the mounting bracket. Get some epoxy putty , so cut off about 20mm length,and knead till it is all uniform and starts to get quite pliable like plasticine. Made 2 oval loops with the putty and put then around the M5 screw tapped holes where the mount is to go. Place the front spacer into place and just start the M5 screw. Now the juggle. Start the 2 M5 screws with the washers on, then carefully press against the bracket towards the fitted position. Do up the slack of the 2 mount bracket screws, also do up the slack of the front and rear fixing screws of the scale. The read head should be centred to the scale laterally all the time. This is VERY IMPORTANT. The fixed ends should be done up nearly tight and just the slack taken on the read head. Remove the spring clamp and the test the alignment. The reference indicator should be on zero or very close to it, and in my case was less than 0.04mm of total error front to back and side to side. I use one hand to turn the Y axis handle, and the other to help support the read head bracket assembly. The putty goes off quite quickly and is reasonably firmish. At any rate, did not want any unwanted movement. There is drag due to the spacers still being in place. I did not want to remove them early and then find I could not get them back in easily. It was correct on the 1st pass so we had beginners luck. I tightened the scale holding screws tight, rechecked for alignment. Let is sit for 1 hour to cure. Tightened the bracket screws a little more. Removed the spacer shims and all is good. The Y axis scale covers will get connected onto the outer M5 screw positions with a piece of angle Ali angle.The 2 inner M5 screws will not be disturbed.

y-reader-support-plate.jpg

Neil Lickfold30/04/2018 15:10:22
1025 forum posts
204 photos

Install of the X axis.

Onto the X and the choices.

I decided on the front mount so that I did not reduce the total Y axis movement. I also wanted to retain the use of the X axis stops, (Big Thanks to Dean Clarke 2 for that hint and advice), and the newly made central centre gib lock. I also want to be able to remove service the gib screws as well without removing the scale. Although I was intending to mount it all at one end, I did not like the end of the scale being outside the table length. While I was making the tapered nut for the scale, made some extras as stop limiters to prevent the bed from exposing the lube grooves that were added. It has limited the Y axis from the front due to the handle length. The scale can not be read all the way out either, but that is why it has digi's. So an extension will be made down the track as it has about 190mm of Y travel instead of the 235 actual that it did have with no rear bellows. With bellows it is down to 175mm of comfortable movement. To make the numbers easy, I made some spacers from 20mm free cutting Al bar stock, at 1.25 inches long,(31.75mm) . This give enough room for the ring spanner and fingers to move the stops etc. Made new Gid stops from hex head Set screws, and tapered the ends 45deg. Hindsight is I will make some brass pushers with a tapered end a little down the track. New holes needed to be added next to the existing centre stop plate. I was going to use it, but thought if the stop plate moved for what ever reason, then the read head will be moved or possibly get damaged. Hindsight says I should have made the read head mount screws further apart, and would make serving and removal of the scale a lot easier. The spacers are necked down to fit between the large washers holding in place the T nut. When checked, it dialled in the 1st time. Just luck I think. The spacer assembly from the cross table to the read head is made so that it has some spacer shims to get the correct lateral position of the scale. It also allows for clearance to move the assembly back and forth for alignment testing. The X axis scale covers will get connected onto the outer T nut screw positions.
Hope this may help someone else down the track that is looking at installing some form of DRO.

X axis read head mount and bracket assembly

x-read-head-mount.jpg

X axis Left Hand end support and mounting T nut.

x-axis-scale-mount.jpg

Lastly my junk catcher while making the brackets and other pieces as it went along. Now thinking of making something more user friendly and and a bit easier on the eyes as well.

concept-chip-control.jpg

Neil

David George 130/04/2018 20:42:27
avatar
2110 forum posts
565 photos

Hi Nick Nice clean professional looking job. What DRO unit fid you fit.

