lee hawkins 1 | 15/10/2015 07:37:00 |
111 forum posts | Hello I do have an some sort of Idea how I could do this, but not sure it's the right way, or someone come up with or knows of a better way I have got a lathe head stock casting, but will be fitting my own h/t steel shaft, 1'' Dia , the Bearings I am fitting are Taper roller bearings, the shaft does not have threads to fit locking rings/nuts , Without me having to cut threads, How can I go about Preloading the taper roller bearings lee |
Ady1 | 15/10/2015 10:42:59 |
![]() 6137 forum posts 893 photos | I'm intruiged Got any pictures please? |
Gordon W | 15/10/2015 11:42:25 |
2011 forum posts | If you don't need a hole thru' the middle of shaft you could just tap the end and use washer and screw or stud and nut, with locking device. For a thru' hole type (highly recommended) a short sleeve on the outside of shaft, with grub screw clamping, and maybe 3 or 4 tapped holes to load the bearings. |
Bazyle | 15/10/2015 12:34:02 |
![]() 6956 forum posts 229 photos | Depending on size a spring or Belleville washer. You would need a well fitting collar to press against and several grub screws. |
Ian P | 15/10/2015 12:48:00 |
![]() 2747 forum posts 123 photos | If this is a conventional arrangement with outer race of the bearings in the headstock casting and the inner races on the shaft then presumably the shaft and the bearing housings collars, shoulders of some sort for the races. If you are making the shaft why not cut thread on it? Shims are an excellent alternative if you have to use circlips but it would be pretty tricky to assemble. How are the shaft and bearings assembled into the headstock anyway? Ian P |
Roderick Jenkins | 15/10/2015 13:31:54 |
![]() 2376 forum posts 800 photos | From very informative discussions I have had recently (thank you Ketan!) regarding a similar set up, very little pre-load is necessary. Just enough to prevent end float. HTH Rod |
norman valentine | 15/10/2015 14:09:56 |
280 forum posts 40 photos | I had exactly the same situation with the milling machine that I built. What I did was to buy a taperlock pulley and drill and tap four holes through the bush, I then used grub screws to bear onto the rim of the bearing. It works perfectly. The attached photo shows how it appears, I machined the groove on |
Ady1 | 15/10/2015 14:21:14 |
![]() 6137 forum posts 893 photos | The unimat sl uses a shaped washer for preloading but they still have a thread at the back to make adjustment simple |
lee hawkins 1 | 16/10/2015 07:09:42 |
111 forum posts | Brilliant! Thanks for all the advice, Like I did say, I had a good idea how to do it, my thoughts were going the same way as Gordon w' mentions , it's good to run it past other people with the same interest and experience, makes me feel better Rod, thanks for posting, Ketan' mention how little preload is needed, I can understand that, but you still got to get preload on those bearings Norman, I like the milling machine, good bit of ally in there Kind Regards lee Edited By lee hawkins 1 on 16/10/2015 07:10:30 |
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