Silver soldering.

I am making a handbrake lever for a vintage Bugatti. I need to increase the thickness on the handle end to a particular shape. Can I silver solder both sides of the join and then clamp together and heat to make the joint?

I would normally used Silver solder tape but have run out and cannot find a supplier.

Thanks in advance.

Is foil the same as tape?

If so then CupAlloys sell it.

**LINK**

As a hand-brake 'handle' is presumably not subject to high temperatures, why not 'tin' the parts with soft solder and then sweat them together. Unless it's on an 'edge' - this should make a very strong joint and would be much easier to do.

Regards,

IanT

It needs to be nickel plated afterwards and I not sure if you plate over tin lead ?

Once silver solder has been melted it takes more heat to melt it the second time due to a chemical change in the metal so depending on your heating equipment you may not get it upto temp the second time.

When I have flat areas to solder I put a few punch marks onto one surface and the small burr raised around the punch mark leaves a slight gap that the solder can flow into and will not close under moderate clamp pressure.

This will tell you all you want to know: **LINK**

Capilliary attraction is your friend. Solder it from one side of the joint and when you see the solder appear at the other side you will know it has done the trick.

Russell

And the bit from the link that matters

"Most joints are self-jigging but occasionally components may have to be clamped into position particularly with sheet/sheet joints. Clamping effectively removes the joint gap. Maintain it by centre punching dimples into one of the sheets or place a piece of foil in between"