David

Neil Lickfold30/04/2018 20:56:15
1025 forum posts
204 photos

I used the MTech-3 DRO that came with the mill but never installed. I was going to put the Z scale on the quill, but may instead get a longer one for the column instead. The mag tape one seems fine for now for most things that I will be making. It is from here http://www.thedrostore.com/ it is the Promo - 3i set.

mtech-3-dro.jpg

The only thing I wish about it is ,if the angle reading was in decimal degrees and stead of minutes and seconds.

I do like the secondary screen and the calc functions etc. It is great using it to make the rest of the parts etc. Well worth the time to install as well.

Neil

Paul Lousick01/05/2018 02:47:30
2276 forum posts
801 photos

My installation of scales on a RF-45 clone.

dro.jpg

Y-axis scale mounted at the rear of the table leaving the front clear to use the existing travel stops.

Z-axis scale is fitted to a specially built support at the side of the head. The scale is attached to a guided shaft which is connected to the rear of the clamp fixture at the base of the quill.

A 4th scale is to be fitted to the column to measure the movement of the mill head. I have a 3-axis Easson DRO and intend to swop between the quill read-out and the column read-out with a computer monitor switch. (have not tried this as yet).

LED lights work well to illuminate the work area.

Paul.

 

Edited By Paul Lousick on 01/05/2018 02:51:16

David Taylor01/05/2018 06:29:38
avatar
144 forum posts
39 photos

@Paul Lousick - I couldn't figure out where to put the Z scale on mine. I have a big motor terminal block with two capacitors in the way where you have put yours. The mill is in bits now with the terminal block off so I'll have a look and see if I can relocate it.

Where are the terminals and capacitors on your mill?

mgnbuk01/05/2018 07:46:49
1394 forum posts
103 photos

Y-axis scale mounted at the rear of the table leaving the front clear

In normal industrial parlance, that is the X axis (table left-right movement) - the Y axis is the table front-back movement.

Nice installation, with the table scale in the "optimum" position nearest the fixed dovetail (opposite side to the gib strip) . I am currently looking at a 3 axis DRO for my FB2 clone & it oden't look like I have enough room to put the scale at the back of the table without restricting an already short (140mm) Y axis travel.

Nigel B

Paul Lousick01/05/2018 10:35:30
2276 forum posts
801 photos

Nigel, Typo mistake ('Old timers' disease problem ).

Hi David, I must haver a different motor on my mill. No external capacitors.

Paul.

dro 7.jpg

Edited By Paul Lousick on 01/05/2018 10:52:14

Neil Lickfold01/05/2018 13:42:30
1025 forum posts
204 photos

I found in the shed today a 3phase 220V 1.5 kw motor. So latter I will change the single out for the 3ph and run a VFD to get other speed ranges and to get more RPM on the top end. The other option is to get the 2KW 2900 rpm 220 V 3ph motor and then run it at 100% to a reduced rpm limit, instead of 100% and then going to 85hz on the 1450 rpm motor. On my machine the LH side where I fitted the Y axis DRO is the non gib side. On the front however, it is on the gib side. I don't yet have a good picture showing the access to the stops or the gib locks. On the same side as the handle to lift the column, I have coming a digital scale like what I have put on the quill. So when lifting etc, I will have a reference. I am not sure apart from convenience the advantages of the DRO of the quill on the box.

Out of curiosity, what have people done to get the column square to the run of the table in the for and aft plane? Mine is out by about 0.03 mm to 0.04 mm over the 129 mm quill range.

What oil do people find is best for the gear box head on these Mill? What will help to keep it quiet?

Thanks, Neil

David Taylor02/05/2018 05:48:07
avatar
144 forum posts
39 photos
Posted by Paul Lousick on 01/05/2018 10:35:30:

Hi David, I must haver a different motor on my mill. No external capacitors.

You have exactly the same terminal box as me but yours is attached to the motor. I don't think mine was, because I could not get the Z scale to fit on either side of the gearbox.

Thanks for the photo, when I get mine back together I'll see if I can do it like you did.

Regards, David.

