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Scale model Economy hit & miss engine builders wanted

I need to get my engine running

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Charles 201013/10/2010 20:12:47
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Thanks for the info ...
 
Sound like do the holes first and then use that to mount onto round block and hold in a chuck or may be  make up spacers to bolt to a face plate !!!
 
Thanks for the input Jason.
JasonB13/10/2010 20:15:26
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Sq block is easier than round as you can just turn it 90deg in the machine vice, round block would take a bit more effort to line up.
 
J
Charles 201013/10/2010 20:48:16
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Good thinking !!!!
Andrew Johnston14/10/2010 12:11:55
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Charles,
 
I remember mounting the cylinder head on a piece of aluminium angle, for use in the 4 jaw chuck on the lathe. This allowed machining of the spigot that fits in the cylinder. Once this is done, the head can then be mounted in the vertical mill, with the DRO zero'd at the centre. Then all the flat surfaces can be machined and the holes drilled.
 
I'll have a go at trying to find the jig later today. If I do find it, I'll post a picture of it.
 
Regards,
 
Andrew
Charles 201014/10/2010 12:43:00
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Thank you Andrew ..
 
That will be the way forward...
 
I hope you can find the photo ..
 
Regards Charles
Andrew Johnston14/10/2010 18:44:22
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Hi Charles,
 
I've eventually found the jig, hiding behind the aluminium offcuts bin. Two photos have been added to my 'Economy' album. One is of the jig and the other shows how the cylinder head was mounted. The inlet and exhaust port faces were cleaned up and tapped M6 before mounting. As you have no doubt realised the thread callout of 1/2" BSP is wrong. I used M12 instead.
 
Regards,
 
Andrew
JasonB14/10/2010 20:02:13
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Any specific reason for going with M12 Andrew? I would have thought 1/4BSP a better option as the carb seems to be attached to the head with a standard street elbow looking at the pic on Engineers Emporium, can't quite see the exhaust but looks liek a nipple and malable iron elbow, again readily available in 1/4" BSP.
 
Jason
Andrew Johnston14/10/2010 22:51:37
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Hi Jason,
 
I chose M12 as I already had all the necessary taps and dies and didn't, at the time, have any BSP threading equipment. I am not sticking exactly to the design in this area, so the availability of off-the-shelf elbows is of less concern to me than it might be to other makers.
 
Regards,
 
Andrew
John Wood115/10/2010 16:02:51
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Yes, 1/4 BSP is what LA Services use to fit standard iron elbows which is also what they use on theirs - and mine.
 
Charles, lots of gen on the way to you, see separate e-mail.
 
Luck to all
 
John
Charles 201016/10/2010 09:08:04
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Thans John I look forward to seeing the other email soon.
 
It was nice to be ale to see a completed engine at the show yesterday and to take a lot of photos and also one being put together...
Charles 201016/10/2010 22:26:59
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Is spring steel necessary for two parts in the Economy Engine or has any one used anything else. ??
If spring steel is needed where does one obtain it and secondly how does one cut it???
 
Regards Charles
Andrew Johnston17/10/2010 10:26:21
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I haven't made those bits yet, but it didn't occur to me to make them from anything but spring steel.
 
I bought my spring steel from Folkestone Engineering Supplies. It comes annealed, so the issue is not how to cut it, but how to harden and temper. Not a problem for me as I have an electric heat treatment furnace. I don't suppose the hardening and tempering is that critical, so could be done by other means.
 
Regards,
 
Andrew
Charles 201018/10/2010 20:09:44
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I too have a small kiln that will reach the 820C  and then quench in oil and then heat to 350C and hold for 2 hours.
 
I asve been able to find the product on that company's web site so will get mine from there too.
 
I am now also thinking about the timber supports for the engine has anyone any ideas ??
JasonB18/10/2010 20:27:49
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I made my skids from maple, beech would also be suitable
 


 
 

Edited By JasonB on 18/10/2010 20:28:52

Charles 201018/10/2010 20:43:45
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I wonder what the dimensions of the timbers are I guess about 38mm x 60mm
 
I like the cross members to give strength
 
Nice see such a fine picture too.
 
Regards Charles

Edited By Charles 2010 on 18/10/2010 20:44:42

JasonB18/10/2010 20:54:26
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Much smaller than that, the model has 7" flywheels and the timber is 20x26 finish size, for your slightly bigger engine something like 25x30 would look OK.
 
Have a look at some of the sites with photos of full size engines and base your design on that, wheeled trolly would look good The Florida Freewheelers photos here are a good place to start
 
Jason
Charles 201018/10/2010 21:03:10
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Thanks for the info Jason
 
I will look at various site and then decided but the 25x30 sound very good ...
 
Regards Charles
Andrew Johnston18/10/2010 21:44:57
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I'm planning to mount my engine on a piece of jig plate, along with a separate fuel tank and ignition system. There should be room on the plate to mount something for the engine to drive, if I felt so inclined.
 
Regards,
 
Andrew
Charles 201023/10/2010 00:02:51
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Has anyone considered using a Helicoil in association with the spark plug to eliminate ware on the thread in the  Aluminium casting?
 
The idea was given to me by my car repair mechanic who thinks that a spark plug in aluminium is just asking for trouble ...
 
 
 
Ian S C23/10/2010 12:31:30
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A bronze Helicoil would be best to aid heat conduction, perhaps not important in this case, but someone here in NZ put a stainless helicoil in thr engine of his ultralight aircraft, the spark plug over heated and the engine failed causing an emergency landing to be made writing off the aircraft. Ian S C
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