John Lucas 5 | 12/12/2015 21:04:54 |
5 forum posts | What is recommended for a clear finish on a steel model? Something to stop corrosion from modest handling but not look like a heavy lacquer. I'm finishing with 800 or 1000 grit to leave a satin surface with some details polished. Thanks |
Clive Hartland | 12/12/2015 21:44:04 |
![]() 2929 forum posts 41 photos | There is a clear lacquer that is used to seal PC boards, its a spray can and I am sure its acrylic. I have found this to be good for surface covering. Alternatively you can use Cellulose clear lacquer, 'Airplane dope'. I have had good results with both on steel and brass. Clive |
steve de24 | 12/12/2015 22:41:33 |
71 forum posts | John, clockmakers use Horolacq. I think it's available in clear. Steve
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Andrew Entwistle | 12/12/2015 23:30:30 |
![]() 120 forum posts 218 photos | I use Rustins metal lacquer for keeping a bare metal appearance but protecting from rust. It goes on like water without leaving brush strokes but has kept anything lacquered in the cellar rust free for more than three years now. Andrew. |
Ian S C | 13/12/2015 10:37:47 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | It's not that hard wearing, but hair spray works. Ian S C |
Bob Unitt 1 | 14/12/2015 16:12:14 |
![]() 323 forum posts 35 photos | Posted by Andrew Entwistle on 12/12/2015 23:30:30:
I use Rustins metal lacquer for keeping a bare metal appearance but protecting from rust. It goes on like water without leaving brush strokes but has kept anything lacquered in the cellar rust free for more than three years now. Andrew. I'll second this - I made a gunmetal and steel medieval mortar about 6 years ago, both metals showing signs of corrosion after a few weeks on the mantlepiece. I cleaned it up again and coated it with Rustin's Metal Lacquer, since when it's sat on that same mantlepiece, sometimes being picked up for examination by sweaty hands, and it still looks like it did the day it was lacquered.
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