Jon03/05/2018 23:29:46
1001 forum posts
49 photos

You will have problems if run the Luxs faster than they come 1250rpm.
If you go back some years about 14 there was a US reseller modifying these heads, quills and spindle to accept bigger better beefier bearings that then could handle 2500rpm.
Has happened a few times on mine even with the best SKF bearings fitted they get hot. Extended use may see spindle slow down - its seizing and thats only at 1250rpm.

Quite easy to get a C type glass scale on either side of the head, done it 13 yrs ago positioned near where Pauls is, credit where its due. Also needs the pin sizing in to reduce quill rotation.
Needs a strip down twice a year to clean up the dust on the glass.
Spindle locks in same place as mine, pushes quill to the right and back when tightened up.

Hydraulic 68 plenty good enough from Smith and Allen about £17 delivered for 5 ltrs, changed mine for sealed SKF bearings 8 yrs ago, the oil dont froth like the stuff that comes with it and if its good enough for Harrison head stocks its more than good enough for chinese.
Nothing will really quieten them down without sacrificing power. Even if you run a heavy tar like oil its viscosity will change to become much like all other thinner oils when it warms up.

Neil i wouldnt be putting X axis there you cant use any stops, poweer feed (trips 2 and stops) and cant use a rotary table with dividing plates or even use the must have bed locks without socket, extention and bar on tap.

Power feed packed up on mine yesterday mid job didnt want to spend any more on it, as good as scrap 8 yrs ago. Turned 3pm ordered from Goodwin saves me a trip to Brum or Tamworth, delivered by 10.15am next day. Shame could have been £360 put towards something decent now may be able to use it as a knee lift or Y axis motor.

Neil Lickfold04/05/2018 01:39:09
1025 forum posts
204 photos

If I change to socket head screws, I can use a long series T bar hex key, but as is, can just use a ring spanner. I can also add micro switches from the left or right as well if I go the power feed option. From the front the lock screws are below the scale . My rotary table will be on a raised mounting block, so that It can be used anywhere on the table, and not have to have it hanging off to one side. Still got the covers to go.

x-scale-top-view.jpg

access-to-stops.jpg

Only the centre lock can not be accessed from the front, and has to be accessed from the top.

x-read-head-mount.jpg

Neil

Jon06/05/2018 20:07:25
1001 forum posts
49 photos

Missing the point Neil, the dividing plates have to drop down the side of the bed. On mine to clear or be level with table you would have to raise the RT up 2.4" thats over 60mm. You would now run in to the realms of head height max adjustment with literally a chuck on RT, drill chuck and a tank cutter 1 1/4" dia which isnt very long shorter than an 8mm drill flute.

The inside of dividing plates to table is 33.6mm at present pulled out in the T slot.
The trips for the power feed stick out from table 33.5mm+
Will have to bend the bracket in substantially to clear dividing plate and still contact the trips. Other problem will be the positioning of the two trips taking up length having to position to one side of the dro. So will end up that much short on travel the opposite side the trips are fitted.
Just so happens had to replace power feed last week stuck in the middle of a job.

Limited as to where the RT can be positioned on the three T slots, mines using the middle one.

Do like allen bolts bit they fill up of swarf and debris.
I just use a socket and or open ended 19mm for RT and vice left permanently on.
Personally couldnt live without gib strip locks quick to operate with no tools. Changed the standard to those lever type that can be swung 180 degrees just have to watch X axis for fouling dependant where its positioned.

Lastly think your beds shorter than mine and Pauls, i originally had actual 24 1/4" travel. After power feed its down to 21" region.

Neil Lickfold06/05/2018 20:52:25
1025 forum posts
204 photos

Thanks for the explanation Jon. Yes mine is the shorter table, and I have chosen to limit the X travel so the Bed does not go pass the cross slide block edges. But with the full travel, it was 610mm, but the end of the table over travels on the cross slide block. Yes it is about a 60mm spacer that is required. My chuck selection, is a low level self centring 4 jaw, and a regular 4 jaw as well. The 3jaw chucks I have are the standard taller rmodels, and as you point out, can run out of room real fast, I also have a ER40 low level collet chuck .

It is still a work in progress, so some other changes may happen yet.

Neil

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate