Home made polishing and deburring machine build

Well here is a thing I just designed My poor NuTool drill press has been holding a wire wheel for longer than it has been holding drill bits.

The specification is to hold 10" wheels and spin em at 3550 RPM. The motor is a 0.75kw 3 phase job, I got an inverter for £25 so it will end up being cheaper than a 1ph motor.

The column is 100x100x5 box section and the rest of the frame made up of 20x20x2 with some 50x6 strips for certain mounting points. Also going to make 3 leveling feet to keep everything stable.

The only stock parts will end up being the motor and pillow blocks.

Gonna be a bit of a while before I get the chance to turn the pulleys and spindle. Inverter hasn't arrived and I am still searching to see if I can get a motor for better than £64. But might do some welding of the frame later today.

Expect it to spit out pieces of wire. You may need more metal around it. Don't forget a workpiece support. Specs for a commercial version are here.

**LINK**

This uses wheels that are Ø250 x 60 so your specification may be a little underpowered. Do you have a wheel identified and does it have a max rpm on it?

Martin C

Drills are primarily designed for axial loads, so good to stop using it with a wire wheel!

At the same time, bench grinders are available cheaply (especially second hand if you know what you are doing). I can understand making a stand, but not a grinder from scratch. You may find it difficult to source 250mm diameter wheels with that speed rating. If they are, they will be a touch pricey, I would guess?

Was gonna use these, seemed the best value. Couldn't find anyone else who didn't want double that. At 3600RPM the machine should be in its limits but I can slow down with the inverter if it sheds wires too fast. With 29mm rather than 60mm face. Granted that still does put me a bit below standard.

Didn't think to add rests, generally used to polishing freehand. Brief trip back to solidworks required I think. Might even add proper tool sharpening to the list of things for it to do.

I think my cheapo drill press just has ball bearings in it so in probably is actually more suited to wire wheeling than drilling with an axial force. :P Its one of the better taiwanese drills but on the to buy or to make list is a nicer small drill press.

Been on the look out but appear to be in a bit of a second hand bench grinder drought atm. Motor, inverter and bearings will take me to £100. The rest I have hanging about rusting in the yard. In the past my cheaper grinders have got alarmingly hot after continuous use so a continuous rated motor appeals too.

Better put some legs out back and to the right as well, otherwise it could easily tip if knocked either way.

Make your guards sturdy if wire wheels are planned to be used.

To run a 250 mm/10" wire wheel, you probably want 1.5Kw, a wire wheel puts a fair old load on things, but if you want 3550rpm I suppose the inverter can take it up to there, 60Hz will give you 3450rpm.

A wire wheel needs a guard, they fire off bits of wire that stick into the front of your overalls. You'll need to bolt it to the floor, that thing is well top heavy without even pushing work into it.

Ian S C

2nd that will need much higher kw motor than a 0.75kw from past experience.

Do have a Viceroy pedestal grinder, came 3ph with a 1400 rpm ish 1hp motor, slightest touch with 10" mops fitted they slowed. Duly fitted with a 3000rpm 3hp 1ph running in reverse, just hang on sparks will fly jobs just skate off rather than bounce off 4 walls and ceiling.
Saving for rainy day its been outside since 1998, doubt would use again.

Bench grinders get expensive above 3/4hp motor, mines just packed up. Even this struggled with 6" thin 1" wide hard mops, soft 2" wide mops forget it.

Finished the spindle and flanges just in time before I lost access to the workshop I was using. Impulse bought a CJ18A but its not gonna be as fun as the Colchester Master 3250.

The flanges/cups/washers are 150mm diameter, 16mm wide. Might have gone slightly very over kill with their size. Still need to make the space from the nut to them.